Haltech Overheating Inj? Stuttering prob
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Overheating Inj? Stuttering prob
Hey I'm having a little trouble right now. When My car is reaching operating temp after i'd say about 10 minutes, the car starts to break up. Now I thought before this was because I was heating up the coolant so hot it was boiling. I flushed the **** browness out of my engine and filled it w/ a cleaner then flusher again and filled w/ some new stuff.
Now that I checked the ecu's telling me I'm only see 187 degrees 190 at the highest.
It then starts to break up again. Once it breaks up, it dies and won't hot start.
Also my injectors are hotter than I think they should ever be. I'm trying to do a street tune now. So i don't think I would be maxxing the injector.
Also this is just revving at a stand still no driving yet.
Any Ideas i'm kinda stumped
Now that I checked the ecu's telling me I'm only see 187 degrees 190 at the highest.
It then starts to break up again. Once it breaks up, it dies and won't hot start.
Also my injectors are hotter than I think they should ever be. I'm trying to do a street tune now. So i don't think I would be maxxing the injector.
Also this is just revving at a stand still no driving yet.
Any Ideas i'm kinda stumped
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Random question, I've been listening to my exhaust, and i can hear each pulse distinctly, but it keeps sounding like there is a metal chattering noise on top of this, what do yu think that would be, bad timing? I checked and it was dead nuts on tho
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Ignition timing does not change much with changing coolant temp unless you have a modified Ignition Coolant Map?
I think most of the default base maps floating around have them flat?
It sounds like your fuel maps and Coolant maps needs tuning.
-Ted
I think most of the default base maps floating around have them flat?
It sounds like your fuel maps and Coolant maps needs tuning.
-Ted
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are any of your sensors going into fault????
My car did that and it turned out to be a bad connection on the coolant sensor, car would run like **** and die when it got warmed up and wouldn't run right again till it got cooled down. Turned out that the connector for the water temp sensor was bad and when it got hot, it would split apart and the ECU would start dumping fuel in like a madman..
check the engine data page to see if one of your sensors is faulting out after the car gets hot.
What's the A/F when it starts to break up???? (you'd better get ahold of a wideband if you don't have one already)
Are you running the stock fuel rails?????
My car did that and it turned out to be a bad connection on the coolant sensor, car would run like **** and die when it got warmed up and wouldn't run right again till it got cooled down. Turned out that the connector for the water temp sensor was bad and when it got hot, it would split apart and the ECU would start dumping fuel in like a madman..
check the engine data page to see if one of your sensors is faulting out after the car gets hot.
What's the A/F when it starts to break up???? (you'd better get ahold of a wideband if you don't have one already)
Are you running the stock fuel rails?????
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Ok I'll have to check that out. I have just a normal O2 sensor in right now to give me an Idea. Yes I am running the stock fuel rail. I'm running just about stock everything right now. I have no intercooler pipes either so.....its not seeing any boost. Still working on completing everything
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Originally Posted by RevinRx7
Random question, I've been listening to my exhaust, and i can hear each pulse distinctly, but it keeps sounding like there is a metal chattering noise on top of this, what do yu think that would be, bad timing? I checked and it was dead nuts on tho
And since you mentioned the fact that you had to flush your engine from to much crud in it id thing thats a possibility.
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That could be a possibility, but I think the reason it needed a flush was to get all the old coolant out. Since it is a used RE motor. But I'll pressure test the coolant system and do a compression check. Thanks for the advice
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