Haltech ps 2000 install in Cosmo
04-24-11, 04:40 AM
#51
LOL well........
Got the CAS working. looks like the color of the wires changed from one side of the CAS connector the other. so I change around the home and trigger wires.
RPM works great about 190 ~ 210 during cranking. I can smell fuel but not getting any spark. I dont even hear a miss fire. Tomorrow after work I will try and track down why I am not getting spark
Got the CAS working. looks like the color of the wires changed from one side of the CAS connector the other. so I change around the home and trigger wires.
RPM works great about 190 ~ 210 during cranking. I can smell fuel but not getting any spark. I dont even hear a miss fire. Tomorrow after work I will try and track down why I am not getting spark
04-24-11, 08:42 PM
#52
Just to check my wiring for the coils and injectors
T1 Yellow/Green
L1 Yellow/Black
T2 Blue/Violet
L2 Yellow/Red
T3 Blue/Green
L3 Yellow/ Orange
LS/2 truck coil
Coil connector pins
a ground
b ground
c coil signal from haltech
d 12v power from red/yellow parsed off to each injector for power pin d
Haltech settings
spark mode: direct
spark edge: falling
trailing spark edge: falling
dwell mode: constant charge
trailing dwell mode: constant charge
dwell time: 5.00 ms
Injectors
p1 blue
p2 blue/black
p3 blue/brown
s1 blue/red
s2 blue/orange
s3 blue/yellow
red/blue 12V power parsed off to each injector
haltech settings ( right now just running the stock 20b injectors )
injection mode: sequential
staging mode: primary hold
resistance: high
T1 Yellow/Green
L1 Yellow/Black
T2 Blue/Violet
L2 Yellow/Red
T3 Blue/Green
L3 Yellow/ Orange
LS/2 truck coil
Coil connector pins
a ground
b ground
c coil signal from haltech
d 12v power from red/yellow parsed off to each injector for power pin d
Haltech settings
spark mode: direct
spark edge: falling
trailing spark edge: falling
dwell mode: constant charge
trailing dwell mode: constant charge
dwell time: 5.00 ms
Injectors
p1 blue
p2 blue/black
p3 blue/brown
s1 blue/red
s2 blue/orange
s3 blue/yellow
red/blue 12V power parsed off to each injector
haltech settings ( right now just running the stock 20b injectors )
injection mode: sequential
staging mode: primary hold
resistance: high
04-25-11, 05:50 AM
#53
Well I checked every wire today with a multimeter.
I only found 1 problem.
the CTS ground wire does not show grounded. I checked it several places on the wire and it tests open. Can I tap into the ground wire for the ATS? or does it needs its own ground sent from the ECU? Im getting code 11 CTS fault. Will this keep the car from starting? the CTS is reading 203F
I checked the coils and they are sending spark. I dont have oscope to look at the signal.
this engine I never pulled the CAS out so I think the timing should be close enough to start the car.
only thing I can think of is with CTS reading so high that it is dumping extra fuel in and making the engine flooded.
LOL I would rather not pour ATF down the intake to get it started
I only found 1 problem.
the CTS ground wire does not show grounded. I checked it several places on the wire and it tests open. Can I tap into the ground wire for the ATS? or does it needs its own ground sent from the ECU? Im getting code 11 CTS fault. Will this keep the car from starting? the CTS is reading 203F
I checked the coils and they are sending spark. I dont have oscope to look at the signal.
this engine I never pulled the CAS out so I think the timing should be close enough to start the car.
only thing I can think of is with CTS reading so high that it is dumping extra fuel in and making the engine flooded.
LOL I would rather not pour ATF down the intake to get it started
04-25-11, 06:51 AM
#54
You can use any of the other signal ground wires. Unless your air temp compensation is jacked up, it's not dumping extra fuel since it thinks it's hot. To the contrary it wouldn't be adding enough fuel to compensate for the cold engine.
Everything else looks good.
Everything else looks good.
04-26-11, 08:14 AM
#57
fixed the coolant temp ground and the code is gone now.
I was able to get the car started for the 1st time
still a little smoky from ATF I used on the enigne before I pulled it out of my old blue Cosmo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAYkRxvFGh0
I will need to block off the air line on the back of the LIM I put my finger over the whole while it was idling and it got sucked in. So I will build a block off plate for it.
I was able to get the car started for the 1st time
still a little smoky from ATF I used on the enigne before I pulled it out of my old blue Cosmo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAYkRxvFGh0
I will need to block off the air line on the back of the LIM I put my finger over the whole while it was idling and it got sucked in. So I will build a block off plate for it.
04-27-11, 06:06 AM
#59
I got a strange issue. When I have vacuum line connected to the MAP sensor the car will not idle. But when I take off the vacuum line it will run. I tired with both the onboard map sensor and also a GM 3 bar map sensor and I used the map sensor calibration file.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi4LxlyWfKU
it sounds like the timing is way off. I took it for a short drive around the parking lot when it gets near 2000 ~ 2500 rpm it like hitting wall, it wont rev any higher under load. I have not had to do the timing with a haltech in about 7 years. can you give a quick reminder on how to check the timing with it?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi4LxlyWfKU
it sounds like the timing is way off. I took it for a short drive around the parking lot when it gets near 2000 ~ 2500 rpm it like hitting wall, it wont rev any higher under load. I have not had to do the timing with a haltech in about 7 years. can you give a quick reminder on how to check the timing with it?
04-27-11, 06:30 AM
#60
Does your MAP reading in haltech match with aftermarket boost gauge?
Do you have it set properly (in ECU manager u must set if you are using onboard or external MAP)
TO check timing, you need light, clear marks on pulley and lock the timing in Ignition menu at desired degrees.
If timing marks are stock, you should have right one at 20Deg and left one 5Deg, but you need to verify that with FSM (i am using Racing Beat pulley with different marks)
If your timing lock will be set at 10Deg, you will be about between the marks....
Do you have it set properly (in ECU manager u must set if you are using onboard or external MAP)
TO check timing, you need light, clear marks on pulley and lock the timing in Ignition menu at desired degrees.
If timing marks are stock, you should have right one at 20Deg and left one 5Deg, but you need to verify that with FSM (i am using Racing Beat pulley with different marks)
If your timing lock will be set at 10Deg, you will be about between the marks....
04-27-11, 06:35 AM
#61
Use laptop logging, log as many things as you can.
Hitting the wall might mean secondary injectors kicking it, which will be shown in log
Learn how to log, watch playback in ECU manager and then analyze in Datalog Viewer....its very helpfull when troubleshooting and you can log pretty much any value/input/output....
Log these to show what hitting the wall means....it might be secondaries dumping in way too much fuel..
Injection time
Injection duty cycle
Secondary injection time
Secondary injection duty cycle
Hitting the wall might mean secondary injectors kicking it, which will be shown in log
Learn how to log, watch playback in ECU manager and then analyze in Datalog Viewer....its very helpfull when troubleshooting and you can log pretty much any value/input/output....
Log these to show what hitting the wall means....it might be secondaries dumping in way too much fuel..
Injection time
Injection duty cycle
Secondary injection time
Secondary injection duty cycle
04-27-11, 06:51 AM
#62
Does your MAP reading in haltech match with aftermarket boost gauge?
Do you have it set properly (in ECU manager u must set if you are using onboard or external MAP)
TO check timing, you need light, clear marks on pulley and lock the timing in Ignition menu at desired degrees.
If timing marks are stock, you should have right one at 20Deg and left one 5Deg, but you need to verify that with FSM (i am using Racing Beat pulley with different marks)
If your timing lock will be set at 10Deg, you will be about between the marks....
Do you have it set properly (in ECU manager u must set if you are using onboard or external MAP)
TO check timing, you need light, clear marks on pulley and lock the timing in Ignition menu at desired degrees.
If timing marks are stock, you should have right one at 20Deg and left one 5Deg, but you need to verify that with FSM (i am using Racing Beat pulley with different marks)
If your timing lock will be set at 10Deg, you will be about between the marks....
yeah the haltech read out matches the same to my boost gauge. when I use the onboard map sensor it wont let me load a calibration file for it, my guess is that haltech has a default one for the on board map sensor. I can only load a calibration file when I change the settings to the external 3 bar map sensor.
put the light trigger on L1?
04-28-11, 12:42 AM
#63
Before you do anything you need to zero the timing. This procedure is described in detail in several posts on the board. Do a search with my user name and you'll find the info you need.
I would say there is no problem with the MAP sensor. Sounds like the fuel map is just very lean and that would be why the engine will run with the vac line disconnected. Throw a bunch of fuel at it with the overall trim value and see if it will pick up and run properly with the vac line connected.
I would say there is no problem with the MAP sensor. Sounds like the fuel map is just very lean and that would be why the engine will run with the vac line disconnected. Throw a bunch of fuel at it with the overall trim value and see if it will pick up and run properly with the vac line connected.
04-29-11, 06:06 AM
#64
Thanks ok I got it to idle with map sensor connected I had to turn the over all trim up to 70% to get it to stay running. and bumped it up to 85% until it smoothed out. 85% seams alot of trim to me.
is there a formula that I can apply to all cells to adjust for this amount? That way I can back down % easy? Or should I just highlight the vacuum cells and start bumping them while bring down the overall trim. It starts easy now when it is cold. But after I let run till it reached warm up temp and and turned off then it would not start again until let it cool down.
Is there a way to over lay target A/F map over base fuel map? That way they all have the same points.
is there a formula that I can apply to all cells to adjust for this amount? That way I can back down % easy? Or should I just highlight the vacuum cells and start bumping them while bring down the overall trim. It starts easy now when it is cold. But after I let run till it reached warm up temp and and turned off then it would not start again until let it cool down.
Is there a way to over lay target A/F map over base fuel map? That way they all have the same points.
04-29-11, 06:25 AM
#65
Try this map, stock 550 injectors, 1600's secondaries, should run without trim up
Check all other fields before starting it up (inputs/outputs)
http://rx7cz.net/20B.zip
Check all other fields before starting it up (inputs/outputs)
http://rx7cz.net/20B.zip
05-09-11, 07:54 PM
#69
ok got a couple of questions. I wanted to check before I wired them up.
Wiring in the NGK AFX
AFX yellow to AVI 11 (grey/orange)
AFX brown to signal ground (black/white)
Speed signal to DPI1
2500 pulse / km ?
A/C where do you tap into check if the AC is on?
AC to AVI1
where do you connect DPO 4 shut off the AC after 4500 rpm?
Wiring in the NGK AFX
AFX yellow to AVI 11 (grey/orange)
AFX brown to signal ground (black/white)
Speed signal to DPI1
2500 pulse / km ?
A/C where do you tap into check if the AC is on?
AC to AVI1
where do you connect DPO 4 shut off the AC after 4500 rpm?
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