Interior / Exterior / Audio Talk about interior and exterior mods including audio.

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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #1  
dblboinger's Avatar
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From: DeSoto IL
WA Opinions?

Been quite a while since I posted anything related to my own car, but now I'm looking for some input. About a year ago my alternator died. I thought it was due to an overload resulting from wiring my sub for 2 ohms. Partly correct, but there were other issues that contributed too. After my last ordeal I had my alternator output increased to 140A. I replaced the Optima Yellow as well because it measured a weak cell. I got talked into applying dynamat to the rest of my passenger cabin because I was having a problem with weak mid-bass, which I found was due to a damaged crossover that has been repaired. Then I came across a screamin deal on an Alpine MRP-M2000 from a friend who was in a bind and needed cash. It's rated at 2000w @ 2ohms, 1500w @ 4ohms....too much for 1 Kicker S10L7 so I rebuilt the enclosure to 3.9 cu. ft (sealed) to accommodate a 2nd sub. Now, after nearly a year, I'm coming down to the end of the project, but I'd like to get some opinions on some of the remaining options.

I currently have a pair of 2 ohm S10L7's and a pair of 4 ohm S10L7's, so I can go 2 or 4 ohms on the sub. What do you think? Should I go 2000w @ 2 ohms or 1500w @ 4ohms to spare some load to my electrical system? Any thoughts on whether my electrical system will handle this system? Not many options on increasing the alternator output more and I don't really want to add another battery because of the weight/cost and the fact that I'm running out of room. I do have a Tsunami 20 farad capacitor, so I could easily add it, but I've had a lot of people tell me it's like throwing a bucket of water into the Mississippi on a system this large. Opinions on that?
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #2  
dohckiller808's Avatar
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From: hawaii
2k is fine on your electrical system. if you want to run just 1 sub look at re audio, dd 9510, atomic, dc audio ect....

i would suggest getting a stinger volt gauge and wire it right at your amps power terminals. just keep n eye on your voltage drop. dont let her go into the 11s to be safe. but like everything else, more is better. if you get the chance, get a VCM to regulate the higher demand.

dont bother using a cap. caps are ok of real small systems but a battery bank will always win. even a tiny civic batt relocated to the rear of your car will out preform a 20 farad cap.

right now as people say its not "safe" im running 12,000 watts rms on battery banks, stock electricals in competition. doing this just to prove to people it can be done if supervised right.
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