GeTCrAzYKiD

to start my car has
Turbo II fresh rebuilt w/ stock ports
s5 stock turbo
FMIC
550/720
walboro 255
FPR 1:1

Ive recently installed my new sprint RE. Ive used both the map that is preloaded and also the one provided from claudio. I actually get better results from the one supplied by claudio.
but my problem i cannot seem to find close results in searches..

Ive managed to get it to start with a little throttling but it will only run on one rotor..the rear rotor.. ive pulled plugs and wires to be sure fuel is getting and spark is there.. I know compression is good also, i checked it prior to the manifold installs.. I have confirmed no vaccum leaks and have removed the clip off the secondary to be sure it wasnt dumping too much fuel for some reason. Ive messed around with some of the settings and actually got it to fire quickly without throttling but however it still only runs on one rotor.

I have read that i can turn off the correction maps for temperature etc and plan on trying it tomorrow if i get time. but is there anything that possibly im overlooking? i believe it to be something regarding timing possibly through ignition.. but as i said Ive read about turning some of the correction features off after i ran out of time and stopped working on the car.
I'm kinda new to the full on standalone, I swapped out my rtek for this so I have a some knowledge..

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

are you getting fuel and spark to the front rotor?

GeTCrAzYKiD

100%.. I even removed the plug and turned it flames shot out.. That's why i believe it to be some kind if timing issue.. I used an inductive timing light and it lights really well front and rear both leading and trailing..

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Have you zeroed the timing?

GeTCrAzYKiD

When you say zeroed the timing what do you mean?

I did time the motor and the CAS.. but inside ECU manager i didnt change much since i dont really underdtand the tooth offset values and other ignition factors much.. but I did change them around to see what happened.. i ranged the trigger angle from 65 down to 55 and the tooth offset way out at 30( just to see a reaction of the motor) but I never left it there i only really ranged it from 0 to 15 with attempts to start. under the ignition tab is still set how the map was made but I was tempted to change the dwell time but did not because again something I'm not fully aware of on how it operates.
I'd really like to get it started and idling so i can bring it to a trusted tuner which is also hard t find lol

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Zero the timing. Read post #18

https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-foru...1/#post8678799

GeTCrAzYKiD

I'm going to try this the next opportunity i have.. thank you..

GeTCrAzYKiD

Well i attempted this and i zeroed it too 55 and left the tooth offset at 11.. It tried to start on the first try but then just turned.. I could shell the fuel.. I mess with the tooth offset and for no real changes.. Tried at 10, 8 and 0..tooth offset that is.. I'm not sure what exactly the offset is doing but i heard no changes the in the way it turned.. But i smell an a bit of fuel..

Edit. In addition when i was checking for trailing spark the timing light did not illuminate.. I'm not sure if this its like factory stuff because i know trailing didn't ignite until it started..

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

DONT MESS WITH THE TOOTH OFFSET!! its not something you mess with. you set it to one thing and thats it. period.

Set it to what its supposed to be, and follow ludwigs instructions.

bumpstart

put the timing mark up to top and redo the CAS drop in .. then use the recommended tooth and angle .. only thing that may alter will be the angle measurement up to 10 either way

only leadings will fire ( wastespark ) and trailing will wait till engine rpm indicates its not cranking any more

recheck you have the injectors wired up correctly.. right connector on the right injector.. ....

you will find all the injectors fire on start.. and thus be wet .. but if connected incorrectly you will have double fuel to one rotor and none to other during running

GeTCrAzYKiD

Sorry to keep you guys in the dark, i do not want this to turn into a dead thread but i havnt had too much time to get down to this.. i was sick and my daughter was sick there for more shifts picked up at work to make up for money loss so the wife can stay home but Ive been back at it today a bit so i should have some update tomorrow pmish.. thank you for the help thus far!

GeTCrAzYKiD

Well as posted, i did get back to work.. sorry the reply was late but I confirmed that the wires to all the injectors were correct. I tried a different map (https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-foru...-a-975411/)and i think i made a little progress. spark is firing excelent. I cant tell to much but with the new map there a little less fuel. it attempts to start on the first few revolutions but then just turns even with throttle.

GeTCrAzYKiD

Well, yes its been about a year. I had to put this on pause since, wife problems.

I have since rewired the electrical system, made it a little bit more elaborate which corrected a few issues. I now have spark constantly without issue where as sometimes i would. I then repaired a TPS issue where it was reading very erratic.

This weekend I decided to try and crank it for the first time in a while, it started right up on one rotor it manages to idle for about 5 seconds and die. Tried again played with the throttle and see if maybe the rear rotor would catch, it didnt. But i could keep it running as long as i needed playing with the throttle.

I went back and re stabbed and zeroed the timing. With the timing locked it will start and run under the previously stated conditions, however if it is unlocked it would not start. It would sound like it was trying but wouldnt.

I trying playing with some of the corrections table, just simply enabling and disabling them. My results didnt change much.

I thought there could be a fuel or ignition issue, checked ignition with timing light, firing great. check for fuel - the rear rotor was very dry could be mistakable for nothing. while the front was saturated. I thought there may be an injector issue so I swapped the primaries around to see if the fuel issue would follow, it did not. rear still quite dry, front still wet. Unfortunately I have to get ready for work.

Any Ideas?

I have one additional question, the s4 and s5 maps that comes with the haltech what are the differences?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Have you tried a new set of spark plugs?

GeTCrAzYKiD

Ok I know this has been some time but I ended up with a few different issues.. After I moved the car sat for some time. From the looks of the posts almost a year :/ I found a few grounding issues and had since fixed them. Attempted to start again and Finding good fuel, and good spark on both front an rear rotors. Scratched my head still so I did a compression check. Low compression on the front rotor.. Pulled it back out rebuilt and shoved it back in..
Cranked it again and started on the first try..

So to sum it all up from start to finish and make my recap story short, Bad grounds, GROUNDS ,GrOuNdS! and many attempts to start and have to move suddenly caused the car to sit with unburned fuel which I think sealed its fate with no compression.

But all in all it is in and running and sounding healthy today.. Sorry for such a lack of updating..