New kid on the block
Hey everyone, yesterday I made the decision to pull the trigger on an N/A 1988 s4 FC. given its condition, I'm going to need to perform a rebuild on it to start things off. Everyone on here is probably more experienced than me (especially with rotaries) so I came here for advice along the way. I've done as much of the preemptive background work as I can, but I'll probably need lots of help along the way.
thanks in advance guys. |
Welcome to the forum!! Would love to see pictures of the car! What part of Ohio are you from?
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
(Post 12520157)
Welcome to the forum!! Would love to see pictures of the car! What part of Ohio are you from?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e30918157.jpeg |
Welcome to the club. The good news is that you are starting out with perhaps the more straightforward and easy to understand RX7 of all. Series 4 (86-88) n/a are often overshadowed by their fancier S5 siblings, but they have one major advantage. S5 and later have a tendency to go into Limp Mode if the Oil Metering Pump has a bad day. This can also take the ECU out with it. Series 4 is a purely mechanical pump, opened and closed by a rod connected to the throttle body.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too. |
Originally Posted by Akagis_white_comet
(Post 12520161)
Welcome to the club. The good news is that you are starting out with perhaps the more straightforward and easy to understand RX7 of all. Series 4 (86-88) n/a are often overshadowed by their fancier S5 siblings, but they have one major advantage. S5 and later have a tendency to go into Limp Mode if the Oil Metering Pump has a bad day. This can also take the ECU out with it. Series 4 is a purely mechanical pump, opened and closed by a rod connected to the throttle body.
There is a site that you should bookmark and download manuals from: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals It might sound dumb, but something I learned is that it's much easier to work on a clean engine than a dirty one. If you're planning on doing a rebuild, It would definitely help to spend a day or two cleaning everything up under the hood. Some clean rags and degreaser from the dollar store will make life a lot easier when it's rebuild time. One thing I would suggest is being careful around connectors. They are likely to be 35+ years old and brittle. In 2011, my 13b's coolant temperature sensor (back of water pump housing) broke during removal, leaving half of it stuck inside the connector. Some Q-tips for these spots might be a good idea too. this will be my 4th engine rebuild so I have some experience, but it’s my first rotary so that puts most things out the window. |
Welcome to forum
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Looks to be an 88 GTU in Brilliant Black! Definitely a car worthy of restoration! Do you know any of the car's history?
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
(Post 12520247)
Looks to be an 88 GTU in Brilliant Black! Definitely a car worthy of restoration! Do you know any of the car's history?
beyond that I have little information the pictures attached are how it looks now :) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...74723a3e3.jpeg This is from today https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...186d7659c.jpeg This was last week https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ef29bfe39.jpeg And this was a month ago with the new plate :) |
The car looks amazing! You really transformed the car! Well done!
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