speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I'm finishing up swapping to an Elite 1500 from a Syvecs and I have a weird issue now.

Chris Ludwig suggested running A13 directly to the ignition switch, so I ran it to the black/yellow wire there, which also feeds into the back of JB-04 and powers the spade connector on the front that we normally tap into. So I thought it would be fine, but the ECU was turning off during cranking. I had the black/white wire from ECU connector 1B powering the water injection relay, so I swapped A13 to that and the wire from the ignition switch to the water injection relay.

When I reconnected the battery, the fuel pump primed. Then when I turned the key on, the pump primed the system two consecutive times.

The car started! WOOHOO! It ran pretty well for a while. Then the idle RPM started climbing. I was bleeding the coolant system at the same time and when the RPM started climbing to about 2000-2500, the coolant got close to the top of the Lisle funnel, then dropped. So I decided to shut the car down for a bit. I turned the key off, and the car stayed on. UH OH! So I disconnected the battery. Still no love. My buddy who was remoted in shut off the injectors for me.

I was thinking maybe it had something to do with the ECU power wire being connected to the wrong ignition switch wire, but it's not even connected to the ECU anymore. I'm wondering if maybe it's backfeeding through the water injection relay, but it shouldn't be possible. I'll disconnect the wire from the ignition switch and see what happens, but I'm not holding my breath. I need to figure out which ignition switch wire would be correct though. I checked for power on all the wires during cranking and didn't have power on any of them, but three of them had power in more key positions than the other three, and that B/Y was one of them.

I need to note I don't have the dash completely installed yet. All the connectors behind the dash are connected, but I don't have it bolted down all the way and the gauge cluster and combo switch aren't installed. I'm not sure those would make a difference, but it's worth noting.

Another change I recently made was replacing the front harness with one from a 95 Touring (mine is a 94 Touring). I've noticed differences before even with another 94 Touring harness, but I compared this one to my original harness and the only difference was a couple ABS wires and I'm not using that anymore. I had issues with the fuel system getting power also. I had DPO 5 going to 1K and 1T (to the speed relay and the diagnostic box/fuel pump relay), but the wires that should have been getting grounded were getting 10v for some reason. So I changed that wire to ground a relay for the pump and that worked. Chris had it wired to 1K and 1T on the Syvecs harness and it worked, so I'm not sure what's going on. I figure if there is something wrong with the fuel pump wiring, there could be something wrong with the rest of the harness too. This is why I don't have the dash fully bolted in yet.

So far I've only seen one thread on here about a car not shutting down and it was due to the EGI relay, although I'm not sure that's my issue.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I changed the A13 ECU power wire from the B/Y to the B/W wire on the ignition switch, and swapped the two wires back to where they were, with the ignition switch powering the ECU and the EGI relay wire powering the water injection again, and it worked! Car starts, and turns off too. However, the idle still climbs after a few minutes. I'll let my buddy handle that one haha.