Railgun

I've done some extensive searching and didn't come up with too many results on pics of your bin battery installs.

I'm about to undergo the above relocation and just wanted some ideas. I know what I want and how to get there, but I wanted to see what some of you have done to see other ways to make it look nice. I don't want some hack job. Also, if some of you race, whether on the strip or track, let me know if you've had any problems with tech inspections. I will be doing some road racing and maybe the occasional drag, and I don't want any issues with meeting requirements.

Please, if you don't have any pics or are going to tell me to just put it in the hatch area, I don't want to know about it.

It's an optima red top, so I'm fine in the fume area.

Thanks in advance!

Christian

spyfish007

I need to take a picture, but it is of an Optima Yellow Top in the 51R (Honda) size. It has as much juice as a full size normal battery, but smaller. I've done the full size battery thing and you have to pull the bins to get the battery out. I can get the battery out without removing the bins. I'll see if I can get you a photo soon.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

If you haven't already seen it, here's "jimlab's" setup. Here's the thread.

jxc-rex

Sorry no pics, but I just relocated a Optima red top in the passenger bin after a FMIC install. I bolted a tray to the floor for the battery to sit on. Had to cut most of the bin out as the battery was pretty tall. Finally got it right the third time after some trial an error. I used the the hole where I assume the j-spec rear seat-belts anchor for my ground (There are rubber plugs on both sides of the bins). For the positive I drilled a hole in the driver's side bin from underneath near the shield for the hard fuel lines, then ran the line under the shield to the engine bay. I thought that would be easier then going thru the fire wall and under carpeting. So far no complaints and a clean install.

Railgun

Cool. Keep 'em coming!

JCX, did you use a grommet for that hole? I like that idea instead of ripping half the car apart to run the line.
(Yes, it's an exaggeration, I know it's not that hard. Done it before).

spyfish007

I used a 0 gauge stinger pro grommet. It is real nice and under $10. Any stereo shop should carry them. You can run the power line from the starter to the battery and tuck the wire in the fuel line tray to protect it.

jxc-rex

I planned on using a grommet that came with the kit I bought but the place I drilled had two layers of sheet metal so it wouldn't exactly fit. I also did not have a drill bit large enough. I sealed the hole with silicone pretty well which should stop any unwanted rubbing.

jxc-rex

I planned on using a grommet that came with the kit I bought but the place I drilled had two layers of sheet metal so it wouldn't exactly fit. I also did not have a drill bit large enough. I sealed the hole with silicone pretty well which should stop any unwanted rubbing.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I would love to see your set up..

I've had mine relocated but its getto'd out.. I usually don't open it..

I'm ready to install my red top.. so, any pics would be greatly appreciated!

PHIL

XSTransAm

what did you guys use to cut the bins (just out of curiosity?)

Railgun

I'm just planning on using a Dremel, but I imagine that that will rough up the edges. Just file that afterwards and all should be ok.

I guess drilling through the floor would be an OK option as routing will be easier and out of the way. Hey jxc, what gauge wire did you run underneath? How tight was the fit through that shield?

jxc-rex

I think it was an eight gauge wire. I ordered the kit off of JEG's was about $40. Included 15-20 fit of positive cable, the groung cable, battery tray and tie down, a rubber grommet, and some misc. clips, nuts, and bolts.

There is plenty of room inside the shield. There are three bolts (10mm) I removed on one side so I could feed the line in. I just worked my way to the front of the car and cut it to length. I shrink wrapped as much as the wire and connector as I could then bolted with a wingnut to the fuse box. I do however need to get a new rubber boot to protect the connections as mine disintegrated when I removed the battery. Finally, I used zip ties to secure it so it wouldn'd flop around.

The dremel worked great for cutting the bin. Unfortunately, I don't think there is anyway to make the inside pretty. The bin locks so who's else is going to see it anyway.

One thing I bought extra was one of the negative connectors with the screw so you can unground the battery if necessary. It would be a major PITA to have to take the interior apart to disconnect easily.

The only thing I am going to need to change on my install is that installed the Optima with the leads toward the front. Unfortunately the are now somewhat hidden by the front of the bin.

spyfish007

I'll try and take pics tomorrow for you. My post are toward the back. I used a dremel and I have an idea on how to make it look pretty. Basically I have a wood box that holds the battery in place. The battery sits on the bottom metal and is held upright. Between the battery lip and the battery box I could add a 1/4" MDF that contours to the shape of the rear bins and then cover it in vynil therefore hiding everthing underneath. You follow?

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Is there a dry cell battery that will fit inside the bins?

Railgun

Anyone have anymore?

Since I knew that I wasn't going to use that bin anymore for anything, I cut the bin flush to the top. I'll get pics today for you all to add to the collection.

jeepguy04

iTrader: (1)

Here is a pic of mine. It is an optima red top. Fits quite nicely. This pic isn't the best at showing it, but it's the best I got right now. My car is parked over in my mom's garage (park which ever car I'm not driving at the moment over there since I only have a sinlgle care garage at my house)

spyfish007

Here is a picture of my Optima Yellow Top mounted in the rear passenger bin.