xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

So I searched the hell out of the site and have tried a bunch of stuff... here is where I'm at, any help would be great, up against the wall on this one. Firmware issue? Bad haltech?
All other sensors are registering.

So I quadruple checked the following...
Proper connection from CAS to loom:
CAS - Loom
Red - Yellow (trig +)
White - Red (trig -)
Green - Green (Home +)
W/Black - Blue (Home -)

CAS ohms... OK
Wiring from CAS to loom... OK
Wiring from Loom to haltech.... OK
Directly connected the CAS to the haltech... still no rpm
Tried a second CAS... still no response
Tried a third CAS... nothing
Turned up gain on haltech... no rpms
Haltech is directly connected to the batt
Software: Halwinx V1_26
Firmware: Version No 16, Series 11

Trigger Setup: BTDC:10; Teeth:24; Offset: 11
Trigger Input: Internal Reluctor; Gain: 2; Motronic filter: 2
Trigger Edge: Falling
Home Input: Internal Reluctor; Gain: 2; Motronic: 2
Home Edge: Falling

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Does the software stay connected while cranking?

Take the CAS out and spin it by hand. Do you get an RPM reading?

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

It stays connected when I try to crank the engine over and when I spin the CAS by hand there is no rpm reading and it stays connected. If I let it sit there for a little while it looks like it is reconnecting but not while cranking.

When I turn it by hand I tried to turn up the gain and still nothing.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Open trigger diagnostics page and see what your trigger count at last home is.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

Home Count: 0
Trigger Count: 0
Trigger before last home count: 0

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Yeah so now you know its a trigger problem.
Try turning your trigger gains to 0 and same with the filter.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Also, do a continuity test between the CAS and the connector at the ECU and check to see if one or both of the trigger + wires is shorted to ground.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

Neither are shorted to ground. Also, the grounds are grounded properly.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

Anyone have any other suggestions?

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

Suggestions please? I want to get this beast running again.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

Is there anyway to test the ECU itself? Like connect it to something that would give it a pulse (failsafe?)

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

we told you what the problem is. its not reading rpm. it has to read rpms for it to even do anything. make sure the wireing you have is 100%. check it 200 times if you need to.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

I already knew it wasn't reading the RPM's that's what the post was about... The wiring has been checked and rechecked many times, like I stated. I am looking at other possible problems that can be ruled out, like the CAS isn't sending a strong enough pulse or that there may be a fault in the ECU itself.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

if thats the case... test the cas. if it works, then you are golden.

try regapping the cas.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

The Ohms are okay for the CAS per the FSM. Is there a DIY for regaping?

haydenw

Get a oscilloscope and you will see if there is a problem with the signal output from the CAS

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

its easy. unscrew each sensor, and use a sheet of paper as a stop gap. or the thinnest gauge you can find and use that. then squeese the gauge or paper between the sensor and the wheel tooth and tighten up the screw. vualla!! regapped.

i had to do this on my fc a year back and the idle i got a bit better as the signal is a bit more crisp i think, who knows. it was with a stock FC.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

wait wait wait. we need to know what haltech you are using.

also... when you say you see no rpm, does this mean you also see no activity from the other sensory inputs as well? can you see the correct temp for coolant and air?

does your fuel pump prime?

these are the basics to know that your haltech is at least turning on.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

E6X, all other sensors are registering (all accurate), the fuel pump is priming also.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

turn the car to on, yank out the cas, and spin it by hand. do you get an rpm reading in the haltech? yes?

then you may not be getting power to the haltech when you are cranking the engine over.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Actually, you should be able to tell if the ECU is powering down during cranking by watching the "ecu connected" tab in the lower left part of the screen. If the ECU loses connection while cranking then the power to the box is probably dropping out while cranking. That would indicate improper wiring of the ignition trigger wire.

Alternately, the E6X is very finicky about it's trigger signal input. I've had cars refuse to register if the battery is low and the cranking speed is at all slow. Could be lots of issues with installation and/or setup.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

No rpm by hand, no reconnecting while cranking.

Is there a fail safe way to make the E6X register a signal, like from an artificial pulse?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

very very interesting.

xfeastonarsex

iTrader: (5)

Id say more like very very frustrating.

10yearrx7

iTrader: (2)

Any cure to this problem? my car is down at mazdatrix getting a ps1000 and they are having the same problem.