Twin Round Pop Ups!?
01-18-11, 06:05 PM
#128
Hi Charlie,
The kit looks great but I'm a little confused. I was under the impression this was going to be a "sleepy eye" kit. Maybe it's the angle or lack of in these pictures, but these look to be the same height as factory or at the very least similar.
Can you take a couple pictures that show the difference in profile?
Thanks and congrats again!
01-18-11, 08:01 PM
#129
Hi Charlie,
The kit looks great but I'm a little confused. I was under the impression this was going to be a "sleepy eye" kit. Maybe it's the angle or lack of in these pictures, but these look to be the same height as factory or at the very least similar.
Can you take a couple pictures that show the difference in profile?
Thanks and congrats again!
The kit looks great but I'm a little confused. I was under the impression this was going to be a "sleepy eye" kit. Maybe it's the angle or lack of in these pictures, but these look to be the same height as factory or at the very least similar.
Can you take a couple pictures that show the difference in profile?
Thanks and congrats again!
The height of these is certainly less than the stock units and appears to be the same height as the Knight Sport units. Having said that, the KS units are not all that much lower in height than the stockers so if you want a "sleepy eye" look, these aren't the units for you. If I can get my body shop guy to come thru, then he will offer that option. Search my name for my thread on that.
Finally, the lights on this are not projector units nor are they HID with proper cutoff. I point this out as for me, the most important thing about headlights is the actual light output and not blinding oncoming traffic. I would like to think this can be worked out with the kit but I am not quite sure if there is enough depth to put in proper lighting. I can't stress enough the difference proper lighting makes for actually seeing the road and for safety. It is literally (pun intended) night and day. If you are going to put the effort into doing something like this, I strongly encourage you to solve this issue so you can have a really good option here. Just my 2 cents
01-19-11, 02:17 AM
#130
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I know what you're saying about the light output.
These lights are better than originals, but as I said before, I shall not be putting more effort into these, since as I expected, the interest has already died now that the lights are finished and money would have to be handed over.
There's no way I'd put more effort, and more money on top of the $1000 I've already laid out on getting this going. It happened before with some carbon fibre kick sills, had plenty of interest, had them made, then no one wanted them.
Do you really think if the price of this kit went up another 50% or more due to improved lights, I'd really sell any!?
My aim with this project was to make better quality lights than the KS, for myself, and some others....and that I have done
I can send just the frames and covers, and let you fit your own lights
Sleepy- ok, I'll check back, but I didnt think I said they'd be completely sleepy, slighty sleepy lol lower and much better looking.
These lights are better than originals, but as I said before, I shall not be putting more effort into these, since as I expected, the interest has already died now that the lights are finished and money would have to be handed over.
There's no way I'd put more effort, and more money on top of the $1000 I've already laid out on getting this going. It happened before with some carbon fibre kick sills, had plenty of interest, had them made, then no one wanted them.
Do you really think if the price of this kit went up another 50% or more due to improved lights, I'd really sell any!?
My aim with this project was to make better quality lights than the KS, for myself, and some others....and that I have done
I can send just the frames and covers, and let you fit your own lights
Sleepy- ok, I'll check back, but I didnt think I said they'd be completely sleepy, slighty sleepy lol lower and much better looking.
01-19-11, 07:43 AM
#132
I know what you're saying about the light output.
These lights are better than originals, but as I said before, I shall not be putting more effort into these, since as I expected, the interest has already died now that the lights are finished and money would have to be handed over.
There's no way I'd put more effort, and more money on top of the $1000 I've already laid out on getting this going. It happened before with some carbon fibre kick sills, had plenty of interest, had them made, then no one wanted them.
Do you really think if the price of this kit went up another 50% or more due to improved lights, I'd really sell any!?
My aim with this project was to make better quality lights than the KS, for myself, and some others....and that I have done
I can send just the frames and covers, and let you fit your own lights
Sleepy- ok, I'll check back, but I didnt think I said they'd be completely sleepy, slighty sleepy lol lower and much better looking.
These lights are better than originals, but as I said before, I shall not be putting more effort into these, since as I expected, the interest has already died now that the lights are finished and money would have to be handed over.
There's no way I'd put more effort, and more money on top of the $1000 I've already laid out on getting this going. It happened before with some carbon fibre kick sills, had plenty of interest, had them made, then no one wanted them.
Do you really think if the price of this kit went up another 50% or more due to improved lights, I'd really sell any!?
My aim with this project was to make better quality lights than the KS, for myself, and some others....and that I have done
I can send just the frames and covers, and let you fit your own lights
Sleepy- ok, I'll check back, but I didnt think I said they'd be completely sleepy, slighty sleepy lol lower and much better looking.
Can you take measurements of the depth of the units so I can see if some of the Hella modules will fit? I am happy to do this so those that are interested have some good options for improved lighting.
01-19-11, 11:17 AM
#133
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I understand where you are coming from on this. Your work is really nice and I applaud you for the efforts.
Can you take measurements of the depth of the units so I can see if some of the Hella modules will fit? I am happy to do this so those that are interested have some good options for improved lighting.
Can you take measurements of the depth of the units so I can see if some of the Hella modules will fit? I am happy to do this so those that are interested have some good options for improved lighting.
02-10-11, 11:56 AM
#140
Hmm. I like that you completed this for sure, but those look a little less quality than I expected. Those are FG shrouds right? They don't look very smooth at all and the paint is not done well. As for the lights, I've already said my piece on them - they simply are not a good upgrade choice. If you are going to do this, then upgrade to a projector based unit for sure. I have offered to see if I can source some projector units for you, halogen to keep it inexpensive and a HID option, but I never hear back from you on the dimensions.
Sorry to rain on your parade so to speak but with a little more effort in improving the finish of the shrouds and with the right light choice, you'd rally have something here.
Sorry to rain on your parade so to speak but with a little more effort in improving the finish of the shrouds and with the right light choice, you'd rally have something here.
02-10-11, 12:01 PM
#141
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What I dont understand, is people are fine with paying ridiculous amounts of money for KS which are certainly of no better quality, worse lights, and not twin beams...yet I make something simialr for less money, and they're not good enough!?!
Ok, yes I'm fussy, and will see if they can polish it up more, but fibre glass isnt the best material....maybe I should go and by a vacuum former and get them made from ABS
Which measurements do you need?
Ok, yes I'm fussy, and will see if they can polish it up more, but fibre glass isnt the best material....maybe I should go and by a vacuum former and get them made from ABS
Which measurements do you need?
02-10-11, 12:41 PM
#142
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Ok....the depth of the light from glass to the back of the plastic plug is 4 and a half inches, since the KS lights are only spot lights, they're not as deep....and dont require the removing of the rubber stopper, I had to do this to get the depth of lamps into the framework, a picture to explain
Last edited by charlie_p; 02-10-11 at 01:00 PM.
02-11-11, 08:32 AM
#144
Okay, so I think I have a few lighting options for you to consider. First though, your design appears to have a flaw in it with the outer light, or the one that is on the small side of the shroud - the light you show in that position in your pic is at an angle and does not face forward straight. Look at the KS one and you'll see each light faces perfectly forward and yours has one at a bad angle in with no way to adjust it. Which brings me to my second point, that is light adjustability. Yes, the KS ones can only be adjusted up and down (at least they are straight) and you mirrored this but it would be much better if you could fully adjust the lights up and down and left and right.
Which leads me to my recommendations for you. First, I don't know if these will fit so you will have to take measurements and see. I think the critical dimension will be the depth of the units but just eyeballing it, it might fit.
For an inexpensive option, I recommend the Hellas halogen projector units. For the low beams, I would put in a set of 90mm projector units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=128
These are projector beam units and they use the new H9 bulb which puts out 1,800 lumens, far brighter than the stock OEM bulbs or what you are using. Most importantly, they are projector units which means they will have proper cutoff which equals "win" in my book. They are also pretty inexpensive, or $64 per light.
Here are the dimensions:
The depth of these is around 5.5 inches so you'll need to see if that fits into the bracket. Hope it does as this would provide the lighting you need. You can also buy adjuster screw for these which will allow for up/down and left/right adjustments:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=493
Mounting plate are also available:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=503
For the high beams, I would use the Hella 90mm bi-halogen units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4924
These would give you crazy good high beam capabilities. Although they are bi-halogen, you would only use them in the high beam setting and if you do your wire harness right, you can keep the low beam units on while these are on high beam also. That would be a lot of light.
They do cost a little more, or about $146 per unit but they would be well worth it for the light output.
So, if you went with the above setup, your lighting cost would be around $430 or so. What you would get though is vastly superior and legal lighting as Hella units are both DOT and ECE certified.
If you want to save a few bucks, then you could go with the 90mm halogen high units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=127
These are about $60 per unit and they work fine. I have them on my car for the highs but will probably swap them out for the bi-halogen units. Because I have Hella HID units for my low beams and they are so bright, I very rarely ever use the highs anyway.
So, if you went with these instead of the bi-halogen units, your total lighting cost would be around $260 which is pretty cheap for legal, nice lighting.
Now for those that don't care about money and want the best, get the 90mm HID low beam units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4283
These will absolutely blow away anything else with bright light with proper cutoff in a legal package. You will not be disappointed. The cost though is $440 per unit or $880 for a pair which is pretty steep. In the end though as a one time purchase, this is what I would do if I could afford it. The question is will they fit anyway?
Here is a diagram:
My guess is yes, as they are about the same dimensions as the other units I posted up.
So, there you have it, some good options for your lights. If you can get these to fit, then you'd have the ultimate kit. My saying is always if you are going to do it, why not do it right?
Which leads me to my recommendations for you. First, I don't know if these will fit so you will have to take measurements and see. I think the critical dimension will be the depth of the units but just eyeballing it, it might fit.
For an inexpensive option, I recommend the Hellas halogen projector units. For the low beams, I would put in a set of 90mm projector units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=128
These are projector beam units and they use the new H9 bulb which puts out 1,800 lumens, far brighter than the stock OEM bulbs or what you are using. Most importantly, they are projector units which means they will have proper cutoff which equals "win" in my book. They are also pretty inexpensive, or $64 per light.
Here are the dimensions:
The depth of these is around 5.5 inches so you'll need to see if that fits into the bracket. Hope it does as this would provide the lighting you need. You can also buy adjuster screw for these which will allow for up/down and left/right adjustments:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=493
Mounting plate are also available:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=503
For the high beams, I would use the Hella 90mm bi-halogen units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4924
These would give you crazy good high beam capabilities. Although they are bi-halogen, you would only use them in the high beam setting and if you do your wire harness right, you can keep the low beam units on while these are on high beam also. That would be a lot of light.
They do cost a little more, or about $146 per unit but they would be well worth it for the light output.
So, if you went with the above setup, your lighting cost would be around $430 or so. What you would get though is vastly superior and legal lighting as Hella units are both DOT and ECE certified.
If you want to save a few bucks, then you could go with the 90mm halogen high units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=127
These are about $60 per unit and they work fine. I have them on my car for the highs but will probably swap them out for the bi-halogen units. Because I have Hella HID units for my low beams and they are so bright, I very rarely ever use the highs anyway.
So, if you went with these instead of the bi-halogen units, your total lighting cost would be around $260 which is pretty cheap for legal, nice lighting.
Now for those that don't care about money and want the best, get the 90mm HID low beam units:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4283
These will absolutely blow away anything else with bright light with proper cutoff in a legal package. You will not be disappointed. The cost though is $440 per unit or $880 for a pair which is pretty steep. In the end though as a one time purchase, this is what I would do if I could afford it. The question is will they fit anyway?
Here is a diagram:
My guess is yes, as they are about the same dimensions as the other units I posted up.
So, there you have it, some good options for your lights. If you can get these to fit, then you'd have the ultimate kit. My saying is always if you are going to do it, why not do it right?
02-11-11, 10:18 AM
#145
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Ok thanks, I might have a look for myself in the future, but at the moment, the interest has died here in England and dwindled on here too
So I currently have about £600 ($800) laid out in costs for mouldings, jigs etc, and about the same again in stock of the lights so far
To say I'm disappointed is an understatement, as usual everyones interested until it comes down to actually handing over some money
Back to your post....Yes the lamp isn't quite straight, one of the arms isn't dead straight, but it fits in a U shape groove, not a hole, so it can be straightend up, again this the the same method of the KS
So I currently have about £600 ($800) laid out in costs for mouldings, jigs etc, and about the same again in stock of the lights so far
To say I'm disappointed is an understatement, as usual everyones interested until it comes down to actually handing over some money
Back to your post....Yes the lamp isn't quite straight, one of the arms isn't dead straight, but it fits in a U shape groove, not a hole, so it can be straightend up, again this the the same method of the KS
02-11-11, 12:41 PM
#146
Ok thanks, I might have a look for myself in the future, but at the moment, the interest has died here in England and dwindled on here too
So I currently have about £600 ($800) laid out in costs for mouldings, jigs etc, and about the same again in stock of the lights so far
To say I'm disappointed is an understatement, as usual everyones interested until it comes down to actually handing over some money
Back to your post....Yes the lamp isn't quite straight, one of the arms isn't dead straight, but it fits in a U shape groove, not a hole, so it can be straightend up, again this the the same method of the KS
So I currently have about £600 ($800) laid out in costs for mouldings, jigs etc, and about the same again in stock of the lights so far
To say I'm disappointed is an understatement, as usual everyones interested until it comes down to actually handing over some money
Back to your post....Yes the lamp isn't quite straight, one of the arms isn't dead straight, but it fits in a U shape groove, not a hole, so it can be straightend up, again this the the same method of the KS
02-11-11, 05:13 PM
#147
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one small problem is the shipping costs associated with buying something from the UK, plus customs on top of it and potentially having to wait for something for a stupid long time and then having one dumb customs official break it. In addition there are quite a few other lighting options that are being explored at the present time and I'm sure some others, like myself, are waiting to see how those turn out.
05-15-11, 04:59 AM
#149
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Ok here we go, fitting guide!
Step 1: remove the existing popup gubbins
Step 2: remove the ball-nut thingie from the back of the popup...
note: mine were coated in locktite, and an absolute biatch to remove...
Step 3: remove the stock bump-stop by drilling out three small spot-welds
The put bumpstop on frame of new lights
Step 4: drill a couple of small holes in the side of the light cover, so it can be bolted on (the new lights use the stock mounts at the rear, but not the front ones - instead it uses two side-mounted bolts)
Step 5: clip off the old front mounts on the light covers (so that they can sit flush on the new lights):
If it looks like quite a job..it is...only a little more than the KS though!!
Step 1: remove the existing popup gubbins
Step 2: remove the ball-nut thingie from the back of the popup...
note: mine were coated in locktite, and an absolute biatch to remove...
Step 3: remove the stock bump-stop by drilling out three small spot-welds
The put bumpstop on frame of new lights
Step 4: drill a couple of small holes in the side of the light cover, so it can be bolted on (the new lights use the stock mounts at the rear, but not the front ones - instead it uses two side-mounted bolts)
Step 5: clip off the old front mounts on the light covers (so that they can sit flush on the new lights):
If it looks like quite a job..it is...only a little more than the KS though!!
