keyless entry/ alarm ???
#1
keyless entry/ alarm ???
hey whats up?
has anyone here been sucessful in installing an alarm with keyless entry?? if so please let me know how to hook up the module for the door. thanks,
1994 fd
has anyone here been sucessful in installing an alarm with keyless entry?? if so please let me know how to hook up the module for the door. thanks,
1994 fd
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
For a door lock actuator you will want to attach the rod/actuator to the hand lever on the inside of the door.
You will have to either drill a small hole or bend a small latch attachement piece to the place where the cable attaches to the hand lever.
You do not want to attach to the cable as it will soon fail afterwards.
You will have to either drill a small hole or bend a small latch attachement piece to the place where the cable attaches to the hand lever.
You do not want to attach to the cable as it will soon fail afterwards.
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Blade7
what motor did you used in the window?
what motor did you used in the window?
I use the DEI door lock motors the most often.
But for window control I recommend the DEI 530T window controller. It gives one touch up and down as well as can roll the windows up when arming/locking with the remote.
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#6
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What I did...
I know this has been brought up several times, and no one ever had a pic to point at, so I thought I'd share what I have just done.
I read posts about attaching the actuator rod to the plastic handle being the "way to go." This is how I began, but noticed that after I put a hole in the handle, the throw of my actuators was considerably longer than the distance this hole wanted to travel.. resulting in undue stress on the handle. Would this eventually break it? Who knows.. but why do something 1/2 *** when you can re-engineer the problem.
What I did was to take a piece of the erector-set actuator mounting metal, trim it, and "extend the radius of the arc" with it.. and what that gave me matched the travel of the actuator perfectly. The pic will explain better.
I read posts about attaching the actuator rod to the plastic handle being the "way to go." This is how I began, but noticed that after I put a hole in the handle, the throw of my actuators was considerably longer than the distance this hole wanted to travel.. resulting in undue stress on the handle. Would this eventually break it? Who knows.. but why do something 1/2 *** when you can re-engineer the problem.
What I did was to take a piece of the erector-set actuator mounting metal, trim it, and "extend the radius of the arc" with it.. and what that gave me matched the travel of the actuator perfectly. The pic will explain better.
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#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
great idea newbernd
My only concern would be the actuator attchement plastic seems to be a little elongated. You may wish to add a small piece of vacuum hose around the rod where it meets the actuator. The hose would allow a little give and still keep it reasonably tight in there.
My only concern would be the actuator attchement plastic seems to be a little elongated. You may wish to add a small piece of vacuum hose around the rod where it meets the actuator. The hose would allow a little give and still keep it reasonably tight in there.
#9
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Hmm, how do I explain.
It's that little metal tab that I added to the black plastic handle.. it's held on with the nut, and the z-shaped rod is attached to it.. Before, I tried to pass the rod through the hole where the nut is, but it didn't have enough travel.
And on another note, yes, I know that the bar doesn't need to be bent like that here.. but it was helping with some of the other configurations I was going through..
Hope that helped
It's that little metal tab that I added to the black plastic handle.. it's held on with the nut, and the z-shaped rod is attached to it.. Before, I tried to pass the rod through the hole where the nut is, but it didn't have enough travel.
And on another note, yes, I know that the bar doesn't need to be bent like that here.. but it was helping with some of the other configurations I was going through..
Hope that helped
#10
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Oh yeah, at first I tried to elongate the hole down there to make up for the extra travel in the actuator.. that was just rediculous. After I came up with this, it just worked right and didn't seem to mind the slop. I could replace the actuator (i do have another) but it fits fine, doesn't fall off, and most of all, doesn't stress the handle.
Yay.
Yay.
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