Suspension squeak over bumps
#1
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iTrader: (3)
Suspension squeak over bumps
For several years now I've noticed my front suspension squeaking when going over bumps. I figured it was the ball joints, and it might still be, because both the upper and lower arm ball joints have about 1/8" of play up and down, but none any other direction. I already removed the lower ball joints and installed the CCFabLab ball joints, and I'm looking for an option for the upper arms also.
I also noticed my Mazdatrix sway bar end links were worn, but I've had them on for about 16 years and I've known they were ready to be replaced a few years ago. So that would explain the clunking I've heard at times.
However, I believe my squeaking issue is due to the SuperPro bushings in the lower control arms. As I was pulling them out to replace the ball joints, I noticed the same squeak I would hear over bumps. This is my second set of SuperPro bushings and I don't remember hearing this on the first set. When I was installing this set, I noticed the sleeves don't extend all the way to the ends of the bushings, they're about 1/2mm to 1mm short on each end, like in the pic. And that's for both the front and rear bushings on both lower arms. I believe I mentioned it to them years ago when I installed these but I believe I eventually decided it wouldn't be a big deal. I've also compared the length of these sleeves to the ones I pulled out of the old set and they're the same length, so I'm not sure if they were also short on the old set or maybe the ends of the bushings were a bit slimmer. I don't remember whether they've always squeaked like this or if this just started happening a few years ago. I'm thinking because the bushings are a bit longer than the sleeves, that it's rubbing on the metal in the subframe rather than the sleeve making contact. I don't remember any of the other bushings being this way. And the bushigs are pressed in all the way.
Has anyone else ever had this issue?
I also noticed my Mazdatrix sway bar end links were worn, but I've had them on for about 16 years and I've known they were ready to be replaced a few years ago. So that would explain the clunking I've heard at times.
However, I believe my squeaking issue is due to the SuperPro bushings in the lower control arms. As I was pulling them out to replace the ball joints, I noticed the same squeak I would hear over bumps. This is my second set of SuperPro bushings and I don't remember hearing this on the first set. When I was installing this set, I noticed the sleeves don't extend all the way to the ends of the bushings, they're about 1/2mm to 1mm short on each end, like in the pic. And that's for both the front and rear bushings on both lower arms. I believe I mentioned it to them years ago when I installed these but I believe I eventually decided it wouldn't be a big deal. I've also compared the length of these sleeves to the ones I pulled out of the old set and they're the same length, so I'm not sure if they were also short on the old set or maybe the ends of the bushings were a bit slimmer. I don't remember whether they've always squeaked like this or if this just started happening a few years ago. I'm thinking because the bushings are a bit longer than the sleeves, that it's rubbing on the metal in the subframe rather than the sleeve making contact. I don't remember any of the other bushings being this way. And the bushigs are pressed in all the way.
Has anyone else ever had this issue?
#2
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
My purple bushings on FD dont squeek yet (10yrs, but only ~15k miles).
I used lots of grease at both the pivot and where they rub the suspension mounting points (like yours) and am careful not to clean the visble grease off now.
On my FC though I got squeeks over many more miles and too much cleaning and had to re-grease. My mazdatrix swaybar ends also wore and would sound rattly over bumps on FC.
I used lots of grease at both the pivot and where they rub the suspension mounting points (like yours) and am careful not to clean the visble grease off now.
On my FC though I got squeeks over many more miles and too much cleaning and had to re-grease. My mazdatrix swaybar ends also wore and would sound rattly over bumps on FC.
#3
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
And yup, my bushings also stuck out past the metal pivot and took some work to get into the suspension mounting points.
The deformable bushings need some preload (why they fit tight) so the arms dont move front to back changing toe (like stock sliding bushings do).
Delrin or ironwood bushings wont need the preload since they dont deform in use.
The deformable bushings need some preload (why they fit tight) so the arms dont move front to back changing toe (like stock sliding bushings do).
Delrin or ironwood bushings wont need the preload since they dont deform in use.
#4
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iTrader: (3)
Ok, I guess I'll just grease the ends then. I wondered if that's what I was going to have to do.
I don't want to attract dirt, but I'm tired of the squeaking. Did you just apply extra SuperPro grease or something else?
Regarding the end links, I'm going to try the stock type ones from Rock Auto and see how long they last. My originals were bent when I removed them years ago, which is one of the reasons I went with the ones from MT. I was hopeful the heim joint ends would last forever lol. I was thinking about getting the ones from Improved Racing since they use good joints, but I figured I'd try the stock type again first.
I don't want to attract dirt, but I'm tired of the squeaking. Did you just apply extra SuperPro grease or something else?
Regarding the end links, I'm going to try the stock type ones from Rock Auto and see how long they last. My originals were bent when I removed them years ago, which is one of the reasons I went with the ones from MT. I was hopeful the heim joint ends would last forever lol. I was thinking about getting the ones from Improved Racing since they use good joints, but I figured I'd try the stock type again first.
Last edited by speedjunkie; 05-23-24 at 07:39 PM.
#5
Racecar - Formula 2000
Ok, I guess I'll just grease the ends then. I wondered if that's what I was going to have to do.
I don't want to attract dirt, but I'm tired of the squeaking. Did you just apply extra SuperPro grease or something else?
Regarding the end links, I'm going to try the stock type ones from Rock Auto and see how long they last. My originals were bent when I removed them years ago, which is one of the reasons I went with the ones from MT. I was hopeful the heim joint ends would last forever lol. I was thinking about getting the ones from Improved Racing since they use good joints, but I figured I'd try the stock type again first.
I don't want to attract dirt, but I'm tired of the squeaking. Did you just apply extra SuperPro grease or something else?
Regarding the end links, I'm going to try the stock type ones from Rock Auto and see how long they last. My originals were bent when I removed them years ago, which is one of the reasons I went with the ones from MT. I was hopeful the heim joint ends would last forever lol. I was thinking about getting the ones from Improved Racing since they use good joints, but I figured I'd try the stock type again first.
#7
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
I'd use grease intended for rubber. etc. That way you're not taking any chance of degrading the bushings. Here's a link to some: https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...BAgEEBA&adurl=
Now I just need to find a replacement for the upper arm ball joint. But I'm just going to pump some more grease into it for now, I only get so many months out of the year to drive the car. That can be a winter project, if I even find a solution.
Thanks guys!
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#8
Racecar - Formula 2000
Most greases without petroleum oils in them should be OK for rubber, plastic, etc. In my experience, almost any grease/oil will eventually wear off or get washed off.
#9
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (17)
I installed superpro bushings on the rear toe and trailing arms and it would squeak in bumps and drove me nuts so I swapped the toes and trailings out for stock and done.
I now got some Mazda Motorsports bushings now to be pressed and will be selling the toe links and trailing arms set with new superpro bushings already pressed.
I now got some Mazda Motorsports bushings now to be pressed and will be selling the toe links and trailing arms set with new superpro bushings already pressed.
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ptrhahn (05-27-24)
#10
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
The stuff that comes with SuperPro doesn't last long. When I still had them, I got some aftermarket grease that was ridiculously sticky (like it wouldn't come off with soap, I used gloves to handle it), but I can't remember what it was, but it seemed to last longer.
To me, this is just a urathane bushing problem, or any one that rotates like that. I went back to stock, I'm not convinced urarthane is better.
To me, this is just a urathane bushing problem, or any one that rotates like that. I went back to stock, I'm not convinced urarthane is better.
#11
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Nyogel is the super super sticky synthetic grease.
It is usually used to dampen movement (popular with sim rig users).
I used Nyogel 767A to keep my oil control rings, side/corner seals in on my last rebuild. Too aggressive! Very hard to remove corner seals to put apex seal springs in and had to fog the engine with WD40 through the exhaust port to get it to spin.
It is usually used to dampen movement (popular with sim rig users).
I used Nyogel 767A to keep my oil control rings, side/corner seals in on my last rebuild. Too aggressive! Very hard to remove corner seals to put apex seal springs in and had to fog the engine with WD40 through the exhaust port to get it to spin.
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Valkyrie (05-27-24)
#12
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iTrader: (3)
I installed superpro bushings on the rear toe and trailing arms and it would squeak in bumps and drove me nuts so I swapped the toes and trailings out for stock and done.
I now got some Mazda Motorsports bushings now to be pressed and will be selling the toe links and trailing arms set with new superpro bushings already pressed.
I now got some Mazda Motorsports bushings now to be pressed and will be selling the toe links and trailing arms set with new superpro bushings already pressed.
Nyogel is the super super sticky synthetic grease.
It is usually used to dampen movement (popular with sim rig users).
I used Nyogel 767A to keep my oil control rings, side/corner seals in on my last rebuild. Too aggressive! Very hard to remove corner seals to put apex seal springs in and had to fog the engine with WD40 through the exhaust port to get it to spin.
It is usually used to dampen movement (popular with sim rig users).
I used Nyogel 767A to keep my oil control rings, side/corner seals in on my last rebuild. Too aggressive! Very hard to remove corner seals to put apex seal springs in and had to fog the engine with WD40 through the exhaust port to get it to spin.
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