mad_rx2

THIS IS A LINK TO THE WORLDS LARGEST SUB


SEE IT AND LEAVE A RESPONSE SO I KNOW WHAT EVERY ONE THINKS



http://www.woofersetc.com/showitem.taf?item_ID=1611

Icemark

That picture can't be it:


Look at the surround. they claim its a 2 inch surround in the add, but looking at it, and adding both sides together you would get 4 inchs of surround. Well the centercap and cone is only that wide.

CYAL8R

THATS MADD! THINK OF THE AMP YOUD NEED TO RUN A COUPLE OF THOSE BABIES! AND I THOUGHT VEGA STROKERS WERE POWERFUL

loudazzrx7

iTrader: (6)

there audiobahns and they suck they claim so much power they can take but if you even try to get 1000 watts to them you will fry them.the alum speakers are really bad .all you have to do is look at the price tag on them and that will tell you how good they sound----------they sound like ****!!!!!!!

mad_rx2

Icemark>
Audiobahn claim 2 inch thinck surround, not 2 " wide,

**** imagine that 2"thick omg YEah well it might be true
anywayz i hope that solves your 2+2 problem ok cya

Dougie_fresh_007

loudazz i disagree, i am a avid audiobahn fan and i am extrememly impressed with all their products, includeing the alum series, and i have 2000 watt rms subs, and i guarantee they can handle it, cause umm they have, AWT all the way

audibleeffects

I sell audiobahn, jl audio, mb quart, boston acoustics, alpine, etc. and I have to say that I have never would rate audiobahn products up there with the best of them all. They are great subs, amps etc. As for their price take a look at jl audio w7 and ill put a audiobahn 08q up against it anyday and win. audiobahn took 1st and 2nd place in overall points for the usac (MAJOR AUDIO COMPETITION) and also walked away with the one sub one amp class. They also have the 4th loudest vehicle in the world and thats all within the last 5 years so please know the facts about crap and quality.

audibleeffects

oh and for the record ive installed the 34" sub in the bed of a dodge ram in a custom enclosure, and it is incredible.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

I find it funny though how my 2 Clarion 12" subs in a sealed box is only 5 db's less then 2 audiobahn 12's wanna know the difference? The Audiobahn system costed over 4000 canadian while my clarions costed me about 1300... Audiobahn isnt too bad but i would need to rob a bank to afford there car audio... Plus how do you plan on getting enough power from a little rx7 to power a system over 1000 watts... my systems a true over 400 and already have killed a alternator and a battery...

BicuspiD

necrophiliac

austinsFD

HOLY **** 404!

infinitebass

You do realize that to get an increase of 3dB's, you have to have approx. double the power, right? So an increase of 5dB's is quite a bit...Not to mention that Audiobahn is actually some of the cheaper audio stuff. You can get a pretty big Audiobahn amp for cheap (like a 1000w amp for around $400, right?). Go look at actual GOOD car audio amps and such. Zapco 600x2 amp costs over $1000. So Audiobahn IS NOT expensive.

Another thing everyone needs to remember, the more surround you have, the harder it is to keep the sub in linear motion. So generally, the larger the surround, the lower sound quality it will have, particularly at high volume levels. I bet you won't find a sub with that much surround (much less any Audiobahn sub) winning and sound quality contests...

Blake

RotaryRyan

link doesnt work and i want to see it make it work now.

DCrosby

Wolds most annoying thread This One

Oh Wait ! You're allready here !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SurroundedBySe7ens

Why oh Car God's? WWWWHHHHHYYYYYY?????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

infinitebass

I think they're talking about this one:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=13534

The specs aren't even that great...my 10" Infinity can handle 1600w...Not to mention its a FOAM surround. Thats cheap...

Phiber Optik

iTrader: (2)

hahaha audiobahn maybe largest but definatly not loudest... Check out Digital Designs 9917 or Resonant Enginering's XXX or their new SPL woofer the MT

ckyguy

infinitebass- Infinity overrates their subs like no other, especially the reference series. Suposedly the reference series 10" can take up to 1200watts (bs max)and only costs like $50. There really needs to be an industry standard to rate power, because you need to know the brands, and how much they overrate or underrate their garbage to know how much power something can actually put out or handle. The only decent sub infinity makes is the Kappa Perfect, which I still wouldn't get, Infinity is just too cheap for me.

infinitebass

How do you know its a BS max rating? Have you tested it? Have you run clean power to them?

One of the demo's they have was hooking up the Kappa Perfect in a box directly to a wall outlet, which comes out to around 1600w of power. And it wasn't for a second or two either, it was for a while.

You do understand that peak wattage is under a clean signal and for an instant. Thats what its always been. If you've blown a speaker rated at 1000w on an amp thats only rated for 500w, its not the speaker's fault...

DamonB

Impressive

Any real audio guy (car or home) will tell you that loud is the easiest part. The hard part is making something that sounds right.

What seperates the men from the boys is detail and tone. Anybody can make loud.

I have a single 12" sub running on about 200 REAL watts in my living room home theater and it will easily rattle pictures in every room of the house. Measured F3 in the room is 25 hz Why people need to have multiple subs and a thousand watts in tiny cars I don't understand. It's MUCH easier to make bass in a small environment like a car.

infinitebass

Damon, I'm not sure how much you know about car audio, so I won't bother explaining anything, but it IS a bit harder making bass in a car than a house...

Well, making more bass isn't necessarily harder, but making better quality bass is...

Blake

DamonB

Compared to a home I disagree. Compared to a living room the car has a much smaller interior that is for all practical purposes sealed from the outside world, this makes it much easier to get loudness. At the same time the interior is small so low frequencies are naturally boosted. That means that for the small interior we don't have to move as much air, the driver needn't be as efficient at low frequencies (in fact you want it less efficient or you'll really over excite the cabin) and it won't take as much power to do it. Those are all pluses. They mean we don't need as much displacement, we don't need as much efficiency and we don't need as much power to produce the same results inside a home.

Sound quality issues with bass in most cars are caused by things in the car resonating and making noise themselves. Like the trunk and plastic trim buzzing inside the cabin for instance. These things can contribute their own noise and are perceived as distortion even though it's not the speaker's fault. After that you only have standing wave issues which you have in any enclosed location and frankly most people don't really understand them or bother to eliminate them anyway. Only way to cure standing waves is by not driving the speaker at the freqs that cause them or using a different driver location. This will be different for every car and room. You cannot cure standing waves with standard equalization; they can only be cured with speaker relocation, damping placed inside the room tuned to the correct freq or with very narrow notch filtering centered at the frequency of resonance.

Getting the sub driver to perform inside the car's cabin is fairly simple. Ensuring that the driver is the only thing making sound is harder. The work is not in the speaker, it's in the car so to speak. Home subs have the exact same issues (though they don't tend to vibrate the environment as badly) and require more displacement and power to bring the same sound levels. I prefer to run additional smaller drivers as opposed to running 18's for instance. All things equal smaller drivers are easier to get good sound out of since the cones are lighter and therefore easier to control. On the other hand you have to drive more of them so you need more power. Power is cheap and easy to get. I tend to design for max flatness and if the result is not efficient no biggie, you just drive it harder.

infinitebass

Ah, good, a nice debate...

The problem with cars is the type of sound the subs are designed to reproduce. Most home stereo subs are designed to reproduce the REAL low frequencies, hence the reason most are ported. As you said, your res. freq. is around 25hz. Thats great for low end response, which home movies require, since most movies hit well below 20hz. Car subs, on the other hand, play music, which rarely gets below 40hz, except for electronically generated music (techno and hip-hop, etc). Plus each car has a different resonant freq, which can make it a royal pain in the *** to set up a sub, since most subs only have one rez freq, but will vary once in the car.

Sure you can tune that with a ported sub, but since most of the subs are playing in the 40-60hz range, they have a tendency to show boominess a bit more. With a sealed box, to get the lower freq, you have to go to a larger box. Problem with that is again, most subs are designed with one size in mind, and any deviation from that will significantly hurt the output.

With home audio, once you find a sub that makes a good match to the room size you're looking at, the next biggest thing, as you mentioned, is positioning to eliminate standing waves. They can be minimized pretty easily by trial and error, and maybe some logical thinking. Cars, on the other hand, have so many different shapes to it, it can be a lot harder to find the correct position, particularly with the limitations imposed by most cars.

The other problem is the flatness of the whole range, from the lows to the highs. Most cars don't allow you, at least without a LOT of work, to have sealed and tuned enclosures for the midrange drivers, or a location to put some 8" mid bass drivers. Without that, the midrange response usually doesn't compliment the bass very well, so you don't get a really flat response between the two. Home speakers are much easier to tune to match each other, particularly because you can get the smaller drivers to extend to a lower frequency (I.E. the midrange drivers). Not to mention for a home sub, you don't really ever have to labor over finding the best box design since most manufacturers build a box thats optimized for the particular driver. But most subs are very dependent on box design, and with cars, you're severally limited as to space, location, and shape.

So thats my reasoning...

Blake

infinitebass

I'm actually looking forward to playing around with my new Infinity Perfect's, because they have vent pole inserts that change the motor force (Q, I believe), to fit different boxes and such. Should be kinda fun. Its the only sub I know of that allows you to play with the resonant frequency and efficiency without changing the box.

DamonB

Sound is sound. The lower cutoff of a sub doesn't mean anything as to sound quality other than it will play lower. FWIW my home sub is also not ported; it's an infinite baffle.

So what? You're implying you can't have really low response AND be musical. If the sub plays music every bit as clearly and F3's in the room at 25 hz isn't that a good thing? Sure movies have more low bass, but that doesn't mean a sub that can reproduce 25 hz can't be perfectly musical as well. Keep in mind when I say F3 at 25 hz I'm talking about the in room response, not FB of the enclosure. I wouldn't lower F3 at the expense of sound quality but if you can have your cake and eat it too why not? There's no shortcoming at all in lower extension, that's success!

Tuning the enclosure's response with a port and changing FB is completely different from measured in room or in car response. Anything sounding like "boominess" is a poorly designed system. Some subs are more particular about enclosures than others; that's a given. Also remember that hurting output (volume) and hurting response (flatness across the freq band) are two different things. You can always get output back with power (provided the driver has enough power handling. Again easy to find). Response has to be designed in with the sub's environment taken into account.

Generally in cars you can't reposition the sub so it makes it harder or impossible to eliminate standing waves via placement. OTOH a car is practically a near field environment with lots of damping (at sub freqs anyway) so standing waves are less of a problem. As for trial and error for placement in a room it's very simple. Place the sub in your seating position and walk around the room listening for (better yet, measuring) the best response. Where ever you're standing when you find it that's where you place the sub.

That's not a problem just for cars. Any system should have the effort spent to make the response flat.

If the response between all the drivers of the installation is not close to even and seamless then it's a poor installation. The reason the midbass sounds weak in many cars is in fact because the sub bass is so overwhelming the midrange comes across as weak. You'd be amazed how often "weak midbass" can be cured by padding the sub level down to "normal" as opposed to "earthquake". Again these are all install faults. Fact remains it is still very easy to get good bass in a car as compared to a home.


How do you figure that? You can extend the lower response of any driver at the expense of output and Q. Home speakers don't do anything magically that car speakers do not. You do have the opportunity to build an enclosure for the midrange drivers in a home but at the same time car speakers are designed to assume they are stuffed in a "big" enclosure like a door panel. Drivers for car use and drivers for home use have fundamental differences in that respect.

I build my own systems so I can maximize the enclosure characteristcs for whatever I like and what room it is to be installed in. That will always be better than buying mass market; that's true for cars too. Actually very few manufacturers build an enclosure that is optimized for a given driver. They build an enclosure that is optimized for material, labor and shipping costs. You'd be suprised what other qualities the manufacturer places in front of sound quality in nearly every mass market system on the planet. As for not laboring over enclosure design, there's lots of us who will disagree with you on that. You never know for sure until you build it and listen. Thankfully wood is cheap.