i currently am using a switched supply off of the harness in the passengers footwell. i dont think that it is able to supply eneough current because i am using that line to switch turn on my haltech's relays. if i unplug one of the relays everything is fine, as soon as i add the third relay it does not work. where can i find a better +12v switched source that does not shut off during cranking?

yes i searched

thanks

 

There's actually two switched +12v circuits. One circuit is on during cranking and one circuit is not.

How about finding the switched +12v source for the OE ecu?

 

im pretty sure thats the one i have. the wire that the previous owner was using came off the main wiring harness. only problem is that when i get more than 2 relays the voltage drops to low to activate the coil inside the relay.
is there 1 wire coming off the key switch that is on all the time no matter if the key is in the on or cranking positions?

 

Relays require very little current to switch, and I can't think of any circuit in the car that couldn't handle three relays added to it. Even so, you shouldn't be adding stuff to circuits if you don't know what they are. If you're doing a Haltech install you should have studied the FSM wiring diagrams and be familiar enough with the car's electrical system to choose suitable switched power sources. Sorry if you think I sound like an ***, but you sound like you're a little out of your depth...

 

nz is correct, relays require very little current to switch, but i suppose if your battery is not in good condition, the voltage in your electrical system could drop low enough during cranking for that to happen. not likely, but possible. check your battery voltage during cranking. does it crank slow?

 

ok. i just tapped the 12v switched to the stock ignition switch. also, you can use 12v switched form the coils.


http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm

go to the very very bottom.

i wired mine into the ignition assembly, but the tan wires coming from the coils can be used as well.

grey wire goes to switched, and another goes directly to the battery. the ground goes to.. ground. or better yet, to battery negative.

 

i did not install the e6x. the previous owner did. i switched to an e8 and now i am having problems with the relays. before (same wire) it powered 2 relays, now with 3 relays it does not work. with nothing connected to the wire it reads 12v. with the main ecu relay and the fuel pump relay it reads 6.5v with the coil relay it reads 4.3v.

battery is fine. during cranking battery voltage drops to 10v according to the haltech. i have also tried using a booster box and im having the same problem.

nzconvertible no offense taken.

im not sure that the origonal owner tapped the correct wire anyway. i would use the power line to the coil but id rather not run another line in to the engine bay if at all possible.

if any one knows off the top of their head what color wire that is swithced 12v power that is on during cranking coming from the ingition switch i would appreciate the help

 

I'm pretty sure that's connected to something it shouldn't be. Rewire it using a known switch 12V supply.

Why are you asking here instead of referring to the wiring diagrams? Anyone providing you the answer is probably going to have to look it up too. You need to be using them to do a proper install, particularly if you're reworking someone else's.

Personally I'd go to the fuse box rather than the ignition switch.

 

In S5's its ECU plug 1 pin A. There are 2 more wires with switched 12V on at all times, that are high (er) current in the green plug that also caries the wires to the wipers. these normally power the injectors and smog relays.


Get out the FSM like everyone else has told you, take notes, ... Little advice, ground the haltech to the block. Ground your widebands to the block on the same spot. ground that same spot with another thicker wire (8ga) to the battery and chassis, small grounding differentials cause problems with all sensors especially wide bands.

The ECU's main power wires can come of either the battery or the stock wire harnes

 

Like SirCygnus said, simply use the 12V switched by one relay to switch the other relay. The propagation delay will be around 50 ms, but that is most likely acceptable.

On most standalone setups, a single relay is used to power most on-while-cranking devices anyway.

 

Its alittle confusing, And dont quote me on this, I did it and it worked for me.

You will need switched 12v as you already know.

stated as above you can take it from the coils ( the tan ones ). But I decided to leave those alone.

Then you can use a multimeter and check or the fsm.

But incase its a bit overwelming right now. try this.

you have 4 positions on the key lock

off
acc ( key in )
start ( we want this and on )
on ( yep this one is on )

You need power when its on start and on . If you check the fsm body electrical section go to the ignition switch and you will find the IG1 plug ( follow the thick wires from the key lock then it will divide into 4 connectors I believe ( sorry dont remember exactly ). And it should be a black white wire . follow it down, tap into it, heat wrap and bring it over to the haltech side.

Oh and check to make sure with a multimeter to double check and print out the wiring diagram.


you can check wiring diagram section 50-15 and you will see ignition 1 and the -- -- -- wire where it goes .

Hope that helps.


We all enjoy these cars and some times it gets overwelming.