Bride Gias Low Max seats
Bride Gias Low Max seats
11-17-11, 08:48 PM
#4
You got it right I did get it from ebay and I knew they were replicas haha I just refuse to pay over $1,400 per a seat since I'm not planning to track or race it. Are you speaking of the rails that cost around $ 214.29 each and they are two individual rails instead of being attached together in a square format?
11-18-11, 10:06 AM
#6
That was the first site to check but they don't carry any Gias model rails :\
You got it right I did get it from ebay and I knew they were replicas haha I just refuse to pay over $1,400 per a seat since I'm not planning to track or race it. Are you speaking of the rails that cost around $ 214.29 each and they are two individual rails instead of being attached together in a square format?
You got it right I did get it from ebay and I knew they were replicas haha I just refuse to pay over $1,400 per a seat since I'm not planning to track or race it. Are you speaking of the rails that cost around $ 214.29 each and they are two individual rails instead of being attached together in a square format?
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07-26-12, 10:35 PM
#15
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dead thread, but how did you modify your rails? rally sport direct has rails for the FD. i wouldnt be surprised that any place that sells the seat can't get the rails for your exact car.
07-27-12, 08:53 AM
#16
Since I have been getting PMs and interests on how I got my seats installed using my stock rails I decided to make a write up to help others who are interested on doing a similar setup.
I searched for months and wasted a lot of money on purchasing official Bride rails then selling them away only to find out there was no way for it to fit. Since these Low Max seats are supposed to be buttom mounted none of these side mount rails will work for these seats especially for our cars since there is a limited amount of space. So I figured the only way to make it work would be to use the stock rails and modify them to make it work with my Gias Low Max.
First about fitment, it fits great as the base of the seat's width is slightly slimmer than the stock seats. You will have plenty of room to work with as long as you make sure to test fit before welding the seat rails. I had to constantly take the seats in and out to make sure to align the seats with the rails prior to permanmently welding them into position.
In terms of height, they are actually slightly lower than the stock seats. I have the Gias "Low Max" editions. As long as you modify your stock rails to the seats close to the stock height and position you will have no problem.
In terms of rubbing on the doors, when the seats are slid all the way back and the backing is angled just like the stock seats it rubs on the door slightly. It is nothing major though as the door closes with no problem. If you are **** about this you can raise the seats up about 10 degrees more and it won't rub.
Quality of the replicas, I'm actually shocked on how well made these are, most people don't know they are replicas until I tell them and they are in disbelief. Remember though, these are replicas so don't plan on tracking with these as they can be a safety hazard. Some of the new Gias seats now come with carbon fiber backing just like the genuine Brides and it is almost impossible to tell if they are real or not. The stitching on my seats though are "ok" they aren't the best sewn threads, the cushion that goes on the bottom where I sit came lose a little so I ended up having to melt the thread with a lighter a little to stop it from coming lose again. Other then that they are comfortable with good support.
Basically, this project is all about test fitting and templates.
The most important part, make sure to tack weld a piece of metal between the stock rails while it is still on the stock seats! This will assure you the spacing between the stock rails once you take them off to place against the Bride seats.
To start this project you will need to take apart the entire seats to have only the bottom metal base frame of the Bride seats. Once the stock seat's rails have been tack welded (on the bottom of the rails use a flat piece of metal that looks like a ruler) into position and taken off the stock seats, place the rails back into the car. Then take the bottom metal frame piece of the Bride seats and play with the fitment angle and placement on the rails that are in the car. Once you find the correct placement and angle make an outline on the rail so you will know where the weld permanently.
Label each bar so you don't lose track of which flat steel bar was towards the front or back. Right before you decide to weld the flat steel bars you should drill the aligned bolt holes while placing it up against the Bride steel frame.
Weld the flat steel bar (you will be making a square by welding the two flat steel bars onto the stock rails). These flat steel bars will need to match the bolt holes on your Bride steel frame. Once you do this you can than hammer away the tack welded metal piece that was holding the stock rails together.
You will need to make a trip to Home Depot to purchase the following: 2''W x 1/4''H flat steel bar, enough to cut 4 pieces for the brackets you will be making (in between distance of the stock rail mounts), steel washers and spacers, and steel screws and nuts.
Note: When you take the stock rails off you will have to grind off the seat belt reinforcement mounts that are welded on the stock rails. This is so that the bottom of the Bride seats can sit evenly across when you weld them on.
Unfortunately I did not document the step by step of what I did but once you view the photos below it will give a better insight of what I did. No, it isn't the prettiest setup and yes I was fed up with not being able to find the rails for the seats so I ghetto rigged it with the stock rails. Overall, it came out durable and functional.
Hope this gives an idea of what has been done. I apologize again for not documenting this properly to be easier to understand.
I searched for months and wasted a lot of money on purchasing official Bride rails then selling them away only to find out there was no way for it to fit. Since these Low Max seats are supposed to be buttom mounted none of these side mount rails will work for these seats especially for our cars since there is a limited amount of space. So I figured the only way to make it work would be to use the stock rails and modify them to make it work with my Gias Low Max.
First about fitment, it fits great as the base of the seat's width is slightly slimmer than the stock seats. You will have plenty of room to work with as long as you make sure to test fit before welding the seat rails. I had to constantly take the seats in and out to make sure to align the seats with the rails prior to permanmently welding them into position.
In terms of height, they are actually slightly lower than the stock seats. I have the Gias "Low Max" editions. As long as you modify your stock rails to the seats close to the stock height and position you will have no problem.
In terms of rubbing on the doors, when the seats are slid all the way back and the backing is angled just like the stock seats it rubs on the door slightly. It is nothing major though as the door closes with no problem. If you are **** about this you can raise the seats up about 10 degrees more and it won't rub.
Quality of the replicas, I'm actually shocked on how well made these are, most people don't know they are replicas until I tell them and they are in disbelief. Remember though, these are replicas so don't plan on tracking with these as they can be a safety hazard. Some of the new Gias seats now come with carbon fiber backing just like the genuine Brides and it is almost impossible to tell if they are real or not. The stitching on my seats though are "ok" they aren't the best sewn threads, the cushion that goes on the bottom where I sit came lose a little so I ended up having to melt the thread with a lighter a little to stop it from coming lose again. Other then that they are comfortable with good support.
Basically, this project is all about test fitting and templates.
The most important part, make sure to tack weld a piece of metal between the stock rails while it is still on the stock seats! This will assure you the spacing between the stock rails once you take them off to place against the Bride seats.
To start this project you will need to take apart the entire seats to have only the bottom metal base frame of the Bride seats. Once the stock seat's rails have been tack welded (on the bottom of the rails use a flat piece of metal that looks like a ruler) into position and taken off the stock seats, place the rails back into the car. Then take the bottom metal frame piece of the Bride seats and play with the fitment angle and placement on the rails that are in the car. Once you find the correct placement and angle make an outline on the rail so you will know where the weld permanently.
Label each bar so you don't lose track of which flat steel bar was towards the front or back. Right before you decide to weld the flat steel bars you should drill the aligned bolt holes while placing it up against the Bride steel frame.
Weld the flat steel bar (you will be making a square by welding the two flat steel bars onto the stock rails). These flat steel bars will need to match the bolt holes on your Bride steel frame. Once you do this you can than hammer away the tack welded metal piece that was holding the stock rails together.
You will need to make a trip to Home Depot to purchase the following: 2''W x 1/4''H flat steel bar, enough to cut 4 pieces for the brackets you will be making (in between distance of the stock rail mounts), steel washers and spacers, and steel screws and nuts.
Note: When you take the stock rails off you will have to grind off the seat belt reinforcement mounts that are welded on the stock rails. This is so that the bottom of the Bride seats can sit evenly across when you weld them on.
Unfortunately I did not document the step by step of what I did but once you view the photos below it will give a better insight of what I did. No, it isn't the prettiest setup and yes I was fed up with not being able to find the rails for the seats so I ghetto rigged it with the stock rails. Overall, it came out durable and functional.
Hope this gives an idea of what has been done. I apologize again for not documenting this properly to be easier to understand.
