Ok, I have finally got fed up with this. lol. I have had it for a while, but now that it is getting cold and I don't drive my car as much, I am killing my battery trying to start the car.

This is what happens I don't know why yet. I start cranking it, nothing for 3 or 4 puffs, then it will like STOP as if the timing was off and it stopped the rotor, then it will puff one more time and start. O.o

Any ideas? lol I was fine with it, but not it's just annoying. It NEVER just starts right now like a normal car.

Any help would be awesome!
~Tweak

 

sounds juvenile but recheck your plug wires? my friend pulled mine off and put them back on one day while working on my car and he mis mattched leading with trailing so while cranking it sounded like that then it would start to but not run well at all so i dub checked it all again and bam started right up but now i have tps connector pin backing out need to solder them issues

 

ummm.. I haven't changed them since the dyno where it ran just fine (still did the weird start thing) so I don't think it is the spark plug wires. I WILL CHECK THEM NONE THE LESS!

Thanks for the idea!

 

Is your battery good and strong?
My car was not starting very good or at all because of a weak battery and the cold weather.
Steve

 

Yes, it is/was strong, it's just that I have to crank it at least 4 times before it will even semi start / idle.

In the morning, the first crank, no matter how many seconds I crank it will NEVER EVER ever start. It wont even do the stop thing.

key off, key on

start again, crank crank crank crank crank puff stop crank start die.

then each time after that it will idle a little longer before it dies till it holds idle as normal.

 

sounds like the ign cranking map or ign coolant or ign air map is fuxored, if the engine is cranking back on itself.

You can probably view whats having what effect on the ign from a data page or data log, certainly you can watch the calculated advance as you crank

Try turning off the ign air and ign coolant for a quick test start.

This is a tuning issue and there are several things that can be the actual cause, the best case however is that you turn most of the correction maps off (if there on) other than the coolant fuel correction which you need and work backwards to fix the issue.

Is the coolant temp fuel correction tuned?

rotary engines need a lot more fuel as the coolant temp drops to start. At right around 55-65 deg F there is an astronomical increase in how much fuel needs to be added for a graceful start, like 30 percent more for a 10 degree drop.

 

Awesome, awesome. Thank you.

I'm looking at my cranking map, and it is BTDC Angle: 10 all the way across the board.

Also my zero throttle ignition is 10 all the way.

Air temp, and coolant temp for ignition are 0 all the way.




Temp | Correction
-40 -- 45
-12 -- 44
15 --- 43
30 --- 41
42 --- 39
50 --- 38
59 --- 36
67 --- 34
75 --- 32
83 --- 31
91 --- 29

Hows that look?

When the car does idle, if I tap the gas before it is pretty warm it instantly dies.

I just looked at .... the 13bt stock s4-s5.map that is posted on the forum, and the maps looks a LOT different than all of mine. A LOT more fuel correction 115 at 42. Looks like this is definitely my problem?

Maybe this is why I have been running so hot all the time.... O.o

 

Thats not enough fuel in my view, this depends on injector size, fuel pressure and other factors but in my experience by 70F you should be looking at over 50%.

This IS NOT why your car runs hot.

 

Ok, so could the lack of fuel cause this problem? or does it really have to do with the timing?

 

For what the cold cranking problem?

 

Yes. That is the problem I would like to fix first.

 

just a little FYI,
in my experience, having the IGN CRANK map off by 5* in either direction will cause kickback when cranking. i'm not sure if this will help in your case.

but i would try moving the ign crank map up or down 5* from where it currently is.

 

Also, FWIW, I had this kickback issue on my E6X for the entire period it was experiencing trigger issues. I'd tried pretty much every value imagineable in the IGN crank map, all sorts of stuff but the issue would occur every 2-3 cranks (attempts to start) when the car was running with a intermittent trigger loss problem. Can't say exactly how they're related however because to this day my trigger problem seems to have gone away with only voodoo dolls and magic potions

 

Keep those dolls happy!


Too much fuel on the primer crank map can cause kick back. Also the wrong exit rpm setting from crank to running.
It's a combination of a lot of things.
Start with 0deg on the ignition start map. Lower all the fuel on the crank map and start from there.
All of the above would do no good if you're having trigger issues as stated above.

 

Awesome, ok.

FIRST, I just want to say I think one of my RE primary injectors are being stupid / leaking or something. Randomly while my car is idling my ARFs will jump to +16 and my haltech says the my injector time is still the same 2.4 ms. I have some new cleaned injectors on the way to take that out of the equation.

In the past I have thought I had some trigger issues, because my tach would BOUNCE up on decel any time over 3,000 rpm, but every haltech log slows a steady decel and no problems. It still has the problem on decel, I was told that it has to be the tach.

Also most likely related to the injectors (or maybe timing) when I idle I have a steady constant miss. It helped to really lower the zero throttle fuel map, but it would just want to die instead of miss when I got to low. Another reason I think one of the primary injectors are being weird.

Would it help at all to upload a couple logs of my car starting?

After changing my coolant correction map to mirror some of the factory e8/11 maps in the sticky, it seems to start and hold idle easier. Although REALLY ruff, it doesn't die after it starts.

I'm about to go out and log my start up. I will try disabling all the correction maps before I do so.

I hope this is all do to one of the 540cc injectors being stupid. :/ Winter break is about to start, I think I will re-wire my cas wiring. Right now I am just using the stock wiring from the stock harness. I thought that would be ok. I guess not.

Thanks again for all the help guys! Someday, just someday, I know this car is going to run and start like a normal car!

~Tweak

 

Why are you using 'zero throttle map'?

 

lol, I <3 it. Is there any specific reason NOT to use the zero throttle map? Right now my idle changes between 700 900 and 1,300 rpm randomly, it would be a pain to continually have to change each rpm map every time my car is having a bad day. :/

 

Unless you have a setup that delivers very little and inconsistent vacuum at idle (think cam'd Vtwin motorcycle, maybe PP rotary engine etc) , then don't use zero throttle map.

As a general rule don't use the zero map with a BAC or idle stepper because it doesn't allow for load change adjustments which are happening constantly with either.

 

Ok, I guess that sounds good. I am not using a bac or idle stepper. Why is the general rule to not use the zero throttle map? Is there a specific reason it is a bad idea? Will it cause problems? It has helped me a lot on full off deceleration, getting rid of the jerkiness without having to change every cell as the rpms and vac changes.

 

Because load fluctuates at idle, the zero map does not do anything to deal with this as it knows RPM and injection time only. You should only use the zero map if you have to for the reasons I listed previously. Changing barometric pressures are also not factored in when this map is active, though perhaps they are if the barometric pressure correction is set up.

There should be no jerkiness decelerating beyond the initial drivetrain lash. You don't need to tune every cell to accomplish this.

 

Hmmmm.. ok weird. I was under the impression that it was a bonus feature or "the cherry on top". I will just wait until my injectors get here before I do anything crazy.

Thanks.
~Tweak

 

your temprature correction maps will be directly related to your base tune map that you started with.... If your base map was created on a hot summer day then your correction maps would would reflect that on cold days by using bigger percentages... if you tuned your car on a cold day then more then likely your correction maps will be lower percentages... it really depends if the corrction maps were "zero'd out" when the base map was created

 

I was wondering if I could get an example (other than the maps in the sticky) of peoples corrections maps with 550 primaries? Would really help me see if these are off by a lot.

 

I disagree with this. The corrections' maps' purpose is for temperature compensation to keep a base tune running within the range of AFR's needed when air temps change (from climate) and while a vehicle is warming up. They should remain static and not have to be changed when seasons themselves change. It defeats their purpose. If a corrections' map for fuel is being altered when seasons change, it means the base fuel maps themselves aren't correct. In that case, they need to be setup on a normal day when warmed up with static corrections maps that do not change.

B

 

Mike, email me your current map and I'll update the water/air fuel corrections maps. Been trying a new pair the past few days. We'll see if it helps.

B