still trying to figure this thing out. Im not getting any fuel to the car. so u popped the UIM off and pulled the wires to the injectors. im getting. .84V with the key on. and 1.01V to the injector while its cranking. Can anyone tell me what is going on or point me in the right direction?

thanks
Billy

 

45 views and not one response? Cool.

 

How an injector is wired:

Wire 1: 12v+
Wire 2: Ground to ECU trigger

Wire 1 is power and all 4 injectors should get 12v (usually from the same source). Wire 2 is grounded by the ECU when it wants the injector to fire.

Check your fuses and your power routing and make sure that the injectors are getting power.

Impromptu wiring diagram:
[______Wire 1_____]-----------[_____Wire 2_____]
Battery ---> Fuse ---> Injector ---> ECU (ground).

 

I'm getting power to everything else, my fuses are fine. The car starts with ether. The laptop connects and stays connected. I can't seem to figure this out.

 

If you're not getting 12V at the injector you have an open circuit somewhere. Do you have power at the fuse? Do you have power at the relay? Is the relay turning on?

 

This may not be pertinent but I did it.
I inadvertently had the ECU connected and ran it from the stock fuse box,and whenever the car went to start the Relay would shut down the box to acommodate the start up.
12volts would be at the box,switch on,shut off when starting,the return when you had the key back to on.
Of course the ECU is now wired to the ignition.

 

I wired my 12V to a source by the lead coils. I can feel the relays click on. I'll have to check for voltage at the fuse when I get home. It was popped when I received the haltech and harness. I put a lesser amp one in to be safe incase something was wrong. It hasn't popped yet. I'll have to check some things out when I get home. Thanks a lot for the help guys. Much appreciated.

I'm thinking about going Sprint RE instead. So I get a fresh harness and better management. No one near me knows haltech..

 

There should always be 12v at the injector pin when the key is turned forward. Check for continuity between the 12v wire of the injector and the respective end at the fuse.

Also, SprintRE is a Haltech also... i guess you meant that know one knows older Haltechs (The idea is the same, the difference is how easy the systems are to use and learn). I'm working on a friends E6K that has more features and data points than my Sprint RE.

 

Yeah, I'm aware that Sprint is haltech as well. I've also considered buying a new E6K harness but it's like $500..

No one in my area tunes any haltech. I've just heard that sprint re is easy to use. My shop has an account with Apexi, but I don't really want a PFC. I'm pretty sure this wiring issue is the only thing holding me back.

Could it also be a bad injector driver???
I'm going to work on it somemore later..

 

The injector driver has nothing to do with having 12v at the injector plug. The driver only provides the other terminal on the injector a path to ground to completing the circuit. (if wired properly, one pin on the injector plug should have 12v even with the ECU disconnected)


Having dealt with both recently, the SprintRE is easier to use. But, mainly its just because of the more modern windows interface. With the e6k and SprintRE you follow almost the exact same steps and settings to get the car running.

 

So, im getting power to all of the relays, they are all clicking on. as for the fuses, im not getting anything from the red/white wire (ecu 12v). at that fuse. where should i go from here? im getting ignition and all the other stuff. im really trying to do this right.. with a hacked up harness appearently.

 

Just because the relay is clicking doesn't mean you're getting power through the relay. Have you used a voltmeter or test light to confirm?

Here is a link to the E6X diagram. Power distribution is the same as the E6K and the diagram is much easier to read. In the top left corner you'll see the path power takes from the battery, through the relay, to the fuse block, and then to the injectors and ECU.

 

im having,the same issue! for somr reason wen probeing,the,primary injector clip tips I got 0.84 I shuvd multimeter probes into the injector female spades and got,12volts.

my car still wont fire up even tho,the clips get 12volts and bottom plugs are dry.

got fuel in rails and plenty of spark.

 

I was having a simar issue, the car would not start and I had no voltage when cracking over the engine. Come to find out I was using the wrong relay.

 

Just curious... How do you verify voltage coming to the injector? Do not measure voltage between the terminals of the connector! Your Voltage meter ground lead should touch ground anywhere else on the car not the second wire of the connector. Second wire is not the ground until ECU commands.. As soon as you turn ignition key ON without starting up the car you should be getting 12 volts to the one wire on the injector connector... if not than trace it back... 30 and 87 on the injector relay should have 12v when 85 has 12v (ignition on), if 85 does not have 12v when ignition is ON then than trace back that wire connected to 85 or run another ignition wire(can be from anywhere)... If you are getting 12v on 85 then check continuity between 86 and ground (anywhere on the car) if no continuity then trace your 86 wire or run another ground wire to this terminal of the relay. If you have continuity on 86 with ground and 12v on 85 then 30 and 87 both should have 12v if one of them does not then you have bad relay.. Its messy but I hope you make sense out of it

 

yeah, i ended up selling the e6k. picked up a sprint re.