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Im using the two DPOs to switch on two lights, one for overheating, and one for overboost. I was testing them out and it seems like theres a 1-2 second delay before the light kicks on. This defeats the purpose of what im trying to accomplish.
Any way of adjusting the "reaction time" of the DPOs?
What are you switching? The outputs will only sink a few milliamps. If you're switching an incandescent bulbs, that's likely you're problem. If you're using a relay, that could also be the problem. There is nowhere near that much delay on the hardware side of the ECU.
What are you switching? The outputs will only sink a few milliamps. If you're switching an incandescent bulbs, that's likely you're problem. If you're using a relay, that could also be the problem. There is nowhere near that much delay on the hardware side of the ECU.
Im just using it to power shift lights. the two in the glove box. The Manual says it should power shift lights just fine.
I searched and could not find the wattage of bulbs used by these lights and the corresponding amp draw. But, FWIW, the output can sink 800mA max. A 10 watt bulbs is going to pretty well max that out. As bright as those bulbs are, my guess is they're pulling close to max. Add to that the in rush current when the bulb is first trying to illuminate and you're very likely overloading the output. Try using a relay or find some LEDs that draw less current. I've used these outputs to drive LEDs directly and have not had the issue you're having.
Thanks for the input, although it's not what I wanted to hear. I suppose I'll just try some relays. A 10 watt bulb would pull .83 amps, which as you said is close to max. And this is assuming they are 10 watt bulbs. Thanks C
make sure you are driving them with GND from the haltech. meaning wire the + side of the bulb to switched 12V, and the - side to the DPO. you could also put a ~10 ohm resistor inline to limit the current, but the brightness of the bulb will be reduced
make sure you are driving them with GND from the haltech. meaning wire the + side of the bulb to switched 12V, and the - side to the DPO. you could also put a ~10 ohm resistor inline to limit the current, but the brightness of the bulb will be reduced
Thats how i have them, except im using the dedicated 12v source for the DPOs. I dont think theres another way to hook them up.
Im going to see if i can swap out the incandescents for LEDs, if not im just going to use relays. Im not trying to re-invent the wheel on this one.
Ok so I finally got around to installing the relays. Looks like it made no difference.
For the red light, i have it set up as a coolant warning light. DPO3 is set to a coolant switch to trigger at 215 degrees, and trigger off at 210. Im seeing a 3-4 second delay between when the switch hits the trigger temperature, and when i actually hear the relay click. Attached is a drawing of how i have it set up.
Change over to celcius scale and see if it acts more appropriatly. I know when pressure scale is set to psi it gets converted in the background to kpa. Same thing is probably happening here. You tell it 215°F, which is 101.7°C. That gets rounded up to 102°C for the trigger and now the output is actually turning on at 215.6°F. That's a theory anyway.
Alternately, enable the output as Test and trigger it manually to see if it acts instantly.
Will try those things. FYI its also happening to the blue light, which i have set to MAP switch. But like you said, it could have something to do with converting it to kpa. Ill get back ASAP. Thanks again.
Called Haltech. Apparently there's no conversion from C* to F*. The only conversion that takes place is raw voltage to whatever temp unit you choose.
So, I pulled apart the shift lights and found leds. My idea was to bypass the circuit board (since I wasn't using the shift light anyways) to weed out that being a variable. Unfortunately I don't know much about wiring leds, so that didn't work.
I ended up going to Kragen and getting some Sylvania 3357 incandescents and soldering those together. I'll post some pics.
This whole time I've only been checking the coolant switch light for the delay and not the map switch. I'm not sure if this was happening with the map switch before, or if it fixed it, but the light I'm using for overboost is now performing as it should.
The coolant light is still delaying. I tried switching from coolant switch 1 to coolant switch 2, thinking there might be something wrong with the algorithm, no dice. I've attached videos of the delay below the pictures.
Yeah, they kick on immediately in test mode. I know this is an internal ECU problem because you can see the "virtual light" on my computer screen delayed as well. I'm not to worried about the coolant switch. Even though its not functioning correctly, it'll suffice for my application. I was more worried about the MAP switch, where a small 3 second delay in the light can be catastrophic. Its functioning correctly now.
I am using the boost cut function, but i hate hitting it. I'd like some kind of pre-warning. Trying really hard to not blow this one up. I also have 2 water temp gauges and an overheat light. Call me paranoid....
Thanks for all your help C, much appreciated as always.
Not sure. There may not have been a problem with the map switch in the first place, as i was only testing the coolant switch. If anything, it was from swaping out the shift light innards for incandescents.
01-15-16, 09:13 AM
