interesting. I'm using a Sprint RE as well on a stock port s5 T2

Idle:
800-1000 rpm based on BAC setting at about 17-18 inHG
12.5-12.8 afr
15 deg base timing
-5 deg split
total Inj time (.85ms base map plus ID1000 dead time table) is right at 2.000 ms

With the above settings, mine idles great at around 12.5-12.8 at around 800-1000 with no hiccups or sounding strained. Once it gets to around 13 afr it will start surging a little along with the map trace and rpm. All cars will be slightly different, but I was under the impression that rotaries had trouble idling that smoothly closer to stoich. Personally, I'd really like to be able to lean it out and keep it smooth because it fills the garage up with exhaust fumes in no time.

 

Also, it took me moving up my pulse widts to 6ms for the car to start. That a sign of injectors not working or what?

 

no

 

lol alright, so 6ms is normal? if not, where should i go from here? im no where near anyone else who tunes haltech. I dont understand how this portion of the map goes from .96-1.2ms or whatever, all the way up to 6ms. my base fuel map looks nothing like anyone elses..

maybe im retarded lol

thanks for the help.

 

you lower all the points in that range (idle) till it hits an afr of about 13. it wont be rock solid, but it should hover pretty good around that point.

 

Alright. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I'll post videos of whatever I do. Thanks a lot for your help man.

 

How do I calibrate my o2 afr readings its off by 1ish versus the sensor reading.

also I cannot find this stupid vacuum leak. my idle is at 1300ish im getting a map reading of -9 its annoying.

 

ludwig gave ya all the info needed to calibrate the o2 sensor.

did you get new injector orings? was the TB ever messed with? is that -9psi or -9in/hhg??

 

-9psi.

Did he? I don't have it. He told me how to install not calibrate.

 

here is whats currently going on Idle wise with my car.

http://youtu.be/aFqltWymQPg
any thoughts?

 

and you say thats a stock port?

first things first, what is your coolent temp? what is you intake temp? what are those mapped out to be?

what is your injection ms?

 

Didn't idle like that before switching to Haltech. As far as i know its the origional engine with 88K. I'll get the CT and AT info tomorrow. Also, I true switching to Claudios map. I had to switch the ignition to direct fire for LS1 coils, I did it, applied it, and it never started. I switched back to my map. Still only fires L1 plug, even though it's set for Direct Fire??? The hell?...
I'll look again and try to post another video with a data log.

 

What wideband are you using?

 

AEM. My freinds father has an account with them, and i got it BNIB for less than $100.. mainly the only reason i picked it up.

Also on the spark issue, i called Haltech and spoke with Matt. I figured out i had fouled my plugs trying to start it with Caludio's map. ( i feel dumb for not even checking first) I feel like i am being overly cautious and its making me nervous. lol so i ordered some plugs today and they should be in tomorrow.

another thing, when i try to bring up the WBO2 display i can't seem to find the one that displays current AFR's all i find are the ones that display difference. Am i missing something??

 

just type in "o2" in the search box.... its called 'calibrations - o2' or something like that... just like the coolant and air sensors

 

Fero is right. It's "calibrations - wideband o2", or something of that nature.

The AEM calibration for gasoline is 0v = 10:1, 5V = 20:1. That's the default calibration in the Haltech.

 

awesome! thanks a lot guys!

i have to change the starter in my MK1 Rabbit today. then ill get back to work on the 7.

 

How is the wiring and setup on Sprint Re is it any better then the P1000?

 

Has anybody gotten good numbers with them? was considering in buying one of my own

 

how do you quantify better?

how do you quantify good numbers? what do you mean by numbers?

 

im having issues, anyone wanna take a look?

88 T2 stock port
550cc primaries
1600cc secondaries
3" turbo back exhaust
GSP FMIC
LS-yukon coils

after installing the intercooler, my idle went all high and crazy. Im ordering a haltech or motech TPS today. im tired of trying to get this s4 one to work. Its hit or miss.

 

Do yourself a favor and fit an S5 TPS and throttle body or do the full range mod for the S4 throttle body.

If you suddenly have a high idle after working on the car, you have created a vacuum leak or have caused the throttle plates to stick open. Mapping will not cause a drastic change in idle speed.

 

i made a cam for the s4 TPS to ride on just like Beefhole did. it was working fine for a few days, then just **** out on me. Every s5 throttle body i find either does'nt have the tps, or they want like $160 for it... I figured that it had to be a vacuum leak. Im also leaking at the DP right after the turbo, so i need to fix that before i can do much more anyway. i have a gasket and some other things coming from Pineapple Racing.

My inputs and outputs dont seem to be working either, i can get my fan to kick on, nor will my Haltech read the O2 sensor. both are wired to the correct wires. ive done the O2 twice just to make sure it was right. Still nothing.
Ill try and either source the vacuum leak and address that in the morning.

Any reason why you dont advise the haltech TPS? (other than making a bracket and all) I'm much better at building things than wiring...
Again, thanks a lot for your input guys.

 

They don't fit and everyone botches the fabrication to make them fit. It's more involved than making a bracket. The throttle shaft is completely wrong for the common Bosch TPS.

 

So I basically scrapped out the S4 TPS, I bought an s5 TB and TPS from a member (Japan2La) in the mean time. I decided to tape down the s4 plunger and tune my idle, as well as finally let the car enter warmup all the way. I now have my e-fan working. I also uploaded BDC's map to give that a try.
Car started and now idles at 1300-1400rpm. At 13.8-14.2AFR. I re-stabbed the CAS as well. The car sounds 100 times better and is way more responsive. I can rev it without the TPS and it doesn't fall on its face.

However, the AV11 wire (o2) is not reading anything at all I believe. I've tried turning on, as well a calibrating it. It just shows 2.53 (constant) in the diagnostics page. I'm at a loss on this now. Any thoughts?