Found someone to make FD front speaker brackets to replace BOSE! :) Need core!
04-01-10, 01:42 AM
#26
^ wont work also to flimsy made of plastic. Make them yourself, it'll be worth it. It'll also need to be more than 1/4 think. you have a very small window of space between the speaker magnet and the window glass and between the speaker itself and the speaker grille.
04-19-10, 03:46 PM
#30
11.6@122mph
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was told via CC email that the first brackets are done and the kind gentleman who donated his bose speakers should be receiving them any day now.
I'll update when I know more.
I'll update when I know more.
04-25-10, 01:11 PM
#31
Howdy...I'm the guy who was brave enough to donate my original brackets. Whenever I get them in, I'll let everyone know. I will mention that my car is completely stripped at the moment so there will be a limit to the feedback I can provide outside of fitment. =)
05-16-10, 09:27 PM
#36
There's already a number of threads on this subject.
Nobody needs a car to make *brackets.* Anyone can make speaker brackets using 3/4" punched metal rope that you can buy at any hardware store. If you're referring to an adaptor plate, that's different, but if that's the case, why can't this guy just borrow your car for 20 minutes and make the measurements? It's really not that complicated.
However mounting a speaker on a bracket or a plate without building a small enclosure is just creating work that will actually sound worse than the semi-sealed stock speakers. The only way to make the stock setup sound better is to replace the stock enclosure with a completely sealed one for the new speakers, and then mount the tweeters higher up on the door so people's legs don't block their output.
Furthermore for those creating your own speaker enclosures, make sure your new speakers don't extend any further outward than the stock ones. Otherwise you won't be able to put your door back on.
Nobody needs a car to make *brackets.* Anyone can make speaker brackets using 3/4" punched metal rope that you can buy at any hardware store. If you're referring to an adaptor plate, that's different, but if that's the case, why can't this guy just borrow your car for 20 minutes and make the measurements? It's really not that complicated.
However mounting a speaker on a bracket or a plate without building a small enclosure is just creating work that will actually sound worse than the semi-sealed stock speakers. The only way to make the stock setup sound better is to replace the stock enclosure with a completely sealed one for the new speakers, and then mount the tweeters higher up on the door so people's legs don't block their output.
Furthermore for those creating your own speaker enclosures, make sure your new speakers don't extend any further outward than the stock ones. Otherwise you won't be able to put your door back on.
05-16-10, 11:18 PM
#37
Full Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok so who is this troll (juicyjosh) adding nonsense to a good thread. Let me list the the falsehoods of his statements.
1: "There's already a number of threads on this subject."
There is no other thread out there where a manufacture is going to design and build FD RX7 Owners with original BOSE systems a bracket for 6.5 inch door speakers. The ebay brackets made of MDF are no more. They do not exist on ebay anymore unless someone has a set left over.
2: "Anyone can make speaker brackets using 3/4" punched metal rope that you can buy at any hardware store.
Are you serious metal rope? I am gonna mount a speaker with metal rope instead of plate. Umm no sir, The speaker needs a complete flush surface to mount. Metal rope can only go to the mounting holes on the speaker. If I did go the hardware store and build a bracket i would least be smart enough to grab some 3/4 MDF, jigsaw, and router.
3: If you're referring to an adaptor plate, that's different, but if that's the case, why can't this guy just borrow your car for 20 minutes and make the measurements? It's really not that complicated."
We are talking about an adapter. It adapts the original location and mounting points to 6.5 inch aftermarket speakers. Borrow my car? Um who is gonna send their entire car to manufacture to design a bracket. Not me. I bet not you. CNC machining parts is that complicated. The measurements have to be precise to get results that we can use.
4:However mounting a speaker on a bracket or a plate without building a small enclosure is just creating work that will actually sound worse than the semi-sealed stock speakers. The only way to make the stock setup sound better is to replace the stock enclosure with a completely sealed one for the new speakers
Um aftermarket 6.5 inch speakers for cars are designed to work in door panels not sealed enclosures. If it was designed for enclosures there would be air space requirements in the specs. Guess what there are none for any 6.5 inch speaker I have ever seen other than subwoofers.
Ill skip the tweeter comment because that was correct.
5:Furthermore for those creating your own speaker enclosures, make sure your new speakers don't extend any further outward than the stock ones. Otherwise you won't be able to put your door back on.
Really, I shouldn't make my speaker interfere with putting my door back on. I didn't know I was taking my "door" off maybe I should instead worry about the "door panel" going back on and making sure the window doesn't hit the magnet when it is down.
So yeah you got one thing right that any person that read about tweeter placement online for 2 min would know. The rest of your post in here is worthless. For the guy that started this thread and the guy that donated his BOSE enclosures. Thank you gentleman. Don't let this troll discourage you.
1: "There's already a number of threads on this subject."
There is no other thread out there where a manufacture is going to design and build FD RX7 Owners with original BOSE systems a bracket for 6.5 inch door speakers. The ebay brackets made of MDF are no more. They do not exist on ebay anymore unless someone has a set left over.
2: "Anyone can make speaker brackets using 3/4" punched metal rope that you can buy at any hardware store.
Are you serious metal rope? I am gonna mount a speaker with metal rope instead of plate. Umm no sir, The speaker needs a complete flush surface to mount. Metal rope can only go to the mounting holes on the speaker. If I did go the hardware store and build a bracket i would least be smart enough to grab some 3/4 MDF, jigsaw, and router.
3: If you're referring to an adaptor plate, that's different, but if that's the case, why can't this guy just borrow your car for 20 minutes and make the measurements? It's really not that complicated."
We are talking about an adapter. It adapts the original location and mounting points to 6.5 inch aftermarket speakers. Borrow my car? Um who is gonna send their entire car to manufacture to design a bracket. Not me. I bet not you. CNC machining parts is that complicated. The measurements have to be precise to get results that we can use.
4:However mounting a speaker on a bracket or a plate without building a small enclosure is just creating work that will actually sound worse than the semi-sealed stock speakers. The only way to make the stock setup sound better is to replace the stock enclosure with a completely sealed one for the new speakers
Um aftermarket 6.5 inch speakers for cars are designed to work in door panels not sealed enclosures. If it was designed for enclosures there would be air space requirements in the specs. Guess what there are none for any 6.5 inch speaker I have ever seen other than subwoofers.
Ill skip the tweeter comment because that was correct.
5:Furthermore for those creating your own speaker enclosures, make sure your new speakers don't extend any further outward than the stock ones. Otherwise you won't be able to put your door back on.
Really, I shouldn't make my speaker interfere with putting my door back on. I didn't know I was taking my "door" off maybe I should instead worry about the "door panel" going back on and making sure the window doesn't hit the magnet when it is down.
So yeah you got one thing right that any person that read about tweeter placement online for 2 min would know. The rest of your post in here is worthless. For the guy that started this thread and the guy that donated his BOSE enclosures. Thank you gentleman. Don't let this troll discourage you.
05-17-10, 08:17 AM
#39
11.6@122mph
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You do want a good seal on the speaker for best sound. The Bose units actually have a ported enclosure and that's why they have such a full range for 4" speakers... they get down to 20hz and below.
At the MINIMUM, you should seal the speaker mounting ring to the plastic adapter base (with a speaker gasket, or silicone, RTV, whatever) and put a 8"x8" piece of butyl deadener of your choice directly behind the speaker on the door skin. This will help revive some of the midrange that is lost in an infinite baffle speaker.
Ideally, you'd deaden the whole door with liquid deadener, and use the rolls of deadener to seal up the inner door frame. The only holes exposed left would be the drains at the bottom of the door and maybe a little around where the wiring harness comes in. A properly deadened door should only cost you ~$50 in supplies, but will be a NIGHT AND DAY difference over just mounting a speaker to a bracket.
FWIW, from research I've done, using ONLY brackets and nothing else, you WILL lose a little bit of low/midrange compared to "new" Bose enclosures, but your highs will be brighter and the speaker will be able to go a lot louder. That being said, a properly deadened door with 6.5" aftermarket components will blow even a "new" Bose enclosure out of the water.
At the MINIMUM, you should seal the speaker mounting ring to the plastic adapter base (with a speaker gasket, or silicone, RTV, whatever) and put a 8"x8" piece of butyl deadener of your choice directly behind the speaker on the door skin. This will help revive some of the midrange that is lost in an infinite baffle speaker.
Ideally, you'd deaden the whole door with liquid deadener, and use the rolls of deadener to seal up the inner door frame. The only holes exposed left would be the drains at the bottom of the door and maybe a little around where the wiring harness comes in. A properly deadened door should only cost you ~$50 in supplies, but will be a NIGHT AND DAY difference over just mounting a speaker to a bracket.
FWIW, from research I've done, using ONLY brackets and nothing else, you WILL lose a little bit of low/midrange compared to "new" Bose enclosures, but your highs will be brighter and the speaker will be able to go a lot louder. That being said, a properly deadened door with 6.5" aftermarket components will blow even a "new" Bose enclosure out of the water.
05-21-10, 03:03 PM
#41
Full Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So yeah the "USED" Bose speakers that all of us with (15-17 year old cars) have no mid bass or bass to speak of. Raise your hand if you A: have a new RX7 or B: have spent the money on the NEW Bose woofers and amps and now want to remove them.
I am pretty sure any component woofer mounted in the stock location like the R1, and Base Models and powered by an external amp will be a lot louder and have better mid bass response. I think my Alpines are rated to go down to 65Hz. I have a sub to pick up all the really low frequencies. I don't need low bass in my doors just some volume on the mid bass and above so the sub does not drown it out.
With all that being said boostd4 is correct that it will sound better with a partially sealed door panel and sound deadening than just using the stock door panel for the enclosure.
I would def like to deaden the doors for than plus two other reasons. Keep out road noise and keep the sound coming from the woofer and not random rattling parts of the door. I have seen some post on this does anyone have suggestions for door sound deadening
I am pretty sure any component woofer mounted in the stock location like the R1, and Base Models and powered by an external amp will be a lot louder and have better mid bass response. I think my Alpines are rated to go down to 65Hz. I have a sub to pick up all the really low frequencies. I don't need low bass in my doors just some volume on the mid bass and above so the sub does not drown it out.
With all that being said boostd4 is correct that it will sound better with a partially sealed door panel and sound deadening than just using the stock door panel for the enclosure.
I would def like to deaden the doors for than plus two other reasons. Keep out road noise and keep the sound coming from the woofer and not random rattling parts of the door. I have seen some post on this does anyone have suggestions for door sound deadening
05-21-10, 03:33 PM
#42
11.6@122mph
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would use a VLC tile or two on the broad flat portions of the door skin. Then I'd use brushable liquid deadener (second skin among others) to paint the rest and all the nooks and crannies as well as the inner door frame. I'd then paint the inside of the door panel itself with liquid deadener, and add one to two layers of closed cell foam via 3M adhesive to the inside of the door panel.
I also plan to use an epoxy to glue all the door panel stuff together. I've never had a reason to take apart the vents, switches, etc. Mine all function well and have been newly refinished. The only thing that needs to come off the door panel when removed is the door handle cup. Everything else is getting epoxied together - this is where most of my rattles/squeaks/noise come from.... hard plastics rubbing on hard fiber door panel material, etc.
I also plan to use an epoxy to glue all the door panel stuff together. I've never had a reason to take apart the vents, switches, etc. Mine all function well and have been newly refinished. The only thing that needs to come off the door panel when removed is the door handle cup. Everything else is getting epoxied together - this is where most of my rattles/squeaks/noise come from.... hard plastics rubbing on hard fiber door panel material, etc.
05-25-10, 12:07 PM
#43
11.6@122mph
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
He's done with the prototypes and has had no response from you as to a return shipping address for test fitting.
We are close.
06-21-10, 08:37 AM
#49
RAWR!!!!!!!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: RR, NC
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wonder if these would work? I know they are for a Subaru, but hell they just might work.
http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.p...cat=253&page=2
http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.p...cat=253&page=2
06-21-10, 04:50 PM
#50
Hello Club! Due to unexpected business travels I haven't even been around much for the last 3-4 weeks and apparently I have a number of PMs to catch up on! First things first however as I have received the initial beta product!
Initial Impressions: I'm not a big car stereo guy so someone more experienced may disagree. However I was VERY impressed with the quality of the beta of this product. No rough edges, everything smooth, and wow! Even instructions!
When I went to test the adapter, I ran into one small problem that the creator could not have known about and that is the wire that runs up through the speaker spot into the various door connectors. While this wire could be moved, in my feedback to the developer it seems more logical to make a 1/2" to 1" allowance for this wire and my personal expectation is the bracket will fit perfectly.
Once again I was very impressed with the initial quality of these adapters and screws and nylon spacers were included. Please see pictures for further details (apologies for iPhone pictures in a poorly lighted garage).
Initial Impressions: I'm not a big car stereo guy so someone more experienced may disagree. However I was VERY impressed with the quality of the beta of this product. No rough edges, everything smooth, and wow! Even instructions!
When I went to test the adapter, I ran into one small problem that the creator could not have known about and that is the wire that runs up through the speaker spot into the various door connectors. While this wire could be moved, in my feedback to the developer it seems more logical to make a 1/2" to 1" allowance for this wire and my personal expectation is the bracket will fit perfectly.
Once again I was very impressed with the initial quality of these adapters and screws and nylon spacers were included. Please see pictures for further details (apologies for iPhone pictures in a poorly lighted garage).