Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I would not touch the stock wheel - If it is bent just get a new OEM one.

The FSM actually calls out the spec for spacing.

Kalle

I noticed the E6K and E6X diagram differs. The positive and negative is on different sides of the connector. Is it different for K and X or does it even matter?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't change - it's static (part of the stock setup).

Funny thing is I've found some other wrong information (the attached is a incorrect old drawing).

Page F-180 shows the spec for the spacing and page F-26 shows the wiring with polarity.

Now it gets better when you go to page Z-32 and it's different than F-26.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

When looking into the back of the crank sensor connectors, with the lock tab at the top, the negative side is on the left. The stock wire colors differ between years.

Kalle

In that case. I have the wires backwards. This is how my wires are from the left:


NE G
yellow - red green - blue

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

The K2RD drawing (One I posted earlier) matches that discription.

I have also wired my car the same fasion (-'s on top).

Kalle

I re-wired the CAS, and it seemed to work. But the engine was flooded and I couldnt get it running. Then I lost connection to haltech and when I try to connect the COM port doesnt work.

I´ve heard its a common problem. Any ideas what could have caused it?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

When you think it's about to flood just uncheck the "Enable Injectors" and crank it over for a bit (should try to start).

That will save you alot of hassle.

If you lost voltage to the Haltech your batt voltage might have dipped durring a start.

Did you try to restart your pc and turn off the haltech?

Kalle

Yeah I´ve done that a couple times but it seemed like the spark was lost.

When I rewired the CAS I just twisted the wires together for testing and one of them might have came loose. But that shouldnt make the haltech go offline or anything right?

I have lost connection many times before while cranking or running, but I think that was because of my bad battery/alternator problem. Now I have a brand new battery and working alternator.

I did try to restart everything but that didnt help. I´ll try to set up the haltech for a different port.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

No-

When you do crank you will lose connection (the key of the IGN does this via the ACC - looking at a schematic will show that) and that is normal (just like your radio shutting off while cranking).

Make sure you're using Xon/Xoff (software flow control).

fastest you can go is 19200 I believe and make sure all the other settings are the same between the Halwin and your COM port.

Check to make sure you dont' have anything else assigned to that port on the PC.

I would also make sure you get a good ground on the haltech (the COM port on the haltech uses same ground as the ECU).

Kalle

Tried to get the com port working today but no sucess. Changed all settings to the same, used Xon/Xoff, restarted the computer multiple times with different settings but nothing work.

I get this message from halwin when I try to connect:

Kalle

Seems like remove and reconnect the haltech grounding point solved the com port problem.

So I started it up but now it seems to run on only the rear rotor. When taking all plugs out and checking spark they all work. But when i put them back in only L2 and T2 works when I check them with the timing light. Seems like the engine rpm´s arent high enough to create spark? Cause when the plugs are out the rpm are higher and everything seems to work.

MOVIE - click

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

Check your ignition wiring/spark plugs.

Check your settings.

Are you getting fuel on the front rotor?

Kalle

Ignition wiring are checked and is according to the wiring diagram. New sparkplugs are ordered. I´ll try with 7´s instead of 9´s on the leading.

What settings could cause a problem like this? I do get fuel.

Can this still be a trigger issue? Weird thing is that it does have spark when the plugs are out and the engine rev is a little higher on the starter.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

could be excessive amounts of fuel putting out the spark (- like switched primaries with secondaries).

For settings - waste spark, direct fire,etc - i'd look at those ign settings.

Kalle

I did a new try today with new sparkplugs. I do get it started every time but it doesnt run very good, smokes like hell and the lambda is around 14. With alot of backfiring.

I checked the timing again (when cranking) and its way early even when set at 72 BTDC.

The CAS is now wired according to the K2RD diagram.

NE- Red
NE+ Yellow

G- Blue
G+ Green

-´s on top of connector


Im a little worried abot my Leading1 coil getting warm, while the others are cold. Is it normal that the LS2 coils get warm?

About the Waste spark setting, I cant find any setting named waste spark?


pic when running

http://www.mypicx.com/uploadimg/1670...09052010_1.jpg

fritts

iTrader: (5)

Don't worry about the wasted spark he just saying to look for the ignition firing type. It should be sequential if your running ls coils. You need to verify spark on all coils as well as zero the timing before you worry about they way the engine is running.

Kalle

Hey guys. It´s been a while since I last worked on the car but today I got it started again.

The motor starts pretty easy and the ignition seems to work. However I have problem with to zero the timing. I started of with 70BTDC and the marking was about 3/4 inch off (early) When the ignition was set at 74BTDC the timing was almost spot on which I think is weird, shouldnt it be even earlier and not later?
The timing mark stays at the same spot around 2000rpm but moves a little further up at higher rpms and jumps a little bit when pumping the throttle.

I´ll post a video, please have a look and see If you find something strange.

Settings/Setup

Haltech E6X
13b REW
LS2 coils

72 BTDC
Timing -5 (locked)
Tooth offset 5
Direct fire
Constang charge
Falling edge
3,5ms charge time

The o2 sensor reads 15-16 at 2000rpm. Lean?

As you can see in the video I also have problems with the haltech sometime losing connection, what could be wrong?

*LINK*

http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...t=IMG_0540.mp4

If anyone would like to have a look at my map as well that would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Kalle

Video on how the timing is at 72 BTDC, 2000rpm. When set at 74 BTDC its almost spot on.

http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...t=IMG_0542.mp4


Sorry for the bad quality. You can see the timing mark at about 3/4 inch before the TDC

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

looks like the timing is way off, since injector pw is pretty high and AFRs are really lean and sounds like ****.

when you zeroed the timing, did you use the L1 or T1? the REW timing mark is at -20. when you zero your timing, you have to either put the timing light on T1 with timing locked at -5L and -20T, or... set both leading and trailing to -20 and check it using L1. you may have to keep the throttle open to keep it idling since the timing will be so retarded

on my REW im running trigger angle 65 and tooth offset of 10 and its lined up perfectly

can you post your map? what size injectors are you using?

Kalle

The map I´m using: RX7 mapp 28 april.6XM - 4.3 KB

I checked the timing at T1, locked at -5. I´m not shure if T1 or L1 is locked, it doesnt say in halwin.

I use tooth offset 5.

850 / 1600cc injectors.

When raising the Trigger angle, shouldnt the pulley mark move further away from the top mark and not closer?

Thanks!

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

try this one

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php...95496413655028

Kalle

Didn´t work too well. Alot of backfiring and it seemed to be flooding on me. I didnt manage to check the timing cause it ran too rough. Also I had to change the gain and filters back to 0 to get a stable reading.

It runs super lean too on both this map and my old one. I see 16-20 afr. Still it backfires and floods for me?

Is it preferable to use tooth offset 10? What does tooth offset mean actually?

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

make sure your trigger is wired like this.. and home and trigger not swapped. the home is the outer connector (1 tooth), trigger is inner with 12 teeth

http://www.tuningtechnology.net/Down...7_FD_Stock.pdf

if your injectors and coils are wired incorrectly, you could only be getting fuel to one rotor. make sure INJ1 goes to primary injector 1st rotor and INJ2 goes to primary injector 2nd rotor

also, e6x will not do direct fire because it only has 3 IGN outputs, so if you have LS2 coils you have to wire both leadings to IGN1 output

IGN 1 LGRN - L1 and L2
IGN 2 WHT/BLK - T1
IGN 3 BLU - T2

is that how your coils are wired?

https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/need-e6x-wiring-ls2-truck-coils-943615/


if all that checks out, have you tried adding fuel in vacuum? try adding 5% (alt-p) in vacuum from 0 to 3000 rpm and see if it smooths out

Kalle

Thanks. Hmm according to that wiring diagram i got the wires backwards. I did wire it according to that diagram first but I later changed it to the K2RD diagram because I had trigger problems.

Im away from home until the weekend so I cant check the ignition wiring but Im pretty shure I got it right.