Haltech Sprint RE Wiring Help
03-14-12, 08:44 PM
#26
Im not 100% on the injectors not firing. I dont smell fuel so....
I braided the home and trigger cables together an took the two wire yellow and the two greens and connected them to the appropriate wires. I'll check again tomorrow.
I braided the home and trigger cables together an took the two wire yellow and the two greens and connected them to the appropriate wires. I'll check again tomorrow.
03-16-12, 09:07 AM
#32
Still no spark. The following things are not in the target area when I turn the key. Im not sure how to adjust the settings.
Coolant temp corr
Air temp corr
Post start enrich
Injection dead time
Prime pulse time
Injection split angle (comes out of target when cranked)
Staging bar injection(as above)
ignition base (far right outside target)
Rotary split(as above)
Crank timing(as above)
Post start offset(down slightly from target)
Zero throttle(starts in target them moves right)
Trigger settings doesnt come up
Trigger and home voltage are to the left of target.
Im going to try to figure out why I dont have spark. everything is wired correctly.
Coolant temp corr
Air temp corr
Post start enrich
Injection dead time
Prime pulse time
Injection split angle (comes out of target when cranked)
Staging bar injection(as above)
ignition base (far right outside target)
Rotary split(as above)
Crank timing(as above)
Post start offset(down slightly from target)
Zero throttle(starts in target them moves right)
Trigger settings doesnt come up
Trigger and home voltage are to the left of target.
Im going to try to figure out why I dont have spark. everything is wired correctly.
03-17-12, 12:00 AM
#34
OK thats awesome. you got it to idle.
now, dont worry about that target stuff. you seem to be understanding the software a little. dont worry about the arrow being off or on the targets. the ecu doesnt know what the targets should be set as so they are arbitrary values.
what is your oxygen sensor telling you?
i can give you some quick things you can set to get your idle good and dirty, but thats about it.
now, dont worry about that target stuff. you seem to be understanding the software a little. dont worry about the arrow being off or on the targets. the ecu doesnt know what the targets should be set as so they are arbitrary values.
what is your oxygen sensor telling you?
i can give you some quick things you can set to get your idle good and dirty, but thats about it.
03-18-12, 02:55 PM
#37
It running. Not well without a tune. I thought I had an idle. But it was at 2k rpm soo thats not really an idle. Any tips on that?
Also is there a way to change all the cells for fuel? Across the board its too rich. I just want to change by a few percent.
Lastly. It fills like im arbitrarily changing values to get the afr I want us it supposed to be that way?
Last lastly. My wideband reading is different than my haltech. At least I think. Its telling me what the difference is between the two but not the afr itself.
Also is there a way to change all the cells for fuel? Across the board its too rich. I just want to change by a few percent.
Lastly. It fills like im arbitrarily changing values to get the afr I want us it supposed to be that way?
Last lastly. My wideband reading is different than my haltech. At least I think. Its telling me what the difference is between the two but not the afr itself.
03-18-12, 09:08 PM
#38
re: fuel adjustment
You can select overall trim in the menu tree. This will add or subtract a percentage everywhere. You can also highlight any cells, or the whole map, and do percentage adjustments or raise and lower the pulsewidth.
re: wideband
Sounds like you're displaying AFR difference and not actual AFR. Check the display. Also, ground offsets will skew the display slightly. If the wideband display and the Haltech screen are off by a few 1/10th of a point, you can alter the calibration to get them to synch up. If they're off by more than that, you may have a larger problem.
You can select overall trim in the menu tree. This will add or subtract a percentage everywhere. You can also highlight any cells, or the whole map, and do percentage adjustments or raise and lower the pulsewidth.
re: wideband
Sounds like you're displaying AFR difference and not actual AFR. Check the display. Also, ground offsets will skew the display slightly. If the wideband display and the Haltech screen are off by a few 1/10th of a point, you can alter the calibration to get them to synch up. If they're off by more than that, you may have a larger problem.
03-19-12, 02:17 PM
#39
in text view in your base fuel table, just press P.
also, let me explain tuning to you.
tuning is an art. not everyone gets it right, but everyone can draw some form of a circle. some draw it better than others and some are **** at it.
when air comes into the engine, it has to mix with fuel in an atomized/vapor state to mix with the air in order to burn correctly. when the engine spins over, it pulls air in at a specific rate and pressure. the pressure it pulls in at the ecu knows what millisecond to open the injectors to correctly control the afr based on what you set it at for every load and every rpm. a load the engine is undergoing is based on if its idling, or pulling a load and depending on if the engine is actually having to produce work.
so lets say for a second that you car idles at 1000 rpms. it will be sicking in air. maybe at like -7 or -9 psi. now think of a bar graph that has a range of -20 to +20 from left to right. if you are boosting it of course goes into the + section of the map. when you arent, it stays at the - section till you hit WOT. in a non turbo application is will over at around 0 psi and as such, at 1000 rpms, the engine will start to climb in rpms till you decide to let off. so you tune the cells at 1k rpm for the right amount of fuel and then set all the other rpm values for that load to what you find appropriate at 1k rpms.
now, you have a rough full throttle map at 0 or -1 or 1 psi depending on the engine till about 9k rpms. but wait... i said work too. load and work are the same, and work is measure in torque. so you add more fuel as torque rises, and as it tapers off or becomes steady, then you taper off the fuel.
you do this for every cell, at every rpm for every psi load. this isnt soo hard as you can move up and down loads of points in the graph.
NOW HOLD UP. dont change just one cell. imagine if you will, a carpet. its 10 inches by 10 inches. at the middle of the carpet you stick something underneath it to raise it up. notice the area around it transitions smoothly to this point. you must also compensate this smooth transition in your map.
thats pretty much how i learned it. if im wrong in any way ludwig, or anyone, let me know so i wont go around misinforming people.
03-20-12, 06:22 AM
#41
Thanks for the info.
Ive messed around a bit and my afr at idle is terribly low. 10-11. Dont know what to do there.
Under load up til about 4k afr is 12.5ish which ive read is good. it feels right atleast.
Limiting the revs to about 5k for now. Havent hit much boost either. Taking it slow.
Ive messed around a bit and my afr at idle is terribly low. 10-11. Dont know what to do there.
Under load up til about 4k afr is 12.5ish which ive read is good. it feels right atleast.
Limiting the revs to about 5k for now. Havent hit much boost either. Taking it slow.
03-20-12, 10:15 AM
#43
hard wired is ok, just wire in a relay so that it pumps while ignition is on.
find what rpms you idle at and what pressure its at, and move that cell down. move the neighbouring cells down as well in the rpm and pressure so its not a sudden change in your map.
find what rpms you idle at and what pressure its at, and move that cell down. move the neighbouring cells down as well in the rpm and pressure so its not a sudden change in your map.
03-21-12, 11:41 AM
#48
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not to thread jack. My car is started on Sprint RE but i am having a hard time dialing in Idle. My AEM reads from 13.7-15.8AFR and sounds like a street port. (its stock) when i dial out fuel it sounds really good, but reads 16.5-17.6. any thoughts? im running LS coils, and deleted everything. stock primaries, 1600cc secondaries. car is an S4 T2. stock turbo as well.