Haltech stock s4 t2 water temp sensor calibration chart?
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stock s4 t2 water temp sensor calibration chart?
Hello, I am getting tired of having to continually translate my readings that I have been told are 7 degress higher every time I look at my temps. I see 204 and freak out, and then realise it's really only 197 and I really don't have much to worry about. Also I'm not sure if the sensor is perfectly linear or if it is off by 7 at 180 and off by 9 or 10 at 200? I donno.
Has anybody been able to get some numbers that I could throw in there to make me feel better? I should have took the time and put in the haltech water temp sensor, but I thought I saw a chart where I could use the stock one. :/
Thanks
~Tweak
Has anybody been able to get some numbers that I could throw in there to make me feel better? I should have took the time and put in the haltech water temp sensor, but I thought I saw a chart where I could use the stock one. :/
Thanks
~Tweak
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Anyways, ARGS I so would have done this. Is it just a generic GM sensor or something special? Part numbers?
I am so right now.
Thanks
~Tweak
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Well now I feel silly I guess...
I thought the problem was that I don't feel confident in the sensor reading correctly? I have not seen any data on the stock sensor, and maybe it only reads 2 degress high at 212 and I start to roast my coolant seals? I mean ... is it just me, or do I have some incorrect numbers in my head? Our thermostat begins to open at 180 ... our coolant seals fry at 210 ... That gives 30 degrees of happy engine area, and 7 degrees would be almost 25% of the happy area... my car likes to sit at 205-208 (198-201 really I hope) ... should I not be scared?
Blowing my engine because I didn't calibrate or use the right water sensor is a big deal to me... maybe not to you guys..
Also, I don't have a gauge, I am just reading the temp right off my laptop screen that is mounted on my dash.
I thought the problem was that I don't feel confident in the sensor reading correctly? I have not seen any data on the stock sensor, and maybe it only reads 2 degress high at 212 and I start to roast my coolant seals? I mean ... is it just me, or do I have some incorrect numbers in my head? Our thermostat begins to open at 180 ... our coolant seals fry at 210 ... That gives 30 degrees of happy engine area, and 7 degrees would be almost 25% of the happy area... my car likes to sit at 205-208 (198-201 really I hope) ... should I not be scared?
Blowing my engine because I didn't calibrate or use the right water sensor is a big deal to me... maybe not to you guys..
Also, I don't have a gauge, I am just reading the temp right off my laptop screen that is mounted on my dash.
Last edited by TweakGames; 09-07-08 at 09:21 PM.
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Coolant seals don't melt at 210. You'll have to get it hotter than that. So you really don't have much idea what the temp is though other than the anecdotal advice that the stock sensor is slightly off. I've heard the same and have never taken the time to work up a stock sensor. Never had the need.
Easy way then is the bolt in sensor. Drop me an email if you want one. ludwigmotorsports@insightbb.com.
Easy way then is the bolt in sensor. Drop me an email if you want one. ludwigmotorsports@insightbb.com.
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Edit: ludwig beat me to it
Just to add, in the desert I saw 215 degrees for hours, with no issues, on the S4 dash gauge, that represents hotter than normal but not overheating
210 degrees actual at the water pump outlet is hot, but the coolant seals do not fry at 210 degrees, that's total BS, hell they don't even fry at 220 providing your not running strait water in the radiator.
Just to add, in the desert I saw 215 degrees for hours, with no issues, on the S4 dash gauge, that represents hotter than normal but not overheating
210 degrees actual at the water pump outlet is hot, but the coolant seals do not fry at 210 degrees, that's total BS, hell they don't even fry at 220 providing your not running strait water in the radiator.
Last edited by slo; 09-07-08 at 09:44 PM.
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Ok, sorry. These are just the numbers I was told to watch out for. Also I have the coolant seals from pineapple racing (not the stock mazda ones) so I hope that they can handle even more heat. Not sure though.
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Its not the seals that fail, they don't melt anyways, the normal failing from overheat is caused by a slight warping of the housings.
The FD doesn't even turn on the stock fans to full speed till after 210
don't get me wrong, you should keep it below 210, but don't have a heart attack when it goes above this.
The FD doesn't even turn on the stock fans to full speed till after 210
don't get me wrong, you should keep it below 210, but don't have a heart attack when it goes above this.
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Its not the seals that fail, they don't melt anyways, the normal failing from overheat is caused by a slight warping of the housings.
The FD doesn't even turn on the stock fans to full speed till after 210
don't get me wrong, you should keep it below 210, but don't have a heart attack when it goes above this.
The FD doesn't even turn on the stock fans to full speed till after 210
don't get me wrong, you should keep it below 210, but don't have a heart attack when it goes above this.
It have been stressing over keeping my coolant temps as low as possible on my RE (trying to keep it under 210) driving like a little girl ... I was wondering why I could NOT for the life of me get it back down to 18x.
Ok, thank you. I am still going to get the koyo, correct temp sensor, and put my stock clutchfan back on. I dislike this whole efan business very much. I will have to relocate my huge filter somewhere else now somehow hehe.
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in my experience, the coolant temp stuff is just adjusted from where the thing is, and i dont really look at the actual numbers too much.
the exception is when you run across a factory temp vs correction curve (be it coolant or air) you just duplicate it.
but anyways you're still sorting, a little paranoia is good, although the goal is to not have to look at the gauge, and just drive the F#$k out of it.
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