New but not new
06-11-18, 02:42 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
New but not new
Helloooo
I have a 93 auto, single gtx35, meth, power fc, running 1000cc 2nd and stock prim.
I'm currently working and going to school full time so finding time to work on the RX is far and few between.
But, I'm really excited to be apart of this community and if any of you guys are on the FB group (RX7 Argument {no homo}) I want you to punch yourself in the dixxxxxxxx.
Cheers
Oh yea...I'm located in Bremerton WA. Lets. Be. Friends?
I have a 93 auto, single gtx35, meth, power fc, running 1000cc 2nd and stock prim.
I'm currently working and going to school full time so finding time to work on the RX is far and few between.
But, I'm really excited to be apart of this community and if any of you guys are on the FB group (RX7 Argument {no homo}) I want you to punch yourself in the dixxxxxxxx.
Cheers
Oh yea...I'm located in Bremerton WA. Lets. Be. Friends?
06-11-18, 02:44 AM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Oh ADMIN, if you could pretty please allow me to post in the fourms that would be great.
Thank you for all that you do!
Brucebruce
.................................................. .................................................. ............................
Hello Simon,
Why would you need to get a different input shaft? Can you post a link that would give you that insight?
Simon, I'm going to post the message I just sent you so others can chime in on this epic adventure.
Quote:
I'm sourcing out all the parts for mine right as well although it would be for a 13b not a 20b. Not sure what differences that would be though.
I honestly don't know much about the 20b. I can tell you people have reported that the bolt pattern on the rear iron is different between Manual and an Auto, that are originally installed. Meaning: if your fd3 came with a auto - the rear iron is different. I imagine you can look up mazda part numbers of the rear iron and see that mazda has two (or more) available.
Quote:
First off as far as the transmission, I'm looking at picking up a T56 magnum.
I have a T56 made for FORD and the input shaft to the faceplate (where you mount the bell housing to the transmission) is 5.64" to the tip of the input shaft. This is important to note because you will need to know your total depth based on which bellhousing you go with. From what I've read and researched from other members completing the swap - the GM style will require you to cut ~1/2" off the input shaft OR add spacer to your bellhousing much like that RM199 you had mentioned. BTW the RM199 looks like its made for the FORD T56 by looking at the bottom cut out.
I know there's a couple versions of the QUICKTIME housings available that mount up a 13b to a T56. I DO BELIEVE one is meant for AUTO rear iron and the other is meant for MAN rear iron. Also you can see that one takes on the auto starter by the cut out and the other looks like its a normal bell housing. I would recommend you to contact HOLLEY and speak to one of their tech reps to determine the overall height of each one and which part number to go with your manual starter setup. Also, with this route you will need to be careful and make sure total indicated runout is in spec!
Quote:
Would you know which tail piece would fit the FD?
I haven't got to that step yet in the build. But I'm a little uncertain about why youre talking about the tail piece rather then the shifter locator. But if you meant to ask about relocating the shifter than I know that there's a couple companies who make shifter relocators like SIKKY but it looks like they only build for the GTO style shifter ball. But that can be fixed by buying a GTO style cup from TREMEC. I have looked around and found transmission shops that sell the T56 and other TREMEC products make shifter relocators but off the top of my head I can't think of there names.
As far as the clutch - I have gone with the Exedy GMR200 (twin clutch kit) and FM10 (flywheel). I went with this kit because of the deal I made with a supplier. But there's a down fall - there are NONE in the USA and are being made in Japan. My ETA is ~8/20. Also note!!!!!! This clutch requires your throw out bearing to have a face contact patch of 44mm-46mm and a stroke of 7.5mm.
As for the throw out bearing - I would go with a Tilton that is made for your style T56 (again you need to figure out if its a FORD or a GM). I plan on using the 6000 series because I'm using the AUTO bell housing and a custom built adapter plate.
TR-6060 aka T56 general over view
Scroll down to the 6th page for dimensions
This guy makes a T56 power plant frame
Hope this helps you along your way. Please keep in contact about issues you come across. And I will post a full write up as soon as I have time to work on my FD3.
Cheers!
Brucebruce
Thank you for all that you do!
Brucebruce
.................................................. .................................................. ............................
Hello Simon,
Why would you need to get a different input shaft? Can you post a link that would give you that insight?
Simon, I'm going to post the message I just sent you so others can chime in on this epic adventure.
Quote:
I'm sourcing out all the parts for mine right as well although it would be for a 13b not a 20b. Not sure what differences that would be though.
I honestly don't know much about the 20b. I can tell you people have reported that the bolt pattern on the rear iron is different between Manual and an Auto, that are originally installed. Meaning: if your fd3 came with a auto - the rear iron is different. I imagine you can look up mazda part numbers of the rear iron and see that mazda has two (or more) available.
Quote:
First off as far as the transmission, I'm looking at picking up a T56 magnum.
I have a T56 made for FORD and the input shaft to the faceplate (where you mount the bell housing to the transmission) is 5.64" to the tip of the input shaft. This is important to note because you will need to know your total depth based on which bellhousing you go with. From what I've read and researched from other members completing the swap - the GM style will require you to cut ~1/2" off the input shaft OR add spacer to your bellhousing much like that RM199 you had mentioned. BTW the RM199 looks like its made for the FORD T56 by looking at the bottom cut out.
I know there's a couple versions of the QUICKTIME housings available that mount up a 13b to a T56. I DO BELIEVE one is meant for AUTO rear iron and the other is meant for MAN rear iron. Also you can see that one takes on the auto starter by the cut out and the other looks like its a normal bell housing. I would recommend you to contact HOLLEY and speak to one of their tech reps to determine the overall height of each one and which part number to go with your manual starter setup. Also, with this route you will need to be careful and make sure total indicated runout is in spec!
Quote:
Would you know which tail piece would fit the FD?
I haven't got to that step yet in the build. But I'm a little uncertain about why youre talking about the tail piece rather then the shifter locator. But if you meant to ask about relocating the shifter than I know that there's a couple companies who make shifter relocators like SIKKY but it looks like they only build for the GTO style shifter ball. But that can be fixed by buying a GTO style cup from TREMEC. I have looked around and found transmission shops that sell the T56 and other TREMEC products make shifter relocators but off the top of my head I can't think of there names.
As far as the clutch - I have gone with the Exedy GMR200 (twin clutch kit) and FM10 (flywheel). I went with this kit because of the deal I made with a supplier. But there's a down fall - there are NONE in the USA and are being made in Japan. My ETA is ~8/20. Also note!!!!!! This clutch requires your throw out bearing to have a face contact patch of 44mm-46mm and a stroke of 7.5mm.
As for the throw out bearing - I would go with a Tilton that is made for your style T56 (again you need to figure out if its a FORD or a GM). I plan on using the 6000 series because I'm using the AUTO bell housing and a custom built adapter plate.
TR-6060 aka T56 general over view
Scroll down to the 6th page for dimensions
This guy makes a T56 power plant frame
Hope this helps you along your way. Please keep in contact about issues you come across. And I will post a full write up as soon as I have time to work on my FD3.
Cheers!
Brucebruce
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