incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Does anyone know how to do this? Or if its even possible? I have an aluminum hood for my FC and it has a ding in it. I would just fill it, but part is raised up as well. I'd like to fix it seeing how I can't find those hoods very well.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Of course its possible its basic body work. I posted a link to what you will need, you will want to buy something like this. Or you can use any old hammer if you dont want to spend any money. Hammer it down so nothing is raised up and then try it from the other side to raise it back up. It may not raise back up well and if your any good with bondo you can skim coat it and sand it down and it will never even be noticeable. Just make sure you get your bondo + hardener ratio correct so it will last and harden properly.

7 Piece Body and Fender Set

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Ok cool. All my experience w aluminum tells me that it will bend once then break off.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Can you post a picture of the damage so i can see what exactly your dealing with?

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

That's what I'm working with.

It's a 91 vert. I need it nice by next year for my wedding. I think I'm going to vinyl wrap it just because that would be 5-600 instead of a few grand for paint.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

You could get it painted for less than a grand. Im rocking a cheap $700 paint job from electrobake. It didnt come out too bad ill post a link to a picture they did a decent job. Its been about 3 years on it and have no cracking and clearcoat is still in great condition. As for the damage that is gonna be quite hard to do. Fender looks worse then the hood. But it does look fixable. Do you have any bondo work experience.


Heres a picture kinda hard to see but only one on my computer. http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb0f78bad.jpg

protunedperformance

iTrader: (8)

I don't know to much about fc's, but if that fender comes off that's what I would do first. tap as much of the dent out from behind, sand the area to remove all paint and primer, basically you want it down to bare metal. then a little bondo work! the better job of pounding the dent out and the less bondo you use the better it should come out. Basically you can tackle the hood the same. this is how I would approach the repair, I know there is other ways to do it.

also for paint I see three options.
1. go with what TheGoldenSB said, looks like a pretty good deal.
2. you might be able to remove hood and fender and just have those painted, if you can match them
3. it is possible to paint just the damaged area, then apply clear coat and blend it to match the old clear coat. a good paint shop should be able to handle this.

regardless of how you do it, good luck. hope this helps!

Also I gotta get me that harbor freight hammer set, I have a set at work I use and it works great. I didn't know harbor freight sold that.

hairball

iTrader: (8)

So is just the hood aluminum on 2nd gens? That dent will be the most difficult to get rid off basically your gonna want to work down the high spots sometimes filing it helps take some of it away won't use a die grinder the aluminum will clog the disk plus is easy to wrap or go thru the aluminum once you get it down where there's a dip you should sand it with 36 grit and feather the hard edges with 80 grit sandpaper there's stuff called all-metal it's a little lighter then bondo and sands good to and it's for aluminum actually has aluminum in it sand it with 80 until theres no hump or hard edges where youve wiped it u can use a paper towel between your hand and the panel to feel for smoothness you don't want to feel anything just a smooth hood it takes alot of practice I've been doing it for 13 years so if you have any ?s p/m me also if your fenders metal harbor freight also sells a stud welder it welds little pins on the panel you pull with a slide hammer ( comes with tool along with pins) makes life easy you can pull and tap around dent until it's resonably smooth then use bondo or all metal to fell the rest 80 grit sand until smooth then putty wipe for pinholes 180 grit final sand an prime all body fillers are porous and will soak up moisture over time must be topcoated with primer even if you wrap it

hairball

iTrader: (8)

Btw don't let all metal sit overnight without sanding it turns hard as a ****** heart once fully cure and is a pain in the rear to sand you'll need 36 grit to knock it down off you do and don't use your hand to Sand use a straight block to sand with in a criss cross motion harbor freight got them too

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

I don't have any bondo experience but I have a bit with metal work.


As for the paint job, if I go that route I have to paint it brave blue mica. I went to wesco and they told me for everything I would need to paint it it would be $1000. That's a lot. But if I run into some extra cash I'll do that.

This probably won't happen for a while either. It's the get away car for my wedding in a little under a year. So for now I'll work out the body and put a motor in it. Then figure out what to do for outside color.