6.5" rounds in FD front?
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6.5" rounds in FD front?
has anyone fit 6.5" speakers into the front of the FD? if so how much cutting is involved, and do you have a picture of what you did and the final results?
also what is the stock non-bose size for the fronts? does anyone have a picture of the stock front brackets.... ive got the bose in both my FD's and the bracket is custom formed around all the bose components and appears useless for mounting an after market set of speakers. thanks for anyone who can help. -Heath
also what is the stock non-bose size for the fronts? does anyone have a picture of the stock front brackets.... ive got the bose in both my FD's and the bracket is custom formed around all the bose components and appears useless for mounting an after market set of speakers. thanks for anyone who can help. -Heath
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I put 6.5" up front on mine but you do have to cut the speaker faceplate and the back of the speaker holder. but you can do it. It took me about 3 hours with my dremel
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anyone with any other suggestions for getting them in the door? the speakers that i have are rather shallow (polk SR6500's) but that window looks mighty close. i need to actually "dig in" but i wanted a heads up before i go making a custom bracket.
#7
Heath, shame you! That is prob. THE MOST COMMONLY ASKED QUESTION in the Interior/Exterior/Audio section, and as such has been answered prob 1200 times now lol. The ONLY thread that beats it (I think) is the "What body kit/part is this" thread
For your laziness...
For your laziness...
The stock non-Bose door speakers are actually shallow 6.5". The Factory Workshop Manual lists them as 6.3", but they would be sold as 6.5" speakers in the aftermarket -- they are 6.5" speakers for all intents and purposes. But they are shallow, and many aftermarket 6.5" speakers will be too deep. 2.5" depth is about the absolute max for mounting on the stock brackets (while cutting out the back), but even that is pushing it. I recommend 2.25" or less if you can find something you like with those dimensions. I used some shallow Eclipse 6.5" speakers (can't remember the model #) that mounted up just fine after I cut out the back plastic.
-Max
-Max
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haha judging my my post count youd think id have learned to SEARCH... but im a newb at heart. i knew about the 2.5" depth for the stock speakers but my question related more to the what if scenario where your speakers are deeper than 2.5". what i was really getting at was, what if anything can be done to push them out further (before hitting the door covering) such as building an extension bracket, and what my space constraints are.
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just checked... the polks are 2 9/16 mounting depth. thats too deep... but id only need to bring them out a bit. im not so worried now... the polks were shallower than i thought. now on to where the hell to mount the x-overs. with rear seats i dont have much left in the way of hiding spots
#10
i knew about the 2.5" depth for the stock speakers but my question related more to the what if scenario where your speakers are deeper than 2.5". what i was really getting at was, what if anything can be done to push them out further (before hitting the door covering) such as building an extension bracket, and what my space constraints are.
just checked... the polks are 2 9/16 mounting depth. thats too deep... but id only need to bring them out a bit. im not so worried now... the polks were shallower than i thought. now on to where the hell to mount the x-overs. with rear seats i dont have much left in the way of hiding spots
Oh and for the X-overs, try mounting them behind the rear panels. Should work just fine.
~Ramy
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Hehe. NOOB!! lol
I mean, it's not a big deal if they're too deep...you just won't be able to roll down the windows all the way! LOL!
Ok Heath, you need somethin better than Polks. Throw that junk away. Go with something QUALITY like Boston Acoustics, MB Quarts, etc. Your 20B deserves better
Oh and for the X-overs, try mounting them behind the rear panels. Should work just fine.
~Ramy
I mean, it's not a big deal if they're too deep...you just won't be able to roll down the windows all the way! LOL!
Ok Heath, you need somethin better than Polks. Throw that junk away. Go with something QUALITY like Boston Acoustics, MB Quarts, etc. Your 20B deserves better
Oh and for the X-overs, try mounting them behind the rear panels. Should work just fine.
~Ramy
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polks db650 fits fine in the base r1 brackets (i was able to get a pair of brackets from fritz flynn). they are under 2.5" . i bought them from crutchfield for $60.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dsfuqRy...=fp&I=107DB650
they sound much better the the rockfordfosgate fnq components i had in the bose enclosure.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dsfuqRy...=fp&I=107DB650
they sound much better the the rockfordfosgate fnq components i had in the bose enclosure.
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Hehe. NOOB!! lol
I mean, it's not a big deal if they're too deep...you just won't be able to roll down the windows all the way! LOL!
Ok Heath, you need somethin better than Polks. Throw that junk away. Go with something QUALITY like Boston Acoustics, MB Quarts, etc. Your 20B deserves better
Oh and for the X-overs, try mounting them behind the rear panels. Should work just fine.
~Ramy
I mean, it's not a big deal if they're too deep...you just won't be able to roll down the windows all the way! LOL!
Ok Heath, you need somethin better than Polks. Throw that junk away. Go with something QUALITY like Boston Acoustics, MB Quarts, etc. Your 20B deserves better
Oh and for the X-overs, try mounting them behind the rear panels. Should work just fine.
~Ramy
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for my project FD i have the polk SR series which (from what i heard on the sound board) sound really flat and smooth. the tweeter is the best part... the clarity is awesome and they arent fatiguing to listen to for a long period of time. oh, and they LOVE power! i have a set of 6.5" SR6500 separates for up front and another set of the same separates for the rear. if they sound anything like my home audio lsi9's ill be more than happy!
heres the SR6500:
mounting/review: http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/IS...int=1&page=all
aparantly this guy had trouble finding room for the massive x-overs as well. not only will i have the same problem, i have *4* to hide, and no rear bins (backseat) and i REALLY dont want to stack them in the trunk.
ill be running them with a nakamichi cd700II
powered by an audison vrx 4.300
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Yeah, I know they're cheap, but for the cheap speakers, they sound better than almost everything in their price range (IMO). I've been in car audio for a long time and have had everything from Quarts to Bostons to Diamonds to CDT Audio, JL, Image Dynamics, Zapco, etc., etc. Run your dbs through an amp and tell me if they don't sound better.
Anyway, looks like you're putting together a nice system. That Nak source unit is awesome, but what I don't like about it is you can't remove the face and keep it stealth. That would suck if it got jacked since these things are pretty rare and not cheap!
Anyway, looks like you're putting together a nice system. That Nak source unit is awesome, but what I don't like about it is you can't remove the face and keep it stealth. That would suck if it got jacked since these things are pretty rare and not cheap!
#18
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BTW, as an aside, check this out. This won't fit because it's double DIN but I'd be curious to know what it sounds like with a nice amp and speakers:
http://www.uncrate.com/men/gear/car-...be-car-stereo/
Here's another high end source unit. Ugly and pricey but super clean:
http://cgi.ebay.com/MCINTOSH-MX406-A...QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.uncrate.com/men/gear/car-...be-car-stereo/
Here's another high end source unit. Ugly and pricey but super clean:
http://cgi.ebay.com/MCINTOSH-MX406-A...QQcmdZViewItem
#19
Oh and yea, for the money being the operative word. I personally have yet to find a component set that sounds better than the Boston Acoustics Z6 (now SPZ60) Audiophile Component System. Absolutely phenomenal. The only exception is purpose-built & engineered systems like Dynaudio and ish. But that's just cheating lol.
~Ramy
PS: Funny you appear; I wanted to hollar @ ya and ask ya if you knew what the BEST shop to repair wheels in your area is. I mean 100% mint condition job, when money isn't the concern.
#20
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PS: Funny you appear; I wanted to hollar @ ya and ask ya if you knew what the BEST shop to repair wheels in your area is. I mean 100% mint condition job, when money isn't the concern.
http://www.wheeltechniques.com/
http://www.kwicksilversf.com/
Why do you ask, BTW?
#21
I still have the FC and FD so I'm still around. I just don't visit in as much as I used to. Been busy and I have other interests. I bought a house last year and instead of checking out RX-7 Club and NoPistons, I'm checking out Crate & Barrel and Williams-Sonoma now. "Modding" the house is my new thing.
Since we're on the topic, you still big on wheels?
~Ramy
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I've always been big on wheels. They're just like shoes - they can make or break the look. I used to collect Nike Air Jordans and Air Max 95s...
I'm currently rocking the stock 16s w/ Potenza S0-3s. Caught a nail in one of my 18" 3-piece Enkeis and haven't gotten around to fixing it. Curiously, I kinda like the lighter wheel. Makes the car feel nimble.
I'm currently rocking the stock 16s w/ Potenza S0-3s. Caught a nail in one of my 18" 3-piece Enkeis and haven't gotten around to fixing it. Curiously, I kinda like the lighter wheel. Makes the car feel nimble.
#23
I'm currently rocking the stock 16s w/ Potenza S0-3s. Caught a nail in one of my 18" 3-piece Enkeis and haven't gotten around to fixing it. Curiously, I kinda like the lighter wheel. Makes the car feel nimble.
FYI, I know they're not 18s, but the OEM 17" wheels are about 17 lbs IIRC. Still very light
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I have a set of 6.5 components in my front doors. I made a spacer that I fastened to the door. I used a set of Infinity referance series. Didn't mess with the stock door grill. It all fits inside...Looks stock..
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the last thing to decide is where to mount the 4 tweeters. i really dont want to cut holes in the door panels and the rear panels but if i have to i have to. i wont be upgrading the system after this (unless something happens to break). with these speakers i also have the option to mount the tweeter as a coaxial setup. if you look at the picture the cone in the center of the woofers can be removed and a mount for the tweeters can be installed. i just wonder how it going to sound.