I am looming my harness right now and before I finalize all the shrink, braided loom and plugs I want to make sure I'm not forgetting anything. Here's what all wires I used and didn't use.

Used:
Ignition
Injectors
Air temp
Coolant temp
Tps
All power wires for ems

Unused:
Avi
Map
O2 input
Aux
Idle
Dsi
Dpo
Dpi
Spare
Home

Does that look correct? The only 2 I'm questioning is "02" and "home". But of there are others that I should be using please let me know. Thanks

 

Also while I'm at it. What's the best/preferred way to wire injectors. Here a mock up of solder and splice methods. Does it matter which way?


Yellow wires split to injectors other would be from ems

 

Are those the power wires? There should be 4 separate wires from the ecu for the inj signals.

And depending on what crank sensor your using, but if your using the factory Cas you should be using home and trigger bundles.

 

Ya those are just for the power. It's not attached to anything. It's just a mock up of splitting the power wires. Trying to get feedback on the best method to split the power from 1 wire to 4

 

Its your choice really...

Personally I did three crimped Ys before they actually split (2 to pri, 2 to sec) to keep stress off of the actual crimps. If you are going to do them inside the loom, make sure they are crimped very well and shrinked very well... because you can't get back into there easily if there is an issue.

E6K I did recently. don't mind the trigger wires. but look at the power wires.

 

honestly the best way is to run four individual wires, one for each inj. i hate having unnessacary crimps.

 

Your saying like my bottom pic?

 

No, like have four individual wires coming off the relay terminal.

 

Ahhh got ya. I still need to get one of those firewall disconnects from you. And to meet up for the tps swap. The harness is almost done. I went ahead and bought the crimpers. So all that's left is test fitting the harness for length one last time. Putting all the plugs on , doing the tps swap and loading the basemap. Oh and test headlights and all that junk from my wiretuck to make sure everything is good on that end.

 

i would run these in the engine bay

Home (shielded bundle)
trigger (shielded bundle)
Ignition
Injectors
Air temp
Coolant temp
Tps
o2 (shielded bundle)
DPO1 (spare)
DPO2 (e-fan)
DPO3 (boost controller)
All power wires for ems

then have these available in the cabin
DPO4 (A/C output)
DPO17 (check engine, useful for troubleshooting)
DSI (A/C request)
DPI1 (speedo input from cluster)
AVI1 (wideband input)
AUX (used for push button switch to control 2-step, dual maps, or whatever)

I would not use DPO1 for the e-fan. DPO1 is the only output that has a pullup, that way you can use it to drive a tach output or mapped AI output or something that needs to see a +V pwm, not just gnd

 

Good tips in this thread. Everything is pretty well covered.

My pro-tip of the day would be on the home and trigger looms. If I'm doing an install here at the shop, I'll cut out one of the cables and re-pin one them to carry both home and trigger signals. This cuts down on the bulk of the harness and cleans things up a bit. It also removes the unregulated 12V and chassis grounds from the harness which, in theory anyway, could decrease the noise exposure of the trigger signal.

 

.and my Tip of the Day would be to Get Chris Ludwig to make your harness for you,and save all that aggravation!!!..Cough.
hey Chris,send me my Invoice!

 

Good info. DPO 1,2,3 i wont be using. I dont plan on runng efan, and ill be using a MBC instead of a EBC. But i will have thoese tucked away just incase that changes.

As far as the bundle of power wires i think I messed up when looming anyone car to confirm.

The PINK one that goes to ING Relay i forgot to loom. Do i need to run that by the trailing coil to the relay or can i tap into the OEM plugs that used to go to the ECU.

The Orange/Blue for the fuel pump + does that need to go directly to fuel pump + wire? My battery is relocated back in the storage bins so I want to make sure so that i can add that to the loom that goes that direction.


Thanks

 

For the pink wire, tap into a switch source near the ECU. ECU power works well. Whatever the source, it must be hot in run and start key positions.

Yes, run the o/g wire directly to the + side of the pump.

 

I ran an extra 5 feet on the O/G to Fuel pump.
I ran along the carpet line on the passenger side rocker panel area,then tucked into the bin and out..then under the deadening to the fuel pump.

 

Ya that what im going to do. My battery is relocated so ill run it with the other wires that go to battery in the rear bin and just continue it under the carper to the pump.

 

So in my setup I use DPO1 for my tach but how can I run a mapped AI also?

 

Just use another DPO to run your AI. We set them up to drive a solid state relay. The relay then supplies power to the AI pump. You can vary pump speed and, as a result, line pressure with the duty controlled output.

Another way to do it, is to control a solenoid at the nozzle. This is how FJO's old systems ran. The solenoid is a nitrous solenoid and the system works much the same way. The pump comes online and builds line pressure at something like 0 psi. Then you start pulsing the valve to start low volume flow at something like 5 psi. You can then bring it all in at whatever level you desire.

 

I wonder what system works better. Either one sounds easy to setup. And Ill be able to map the whole setup through the Haltech.

This setup seems much more simple than the full controller and seperate computer system that most of the higher end kits come with. Basically just a pump and a solenoid?

 

I am just about done with my wiring. I am currently on hooking up the a/c. I found the wires I need to use in the car. Which wires do I use on the haltech harness? Thanks

 

Haha neveind I see in a previous post it was listed.