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I am new(er) here. I’ve been following along for a while and purchased a 1980 LS back in March. This is my third Rx7. I’ve had an 81, an 85(s), and now the 1980. I had the 81 for about a year and a half March of 89 until about September of 90. Then a too good to be true deal came my way and I had the 1985 from September of 1990 until about 1996. The 85 is the one I wish I never got rid of but life has a way of changing the priorities of a young person and a small sports car can become impractical.
I’ve already done a number of projects on the ’80. Brakes, oil change, oil pan gasket, water pump, pump + housing + thermostat gaskets, radiator flush, and I’m about 75% of the way through a steering and front suspension update.
I am in the general area of South East Pennsylvania - about 45 minutes outside of Philly if anyone else is around these parts. I’d also love to learn if there are any expert mechanics in the region helping keep these antiques on the road.
I still have loads to do and I know I will have questions. It is nice to be back in a rotary world.
Anton 1985 - pic from circa 1993 I think. 1980 LS , and now the 1980. I had the 81 for about a year and a half March of 89 until about September of 90. Then a too good to be true deal came my way and I had the 1985 from September of 1990 until about 1996. The 85 is the one I wish I never got rid of but life has a way of changing the priorities of a young person and a small sports car can become impractical.
I’ve already done a number of projects on the ’80. Brakes, oil change, oil pan gasket, water pump, pump + housing + thermostat gaskets, radiator flush, and I’m about 75% of the way through a steering and front suspension update.
I am in the general area of South East Pennsylvania - about 45 minutes outside of Philly if anyone else is around these parts. I’d also love to learn if there are any expert mechanics in the region helping keep these antiques on the road.
I still have loads to do and I know I will have questions. It is nice to be back in a rotary world.
Welcome to the forum Anton!! Your 80 LS looks very nice! I would love to see more pictures of the car when you get a chance! I also own an 80 LS, but my car is Solar Gold! Here are a couple of pictures:
Welcome to the forum Anton!! Your 80 LS looks very nice! I would love to see more pictures of the car when you get a chance! I also own an 80 LS, but my car is Solar Gold! Here are a couple of pictures:
Beautiful!!!! and in much better shape than mine is - at least at the moment. I have more pics. I will upload when I get a moment.
Welcome to the forum, I'm happy to see another SA! When you finish all the function neccesities what is your plan with the seven?
Well now, that is a big question. Keeping it entirely stock is simply impossible. It came to me without an ACV. Other than that it is mostly unmolested. The paint is desperately in need of a respray. I need to find appropriate waffle wheels, not to mention the gold ones it would have come with as part of the LS package. Believe it or not, it came from the dealer with the spoiler, airdam, strakes, and targa. So, I think, those are going to stay but get cleaned up and repaired where necessary. The interior needs some love. It is all there, but the driver's seat especially needs attention. I need to find one LS emblem which is probably unobtanium. The exhaust system is very, very rough, The only thing salvageable is the connecting pipe. The thermal unit, heat exchange and muffler are all pretty much rusted through in one or more places. I'm pretty sure those will be replaced with racing beat headers, pre-silencer, and muffler. Luckily, in PA, a vehicle registered as "antique" does not need to pass emissions inspection. Actually, an antique vehicle doesn't really need to pass any inspection.
It sounds very similar to my rx current state, but instead of repainting I'm rebuilding the engine Does your car still have the thermal reactor and it runs good without ACV and air pump? I like your aim with the car.
It sounds very similar to my rx current state, but instead of repainting I'm rebuilding the engine Does your car still have the thermal reactor and it runs good without ACV and air pump? I like your aim with the car.
My engine (knocks on wood) is 46 years old, 108.950 miles on it, has never been opened. Yes, my car has all of the original exhaust but no ACV. Because there was no ACV I took off the air pump since it was just extra weight doing nothing. Previous owner had capped and plugged all of the necessary vacuum hoses. The car runs decently with the thermal unit and heat exchanger. I won't say it is great. There is a noticeable <maybe 1 second> lag when moving from dead stop. The car will get a bit brappy when coasting. I can't tell if this is due to no ACV or the rusted exhaust system. From what I've read backfires and rough run down are due to exhaust leaks. I'm also in the process of checking all of the vacuum hoses for leaks. It runs well enough to drive it. It lacks some good manners I'd like it to have. It is also LOUD and a bit smelly from the exhaust.
Thanks for sharing your experience with driving without ACV. I haven´t found any info on that way to run it. I am little bit concerned about TR temperature without cooling its shell. Maybe without fresh heated air in exhaust ports there is not so much burning in TR and temp is lower, who knows.. I´m looking forward to your built thread!
The function of the ACV is to divert or control air coming from the air pump for emission purposes. It contains 3 valves, two of which channel the air (called secondary air) to the heat exchanger in the exhaust system. This pre-heats the air before it is sent back to the thermal reactor.
This secondary air flow controls the temperature inside the thermal reactor so that it can more effectively burn up the hydro carbons contained in the exhaust gasses. In short, helps to reduce the un spent exhaust emissions. Not sure if running a stock exhaust without the air pump or ACV will actually harm anything, but its designed to all work together.
The third valve (the diaphragm on the top) is the anti-afterburn valve. It is triggered by the solenoid off the side of the carburetor with the yellow dot on it and allows additional air into the intake manifold during deceleration and engine shutoff to help prevent afterburn or backfiring.