Brian, I think you miss-understood what I am saying, I know that the air/coolant correction maps are to change the fuel and timing maps based on tempratures... and once they are properly set they should never have to be adjusted again... at least that is the idea.

all i am saying is that one persons correction maps will be different then anothers...and one of those reasons can be as simple as one persons tune could have been done in the summer and the other persons map could have been done in the winter. Most tuners never really "tune" the correction maps for year round use because it would be impossible to do so in a single dyno tune session.

my personal preference to setting correction maps is to find the normal operating temperature of the engine set the correction maps to zero... tune the base maps and only make adjustments to the correction maps as the temps change

I originally tuned my 20b on a 95 degree summer day and made estimates on the correction maps for cold days...turns out i was pretty far off now that its 35 degrees out. i had to spend some time leaning out both the coolant temp and air temp correction maps...when i get back from xmas i will spend some time working on the winter cold start.

 

I probably did musunderstand you even after I read it twice. I frequently do that on these damned forums.

This is where I do honestly disagree. I think the corrections maps are universal to the engine and once set should remain static from car to car. IMO, the only thing that should change is the base map itself. Take a look at a factory-driven car -- it's setup for all year round. I beg the question rhetorically, "why can't that same thing exist with standalone-tuned cars?" We don't see drastic differences in how a factory-built car runs when it goes from summer to winter. I think the answer there lay in having the correct fuel-based corrections maps once the base map is tuned properly, hence my argument for making them static and not changing them from season to season.

That's the correct way to do it. All tuning has to be done with normal water and air temps, with no fuel-based corrections done, and then the corrections maps set if they are not already placed in there static.

I originally tuned my 20b on a 95 degree summer day and made estimates on the correction maps for cold days...turns out i was pretty far off now that its 35 degrees out. i had to spend some time leaning out both the coolant temp and air temp correction maps...when i get back from xmas i will spend some time working on the winter cold start.[/QUOTE]

I had similar difficulty last year with my red car on the air temp/fuel correction map as well. There was that perfect day where I was driving up to Oklahoma where at the start it was a nice 80* outside and then, bout an hour later, I drove through an arctic cold front where the temps dropped into the 40's. It gave me a better glimpse at the function of the air temp/fuel correction map in-the-live than having to wait several months.

Tell you what, give mine a try and see what you think. I'll post them up here in this thread.

B

 

Ok, just re-wired my CAS, not using any of the stock FC harness and nothing has changed. Next I plan to take the alternator off and install BDCs new map.

 

The FC CAS sucks, I was never able to get the intermitent noise completely gone at idle.

The FD CAS on the other hand, very clean.

 

Yeah, I am looking into affordable ways to get rid of the cas. :/

I fully disconnected the alternator, and nothing changed. I am going to do a compression test soon after I get to seattle and send my primary injectors off to witch hunter. I really hope they are messed up.

 

I am having a slightly similar problem on e6x and I am pretty sure its lean on start. I also noticed my post start enrichment is off. I must have accidently changed that is it recommended to use post start? and when exactly doest that correction kick on? after it starts or when its cranking?

Edit: After some research I guess post start kicks on after it hits max cranking rpm and I should mess with the other corrections rather than turn the post cranking to a "below" temp setting

 

First off, in cold weather I always keep a battery tender on the car. $30 from sears and it keeps the battery at 100%. We've been having some really cold weather in NY and you can't beat a battery tender.

To tune the cold start maps, I usually have the haltech online on the coolant comp screen and zeroed out but keep an eye on the arrow that shows which bar you are on.

As the car starts, if it dies (it will die when cold) I page up a few times until it idles. I then tap the gas and make sure I can drive a few feet, if it cuts off, I just page up or arrow up now a few more times to make sure the car has enough fuel to stay running as well as drive.

I stay here until it warms up to the next bar to the right and do the same thing, except now its easier since you already have your starting bar. When I had my haltech, I did this once and never had to do it again. I will usually play with the primer map to get the car started while cranking and after that, I will adjust the coolant maps to compensate and keep it running.

This winter with a new tune on E85, I had major problems starting when it was below 0 so I had to do the same thing again. I can now start the car from outside and not touch the gas, it will start and I can drive immediately so I don't wake the neighbors. At 80deg I use 4ms to start, below 0 I needed to use 12ms to get close to starting!

Just curious, when cranking, what kind of timing advance do you guys use?

Anthony

 

Good post

I'm running 3deg advance on the IGN crank map in my E6X, I don't know whether that map is added to OVERALL advance, or if that map is the sole advance map used while cranking though.

 

I added alot of fuel in the priming map and it makes my car start alot better. It seems like its a little ridiculous but to get it to turn over on the first crank in cold weather it is set at like 250 MS at 30 degrees F in the priming map.

 

I would like to know the same thing.

 

Well I think I fixed my problem. I added TONS of fuel to my coolant correction map in the cold areas and it starts just fine on the first try now! Yay.

I noticed that after the first few cranks if I WOT it, it would run on 1 rotor for like 3 seconds, and then suddenly break free and both rotors would work. I talked with some people and they said to try and add a ridiculous amount of fuel in the correction map. ( I went from like 30% correction to 110%) and it worked great!

Thanks all.

Now I just need to figure out how to make my fuel cut on decel work. I thought it was working, but my injectors are still at 1.1 ms on decel if I have it on or not. :/ My AFRs still jump to 20, but I was told my injectors should be off completely if its working right?



Those are my current settings.

 

You have the reset set at 8000 rpm. That means that after you hit fuel cut on your first down rev you then have to 8000 rpm before it resets and will allow cut on down rev again. This value should be set around 500 rpm higher than the cut rpm.

 

That's just for cranking.

B

 

Thanks! Works perfectly! My car is getting amazingly better by the day.

Just drove this pass today. Was amazing.

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sour...=UTF8&t=h&z=14