What a fucken bummer!

I set up a tune day, and flew out Steve Kan. Car was running on a base map to break. I knew timing was off, but figured it would be taken care of while tuning.

Anyway, I Stabbed the CAS, and I am able to zero out timing. However, once I give it throttle, the timing retards like 40 degrees.

Any idea what could be causing this?

I have tried a different crank, and rechecked wires several times, but no luck. Coil's are firing. I just have no idea what could be causing the problem.

Has anyone had an experience like this?

 

Sounds like trigger edge is wrong, or the polarity on your reluctor wires is backwards.

 

No trigger edge adjustment (internal reluctor setup E6K) Also checked wiring on trigger, polarity is correct.

Steve is saying that even if the polarity was incorrect the timing would stay consistent at 30deg advancing. In my case, the timing would stay zero'd until I give it throttle. This is in the locked position, so it should not be moving.

 

try another cas

 

I did. It did not make any difference.

 

I have read of some others having problems with EMI interference when the distributor wires were ran to close to spark plug and ignition wires. Especially on the e6k. Any validity to this?

I may try rerouting these wires and sheilding them tomorrow.

Any other suggestions?

 

this usually manifests as instability at low speed, or with possible detonation at high speed.

Try resseting the haltech back to default, and reloading a different e6k map, maybe even reloading the firmware... I have had other issues in the past with stuff like dead PWM's that where fixed with a firmware reload.

 

Are you sure it's retarding?
Shooting the pulley with a timing gun would move the mark to the right or clockwise?

I'm assuming you have the timing locked?


-Ted

 

Timing was moving counter clockwise.

We seperated the trigger wire from the rest of the ignition wires, and ran the trigger wire through the other side of the car. It seems to have fixed the problem. Once on the dyno though, more problems cropped up. For whatever reason the secondaries were lagging, and would not come on as they should. We zapped them with 12 volts to make sure it was not the injectors, but the problem persisted. I am going to send the haltech of to the factory to rule this out as a source for any of the problems I am having.

On a semi positive note I made 340RWHP at 10PSI before the problem popped up. Oh well, time to start doing some more sorting on the car. Hopefully, I can get everything figured out.

 

I had same problem on an e11 with hall sensor. Crispeed set me straight in 10
minutes on this forum. I'd pm that guy!

 

In the K there are 2 options, Adaptive and Fixed, if the timing IS locked and you are getting drift on the pully ONLY when you rev the engine, that is the giveaway on the wires being backwards or the trigger edge setting being wrong.

Now, im also inclined to ask what is your ignition setup? MSD, stock, LS1 coils?

The problem may lie on the output side.

 

This would be plausible if I did not plug in another E6k ECU and had it work perfectly. Based on that test something has to be wrong with that ecu, don't you think?

 

did you use the same map that you are attempting to use now?

Try reloading the firmware and fully reloading a new map.

 

Yes, thats possible, usually swapping to a different ECU with the exact same map and the otherone works perfect then there might be a problem with the box. However, haltech USA cant do repairs on older DOS systems, they have to be shipped to australia, so you might want to consider sending it. What they can do is test the ECU and see if they notice anything wrong, and then ship it to OZ, costs are about 75-150 dollars depending on repairs.

I dont think a firmware reflash would be necessary, but you can try reloading the stock base map and then reload your old map or a different map just in case there's something funny with yours.

 

On 1.61 with an E8 I had dead PWM's, spent hours trying to get them work, loaded and reloaded maps.

I reloaded 1.61 firmware and they just started working...

Random, maybe but it couldn't hurt.

 

He's using a K, not an E8/E11. Very different. At best reload the default base map, at worst the is something wrong with the units and it needs to get sent for repairs.

 

different but reloading the firmware still couldn't hurt

 

Haltech has it now. I sent it to you didn't I? Anyways, it was sent off to Haltech in Australia. Hopefully, they will be able to do something with it.

 

Let us know what Haltech says when they are done diagnosing it...

I had a similar problem with my E11v2. It had a stumble @ 2500rpm. After messing with the filters and gains... moving the CAS wires etc... I decided to recheck the timing and found it was retarding 30 degrees... So I decided to redo the CAS wiring and I still had the problem. I swapped the trigger ground for the home ground and the problem seems to have gone away

 

Well, now that you mention it, if you look at the wiring diagram for any ECU you'll see that the ground wire for both main trigger and home trigger is the same, so it shouldnt matter which ground wire you use, but then again, they put separate wires for a reason so i guess its worth wiring it up the right way.