Haltech anyone have the calibration charts for FD stock air and water temp
No I checked the FSM there are resistances for 2 temps given, hardly enough to build a good table.
In any case I reinstalled the haltech GM temp sender and plumbed it into the elbow.
In any case I reinstalled the haltech GM temp sender and plumbed it into the elbow.
Why not use the appropriate GM/Haltech sensors. The stock AIT sensor is extremely slow to react not to mention will never give true temperatures at the end of its spectrum of measurement. The GM/Haltech AIT is open element and will give you a truer temperature with better latency. I saw over a 30 degree difference between the stock AIT and GM sensor at WOT that the stock missed when logging my IC temperatures.
This is an extrapolation, but it seems about right, both temp sensors on the FD seem to be the same resistance basically, so input this onto the calibration window for both sensors:
*C ------ Kohms
-40 ------ 25.525
-20 ------ 16.2
0 ------ 6.875
20 ------ 2.45
35 ------ 1.7575
50 ------ 1.065
65 ------ 0.6925
95 ------ 0
The curve isnt linear so it will look funky on the map, but it should work. But Fritts is right, its probably better to just use the Haltech sensors, its a more precise reading.
*C ------ Kohms
-40 ------ 25.525
-20 ------ 16.2
0 ------ 6.875
20 ------ 2.45
35 ------ 1.7575
50 ------ 1.065
65 ------ 0.6925
95 ------ 0
The curve isnt linear so it will look funky on the map, but it should work. But Fritts is right, its probably better to just use the Haltech sensors, its a more precise reading.
Last edited by Claudio RX-7; Jan 2, 2008 at 11:20 PM.
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This is an extrapolation, but it seems about right, both temp sensors on the FD seem to be the same resistance basically, so input this onto the calibration window for both sensors:
*C ------ Kohms
-40 ------ 25.525
-20 ------ 16.2
0 ------ 6.875
20 ------ 2.45
35 ------ 1.7575
50 ------ 1.065
65 ------ 0.6925
95 ------ 0
The curve isnt linear so it will look funky on the map, but it should work. But Fritts is right, its probably better to just use the Haltech sensors, its a more precise reading.
*C ------ Kohms
-40 ------ 25.525
-20 ------ 16.2
0 ------ 6.875
20 ------ 2.45
35 ------ 1.7575
50 ------ 1.065
65 ------ 0.6925
95 ------ 0
The curve isnt linear so it will look funky on the map, but it should work. But Fritts is right, its probably better to just use the Haltech sensors, its a more precise reading.
I use the following table:
°C--R(kOhm)
-40--1 116.000
-20--325.900
0--109.400
20--41.390
50--11.610
70--5.522
85--3.315
100--2,062
125--1,002
127 comp--0.939
Bringing this one back up! Does anyone have any data for the MAP sensor? I have a Gm 1 bar for my NA 20b. I'm running an E11. I think it's out of calibration because with just the key on (engine not running) I'm showing -2 as a load point (vacuum). Should I be at 0 (atmoshpere) with no air movement? I originally had a Gm 3 bar and noticed the same thing. I'm starting to tune the engine now and wanna make sure I won't have to change it later.
Unless you are sea level and happen to have standard atmospheric conditions, you will never see 0. As long as you are above sea level the reading will be slightly negative.
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