Drifter101

I was wondering if anyone here has ever gave painting a go on there own, and or any veterans that would care to run me through the process. Im planning on going flat black, is there a huge difference between the quality of a flat black rattle can job or a sprayed flat black? if you guys would answere these questions it would be greatly aprecciated


Heres what i'll be spraying hopefully within the next couple months, i had to replace a new door and fender as they were damaged when i bought the car

Click here for pictures

rynberg

You're painting your car with flat black SPRAY PAINT? Like Krylon paint????

You don't need advice, it will look like dogshit no matter how you do it......seriously

AMRAAM4

Have you ever looked back upon your life and said "that is the worst thing that I have ever done"?

....well, doing this would top that.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

difference between a rattle can and a spray flat black
is you will tend to get more stripping with the rattle cans.

Drifter101

Ok, lets leave it at this. I need a "LOW BUDGET" paint that will make my n/a fc all one color. As much as i like the suprised look on peoples face when they see the "3 colored car" take off from a stop light i still would like to have it one solid color even if it is a primer coat for now.
I dont have money for a 3k paintjob and need something cheap that in a couple of months i can just go from there and not krylin spray paint, the autobody store sells rattle can black primer. Im wondering if anyone has any experience with it vs a spray gun. Thanks for your critiscism though

spooledUP7

It depends on the paint you buy. Whatever paint you decide to go with (enamel, urethane, water based, or lacquer) go with a single stage solid color. I say solid because if you don't have the skills to paint evenly you will see stripes if you use a metallic blend. That said, if you are hard up for metallic, mix the paint very well and keep your pot agitated while spraying to avoid settling.
The easiest paint is straight up enamel single stage using reducer. The only problem I see with you using this kind of paint is you location where it may be too cold to spray reduced enamel only. You may have to go with a catalyzed finish where you add a reactor to the paint to harden it. If you are not careful with the ratios with this paint you could end up with a tacky finish, or the paint going off in the air (or worse in your pot). No matter what, you want to be sure you mix the correct ratios for your climate, and read all instructions.
Make sure you get the correct primer. I like to use a high build, or filler primer to build up quick and sand out nicely. Finish the primer with 600-1000 grit but no higher. You need to etch the surface for the paint. Let it dry for at least 12-24 hours before spraying.(I never follow this rule, but it’s there for a reason)
Once you have the paint mixed, it's just a matter laying it on.
Some tips: Don't try to build up one thick coat or you will end up with sags and runs.
Let the first coat be a tack coat by spraying it lightly and letting it set for a few minutes.
Start your spray outside or before of the object and finish you pass by overshooting the object to avoid any starting point buildup.
Once you start spraying you will need to adjust your air pressure, and nozzle diameter to get the correct flow. Use a sample board to test on. Orange peel is too much volume with too much air, while dusting is caused by too much air and not enough material or too thin of a mixture.
Lightly sand between coats. You just want to knock down any dust specs and orange peel or runs. Be careful of any edge or you will sand through it. Get your self a wet/dry rubber-sanding pad to back the sand paper. The trick to sanding is not to press on the sand paper, but rather let it glide over the surface. Also, don’t concentrate too long on one spot or you will make a flat spot. The idea is to keep the paper moving over a broad area, and keep it clean and well lubricated with water.
Get 5-8 coats (or even more for a deep finish) and let the final coat rest for a week. You want the solvents to really evaporate or else you will see all your previous sanding marks when the paint shrinks up. The majority of the solvents will evaporate within a week (depending on weather) but in reality the car will be “gassing” for up to a month or more.
After the paint has cured enough, sand from 1000-1500 and start buffing with a fine grit compound and then work your way through the Maguire’s numbers.
In the end you should have a very healthy looking finish providing you didn’t take any short cuts.
For a really nice finish remove the window rubber, and plastic trim. Don’t be caught with a masking line on your window trim. Very thrift store.

Drifter101

Thanks for your time spooled just what i was looking for

911GT2

How low budget are you looking? Maaco will paint a car for like $500. Granted, it will peel and crack in about 6 months, but it'll be all one color.

Drifter101

Maaco would be an option if i lived in the USA, but seeing as im in canada that might be a problem

diablone

iTrader: (2)

http://www.maaco.com/locate/CAN.html