Im getting a brand new engine built with street port. My current tune Im sure wont be quite right for this new engine. The turbo is stock and will be running about 10psi after I break the engine in.

Some background on the engine after dissembled I dont know if this is relevant but I may have affected my initial tune as far as fuel consumption or some other variables: It lived a hot life, oil passages where toast(I didnt have oil consumption issues I remember but It turned black really quickly). It has a 10Ib flywheel (really light), I was getting 17mpg highway no matter how I drove(I think thats low), Everything is stock except for flywheel and Aeromotive fuel pump. No emissions, Stock injectors.

What is the procedure I should take on 1st start-up and retuning?

How much will my fuel map need to be modified?

Break-in Boost pressures?

 

How much your tune will need to be modified depends on your port. You will have higher compression and expecting better airflow... so it will probably change quite a bit. It is impossible to guess how much it will change, but it will most likely start up fine with your current map (as long as it was tuned well to start) as it is matched to your injectors, etc.

First thing is make sure your timing is back where it should be.

Second, Some people go back and forth on this, but its a generally good rule to stay out of boost for a while. Obviously in your case you will want to pay attention to your oil for symptoms of issues.

Retuning will basically be a complete retune. You will be somewhere close, but you will probably have to touch every cell.

Is this the same engine being rebuilt? Have you determined WHY it lived such a hot life with a stock turbo? Poor cooling system?

 

It was a drifter. Its a JDM import motor. I dont think Im the reason it was so hot. I brought up the history as to provide imput to how the tune may be affected.

I dont have to worry about those things now. Its BRAND new motor except for the front and rear plates. Its being built by Rick Engman. He takes a reman engine ports it and puts it back together.

 

I wish I could meet him someday! That thing is going to be solid.

 

Ask Rick what you need to do for break-in. He has vastly more experience than anyone on this board. As mentioned, make sure the timing is zeroed before running the engine. Do a search of this forum for the procedure.

 

i bumped into him at sevenstock once, quite literally. he seems like a really nice guy, and in fact in the rotary world ALL of the important people are very nice guys, which is awesome.

 

Ive got the engine installed and running got about 170miles driven so far. Its running really good starts up almost instantly which is something Im definitely not used to.

Rick told me to keep it easy for the first 1000miles He wasn't really specific. Ive been keeping the rpms under 3500 or so and the boost under 4-5 psi.

My question is about my timing map. Haltech has some slightly conflicting base maps between the Sprint series and the Sport series. My base map is based off the Sprint RE Base map and the version 1.09 and 1.13.

Can somebody clarify this or show me there timing map that they are using?

 

I am also interested in more detailed explanations and timing table pictures, I started my 13b REW engine with a base series 6 Haltech Sprint RE map and had to greatly play with the timing tables to get the turbo manifold to not glow bright red hot, stock porting and block, had to dial down the tables at idle to -10 to get rid of the glowing..

 

Post your timing maps. Here are the default maps:



I'd say that base/leading map is noticeably retarded in a lot of areas like part load. That's especially compared to the stock timing maps we've seen reverse engineered from the 2nd gen turbo ECU, and also the default timing maps on a Power FC



I'd call that a moderate split map--not aggressive, but not conservative either.

From your perspective though, the leading map is the main one that matters for driveability and exhaust temperatures. Some engines have slow combustion speed (deleting the airpump doesn't help) and need more spark.

 

My guess is that you don't have the timing properly synched. What you're describing makes no sense whatsoever. If the manifold is glowing, that would indicate retarded timing. You then "fixed" it by retarding the timing even further?

Without knowing that you have the ECU properly synched, posting a timing map is useless.

 

There is a video of my engine reving up to like 3000 RPM above.

Here are my current base ignition and rotary split tables: I have only reved it up without load so far, at like 6000k RPM's and like -20 KPA I was getting some popping and red turbo mani with 30-35's in there and played with the settings and dropped the numbers a little more so far, at idle it would stay red until I dropped the numbers and it stabilized the idle without getting too hot.

 

My maps dont look like either of the ones posted.

 

When I look at your map the first thing that comes into my mind is that you are confused about the load axis. The columns towards the left, with - numbers, are vacuum. So -50 kPa is about 15 inches mercury vacuum. Your maps are progressing in the wrong direction. Their drastically retarded from the default map, the one I posted, and those aren't very advanced anyway. Meanwhile you are running a ton of timing in the boost area at low speed boosted areas (many of which you probably can't get to in real world driving).

It's one thing to run -5L at idle, because that's actually stock timing. Those other cells screwy though. You could blow your engine up with a timing like that, or at least have it run like crap.

The same can be said for your split... you are advancing trailing split at higher loads which is the exact opposite of what is normally done.

 

^ What he said.

You have a poor idea of what you're supposed to be doing. Either stop and take some time to educate yourself or take everything to someone that knows what they're doing.

 

Can somebody compare my map? Since Im currently running it right now every day.

 

That was just a base start up tune, yes I had the rotary split fliped, " I said he'll flip you for real" but was still working on it.. Well I copied the ignition and rotary split tables posted earlier on this thread and got the same results on my rev ups.. Could be the 2 year old fuel in my gas tank, altho I mixed 2 bottles of octane booster in with a fresh 5 gallons as well.. Yes my tune still needs work but I like to do things myself and not depend on anybody, I do appreciate the help and the input at all times so thank you all. Now I am not a tuning professional or tuning course graduate but I have got a pretty decent understaning in tuning PCM's, I had the tune on my Renesis engine pretty decent with no problems or glowing red manifolds while I had that engine setup, I have also read Engine management books to "Educate myself" further from a noob point of view, I am still learning and furthering my knowledge in Rotary Engine Management "Tuning", and love to work and wrench everything myself.