CYD

I want to get molded fenders, but the shops I have talked with have concerns with the longevity of molding fiberglass fenders to the steel body. Issues with it cracking and the paint chipping in a couple years.

Has anyone experience these or other similar issues after molding body work/fenders to the FD? Any solutions?

My hope was to get the Pettit Fenders Molded like I have seen others do around these parts, but any thoughts or advice on how best to do this and get the best results would be appreciated. I want to avoid spending a few grand for paint after everything is molded, only to have to do it again in a couple years due to cracking or something.

Thanks,

~CYD

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

I've seen issues occur on hot days, as the materials expand at different rates (Causing cracks or movement).

A decent car body shop should be able to sort it out for you...May cost a bit though

str8ryd

iTrader: (473)

This is why I had sold the Burnout "steel" rear fender flares in a Group Buy. They're not as aggressive as Pettit, but they'll do the job. If it's something you're considering, there is a member selling a set currently in the F/S section.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

I have had my rear feed fenders molded on for over a year now with no issues with cracking or any sort. Molding it in looks 100X better then rivets IMO.

Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

look up pics on my car with the pettit flares. They arent molded, but i did vanish the mounting holes. I used Fuzor EX800 polyurethane bonding compound between the flares and the chassis. Been 2.5years since i painted it with ZERO issues. I used stainless stell screws to secure the flares to the chassis.

Aaaand, yes molding/blending will cause issues down the road. Especially if its your daily or even weekend warrior. Only the sissy show cars can get away with it because they are pushed in and out of their trailers.

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

pettit flares are so damn ugly...



its all about the Origin or burnout

ORIGIN

https://www.rx7club.com/shineautoproject-161/origin-lab-50mm-rear-over-fender-727732/

BURNOUT

https://www.rx7club.com/shineautoproject-161/fd3s-ks-auto-burnout-style-full-aero-kit-now-available-560157/

I have a pair of the BURNOUT rear flares made in steel

t-von

iTrader: (8)

To each his own. I don't like the huge taper in the rear. It's gonna allow for way too much of the rear tire tread to show whenever they put on the correct tires for this car.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

Nah, its all about FEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEED.

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

^I concur.

Mine are stuck on with bondo though, not smoothed in.

CYD

I can't use anything less than +50mm with my wheels and offset. Which is limiting to the options. If Feed made a +50 rear fender I'd be all over that.

Origin is +50, but the taper in the towards the bottom is going to show too much rubber for my taste.

Ceylon

iTrader: (3)

Fair enough. Personally I'm not a fan of the "fat ***" rx-7 look that the Pettit rear fenders give.

But each to their own

You could always modify the FEED arches for more clearance. I believe Sean from A-spec has an orange FD with at least +50mm on FEED fenders.

viviorunitia88

iTrader: (9)

im molding mine on as well and i thought about this issue but the solution i found has been a rather expensive but great solution. for the adhesion of the fender to the steel i have used 3m panel bond 8115 which has a higher tensel strength then welding. only down side is its like 50 a tube or so and i am on my 6 tube or so for my hole kit. check my build thread out for pics. also to prevent the flexing from the widebody with the space under neith im useing 3m window weld to fill in the gaps underneth great adhersion and also when cured is very durable and prevents the fiberglass from flexing which is a big no no with molding. then for the filler to do the molding evercoat came out with this new filler called fibertech which is the strongest filler on the market being a kevlar reinforced filler. its kinda expensive at $60 a half gallon. between the steps that im takeing the fiberglass wont flex and crack let alone the body filler. as well as the fiberglass would literly break before the panel bond weld would break. panel bond is what they use now adays when you get into a crash and have to have a panel of the car replaced. the only thing that can get it off is laquor thinnner when its still workable and then opean flame when cured. so as long as you know how to use the products and how to apply them fears of molding kits in is a thing of the past.

widebodyseven

iTrader: (17)

+1 for the 3M panel bond

I use it to bond 4 widebodys one of the car is a track car and everything is holding up fine

Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

Pettit flares is where its at if you're a real man and want to put some real rubber under the rear of your car..


my 13" wide tires fart and **** on the punk *** 10" you barely fit with feeds or burnouts..

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

Being a "REAL MAN" has nothing to do with putting those ugly *** flares on your car...

Want to see a real man? Check out Kevin Doe...



He fits your manly *** tires (315's) on his car, without destroying the look of his car.

Personally, I'll never go over 285's on my car, because I want to run street class. (max tire size allowed, before getting bumped into modified class)

That is easily done on a factory quarter panel.

Thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/fitting-315s-stock-body-fd-904367/

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

^+1, you can fit a fatass tire on your car as long as you are running the proper offset.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Well for me, I feel 20b and a modified buffed up body goes hand and hand. As long as I've been on here, can anyone actually define the word "stock body lines"? I can't see how any molded flare effects this considering that you are still maintaing the "smooth flow" of the stock lines. The Fd is very curvacious. Molded flares complements this. Too me what clashes are smooth curves and sharp corners. Those cars exist all over this forum.