1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

I have zero experience with wiring anything so I need help from you experts. Ive taken pics of most of the wiring connection and I would appreciate you guys input.

MAP with Fuel Cut Defender
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

TPS (I have no idea here)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

Ignition (Should I cut the connectors off the front harness?)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

Injectors(The black/yellow wire merges and connects to what 12v wire?)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

Air temp
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

O2
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

Coolant. (what does the round coolant connector do? It has one wire.)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

CAS
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wable/6...ream/lightbox/

What do I do with the HOME, DPO, ROAD SPEED INPUT, FUEL PUMP RELAY, and AUX REV LIMITER?

What do I do with the Air Flow sensor?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Make it easy on yourself.

1) Use the built-in MAP sensor. This way there is no mystery with the calibration and there is no wiring to foul up.
2) You only use 3 of the 6 wires in the pic for the TPS. The 3 wires that go to the full range sensor. The short range sensor is not used. Off the top of my head the brown/white are 5V+, the brown/black are sensor ground, the third wire, whatever the color is sensor.
3) You can cut the connectors off and make pigtails. Helps if you ever need to swap coils. Wiring for the coils should be listed in the how-to at the top of this section.
4) Black/yellow is common switched 12V+. The blue INJ1-4 wires from the ECU connect to the other side of the injectors.
5) For air temp and coolant temp break down and buy new sensors. Again, no issues of getting the calibration right. New sensors will come with new connectors to ease wiring. There is a direct replacement coolant temp sensor that threads into the back of the water pump so you won't have to drill and tap the pump. The single wire sensor is a thermo switch that is not used.
6) Throw the O2 sensor in the garbage. It died a long time ago and is of no use to you now. Spend the money on a good wideband now if you plan to do the tuning yourself. It's not something you can get later. You need it from the start.
7) CAS is also covered in the how-to up top.
8) Home input is paired with trigger input and connect to the CAS.
9) DPO is for whatever you want to do. E-Fan, water injection, boost control, fast idle, etc.
10) Road speed you probably won't use.
11) Fuel pump output is a switched ground. Connect it to your fuel pump relay to turn it on/off.
12) Wire up the aux rev limiter if you want to utilize the 2-step.
13) Airflow meter goes on Ebay.

Honestly, that's a lot of questions and it's not looking good for success. You need to slow down, search, read, and take your time. This is also usually where buying from a reputable dealer that will walk you through the process comes in handy.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i had zero experience wiring my crap up when i started. good thing for you is that you have a brand new harness. i didnt. i rushed with a hacked up harness. i still got it to work.

take it easy man. its really simple once you take it slow and ask the right questions.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Best advice you'll ever get!

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Whats the Part Number for the air temp sensor and coolant sensor? Will they come with plugs?

What wideband do you recommend and where can I get one?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

PM me. I'll get you set up.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Trying to figure out what wires do what for the stock s5 TPS. What wires are Ground, Signal And voltage?

nismo_bill

iTrader: (2)

From the tps sensor? Or from the Haltech. It should say right on the pinout what wire are going to be for what. Do you have the wire schematics?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

There are six wires coming out of the pair of sensors. You'll only use one of the sensors, so three wires are all you'll use. The sensor you need is the obviously the full range, which rides on the throttle cam through the full range of throttle shaft rotation.

If you still have the stock engine harness for reference or are using it for a pigtail, you'll need to connect the Haltech as follows:

Haltech - Stock
B/W - Br/B
O - Br/W
W - B/Gr

There will be two Br/B and Br/W wires on the pigtail, obviously, use the ones that connect to the proper sensor.

If you do not have the pigtail for reference, look into the connector with pins facing you and you will make the connections like this:

W - O - x
O - B/W - B/W

I'm not sure off the top of my head which O and B/W terminals connect to the proper sensor. You'll need to determine that. The x terminal is the sensor out for the short range sensor. Nothing is connected there. You'll end up with only 3 pins connected and three not.

For those wanting to do clean installs, we have new mating connectors for the S4 and S5 TPS in stock. No splicing of old dry rotted wiring pigtails needed.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

the wires coming off the tps are Blu/Red/Yel.

Looking into the tps connector its

Yel - X - X
Red - Blu- X

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Sounds right.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Sooo... what color indicates what? Red/Blu/Yel

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

I have almost everything wired up. Couple of problems though.

First I cannot find the 12v switch wire.

Secondly when i turn the key the starter didnt turn over im pretty sure it is independent from the ecu so it should turn

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Also can somebody help me find the proper wires to connect to the fuel pump(How Exactly did you do it). Guys Im really desperate anything will do, Im running out of time and i have no Idea what to do.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

I've told you how we do it by adding the fuses and relays to create the circuit.

Easiest way, that uses existing wiring, is to connect the black/yellow wire from the Haltech to the green/red wire at connector FEM-02.

You will then need to remove the circuit open relay (under the steering column) and make a jumper for it. This is the stock fuel pump cutoff that runs through the AFM. Since you have removed the AFM and the ECU is now controlling the pump, there is no need to switch this relay. Find it, remove it, make a short wire with a male spade terminal on each end out of 16g wire. Insert one end in the connector to mate to the black/white wire and one to mate with the blue/red wire.

Now you're left with a fuel pump that works, but is running through undersized, 25 year old wiring. It's best IMO to build it right the first time with properly sized wire running directly from the battery to pump through a fuse and relay.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

I want to do it the right way. im trying to figure this stuff out but honestly im lost. Im not sure what connector is fem-02. Cause I didnt find a 12v switch where I thought it would be. Which in my case is a blue/red striped wire on the smaller of the 2 yellowish connectors.

Also the wires connected to the relay under the dash has a blue/brown wire not blue/red.

Last I still dont know what pin from the fuel pump itself is the positive side out so I could do it proper method.

And I have no spark but a have voltage to the coils.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

First things first.

the ignition power to the haltech can be taken from any point where you get ignition power. take a multimeter and find which one makes you happiest. i took my ignition power where they key lock cylendar is under the steering wheel.

then, with the sprint RE, at the back of the manual, you have a schematic. look at it very closely, and run wires accordingly.

you should be good to go.

read page 29

http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/up...se_website.pdf

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

I have power to the ecu. And stuff. The only thing I dont have running is the fuel pump cause I cant figure out which wire is the positive side is. Also I don't have spark but I do have voltage to the coils. Last I don't know if my injectors are firing because I don't have fuel.

I have memorized that diagram. Maybe I'm just stupid but im really trying to figure this out. My 7 is my daily. I need it to be running. I'm really trying to do this right.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

then slow down. you dont need to panic over this because you will make mistakes.

is the tach bouncing when you crank the engine?
is the rpm's being read in haltech?
are all the sensors being read by haltech?

here is a big hint for wireing up the fuel pump.

red is positive, and black is negative. negative is ground sometimes.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

http://wright-here.net/files/manuals...ingDiagram.pdf

Here is a link to the S4 wiring schematics. Everything I have described in our emails and here can be found in there.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

I have sensor readings on halwin. Except manifold pressure which is giving me a flashing warning.

My tach isnt giving me a reading except on halwin it is.

Still have no spark.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

check the wireing very carefully to the coils. you are only supposed to mess with 3 of the wires for all of the coils. sometimes the colors can be off due to age and you can mess it up. double check the wireing.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Trigger since last home is reading 4. Which I think is wrong. Injectors dont seem to be firing.

Fuel pump working.

Rpm is only 220 when cranking. But doesnt sound like it would be to slow to start otherwise.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

you are getting closer and closer to starting her up.


220 rpms while cranking is fine.

how are you sure the injectors are not fireing?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Trigger at last home needs to be 12 all the time. You have a trigger issue. Make sure you wiring is correct and the trigger setup is as well. Post you map or email it to me and I'll look it over.