I first noticed this years ago with my timing light while zeroing my timing. When you lock the timing in the timing is not supposed to move right? Well ,when I lock the timing on my E8, if I rev the engine an watch the timing at the crank pulley with my timing light, it will gradually become more and more retarded as the rpms get higher. When I let off the throttle and it returns to idle the timing will return to where I had it set. I looses about 1* for every 1000rpm rise, so by 8000rpm I had lost 8* Ig timing. I did make a thread about this back then an got some suggestions, but I think I've now found the root cause. It think it is caused by settings in the 'Quick Tune map' inherited form the haltech base map. Its my understanding this Quick tune will modify the values in the main maps depending on certain conditions, and its always active and cannot be disabled, correct?

If so, this may be the reason for my higher than normal egts at high rpms since I am loosing timing with rpms.

You thoughts on this please.

 

trigger wiring polarity all good??

PS

check your ignition setup page and see if the advanced trigger angle setup box is checked

this allows you to fine tune out the timing drift inherent in reluctor setups

default being all angles set to 70 .. and like all ecus with reluctor trigger . it will drift about half what you suggest ,, naturally,, unless you have corrected it here

your excessive movement hints that you have a signal polarity issue.. and if wiring using the diagram.. all trigger edges are usually set to falling ( and constant charge dwell )

 

My trigger angle is set to 63, with a tooth offset of 10. This is where I was able to get the timing zeroed. Does this sound like trhe issue? You mentioned trigger is 70 as default. Should I try to zero it using different values?

 

The quick map has nothing to do with your issue. When the timing is locked, its locked.

I agree with Bumpstart. Make sure the polarity is correct at the sensor. I'm thinking it is correct and your results are pretty normal. As he said, a little drift is normal. But 8* is a little more than I would suspect. However, if you had the polarity reversed, I doubt your tooth offset and trigger angle values would be so close to "standard". Regardless of all that, as Bumpstart said, you can use the variable trigger angle map to zero out any drift. Start out with all values at 63 and then add to that to restore the timing that is being retarded.

 

What about the Timing Light? I have a Summit Racing $65.00(adjustable chrome) light and another el cheapo one, that both show the same thing. Is it possible that the lights are showing a retard-drift as rpm rises that is not really there, or at least not as bad?

Just want to cover all bases before adding timing to the affected areas.

 

Dial back lights can show a timing drift when there is not one. The cheapo non-dial back lights should not.

What you have is very common. Has to do with the nature of the VR signal and the way Haltech conditions it. This is why the Platinum ECUs have the voltage threshold map. Allows you to tweak out the drift as part of the signal conditioning instead of mapping it out.

If its me, I'd double check the polarity of the sensors and, if that's correct, go to the trigger angle map and fix the drift with that.

 

Thank you Ludwig and bumpstart. I will follow the advise given and repot back.

 

Keep in mind, when you fix the synch issue, you will have effectively advanced your timing map how ever much you add to the variable trigger angle. So, what was a safe tune, may not be any more.

 

just to clarify .. it should be subtract the excessive retard from the trigger advance map value

.. and if you are using 63 .. and the default is still set at 70 for the higher rpms.. then there is 7 degrees of your "drift"

 

^ Correct.