Hey all

don't know if right to put this here, but since I run a PS1000 ECU I'll post here anyways

got my FD tuned about one month ago... all was good on the bench, 1,3bar, everything fine

run a street ported engine, 850 primary, id 2000 secondary, Precision 6266(gen1), walbro 400 pump on OEM hardlines, 3,5" DP and 3" rest, no catalyst
new AEM smart coils from SB and their harness...

anyhow, got it tuned all was good, got in the car going home... pulled real good.. drove for about 35km, and was going fast, caught up with a dumptruck so had to brake momentarily and got in third gear and floored it to get around him.. got boost.. then bang bang...
bad misfire...

turned back to my tuner, and it seemed to be kind of inconsequent problem.. sometimes it came sometimes not on the road

more testing has rowelled it comes after 1 hard pull, 3-4-5th gear.. all good.. then bang bang the nest pull.. if I drive like 2km with no boost, then I can pull hard again... sometimes at 7000rpm sometimes already at 4000, depending of how long time it's been since last pull...
The coils are then not even warm, my IAT is never over 35celcius(V-mount), don't have EGT reading thou... my voltage is stabile at 14+ volts, fuelpreassure is rock steady...
running NKG SD11A plugs Trailing and BUR9EQP Leading..

people around me have been talking fuel pump, alternator and what not,
my attention now I think will be coils, plugs and wires..?
seeams to be heat related? or am I missing something? need a fresh idea

have NKG's 7420 plugs lying in the garage, is it worth to try? or should I swap the wires and contacts on the coils between Trailing and Leading to see if something happens?

hope somebody had the stamina to read it all

/niklas
Sweden

 

Is the battery relocated? Do you have a proper ground from the battery negative terminal to the engine itself?

 

Had the odyssey pc680 18ah battery in the enginebay when all this started, then all said "it's the small battery", so relocated a big 70ah battery in the back, with 32mm2 cabel to the bay.
The ground is put in the chassie in the back. You think I should pull a extra cable to the enginebay aswell?

My first think I could suspect was the reason, was just that the battery got "drained" on amperege, but no difference other then that the car starts more easy with the big battery

No difference now with the big battery or the small one on the misfire thou, same thing...

/Niklas

 

So you currently have a 32mm2 cable running from battery negative to the engine block? If so, that should be sufficient as long as the contact points are clean and tight. If not, add it. 32mm2 is a little smaller than 2 ga. I wouldn't use anything smaller than that.

What plug wires are you using? Do you use dielectric grease on the plugs and coil terminals? What condition are the plugs in? Stock surface gap plugs?

 

No don't have a negative cable to the block, the negativ is bolted in the back...

As I wrote, ngk sd11a (ngk 1199) trailing and bur9eqp leading
No such grease, never used, don't know anyone in this country that does.
Plugs was brand new at tuning time, will swap for new this weekend. And test, probably ad a negative cable aswell just to be sure then.
Direcly to the block?

Edit, sry only read plugs, you meant wires, the wires was bought from SB same time I bought the coils

 

As I said in my first post, you need the negative going directly to the engine. Top of the rear rotor housing is easiest. Do not leave the cable you currently have to the chassis. Remove it. Run the ground to the engine and then a short strap from the engine to the firewall. That's the proper way to setup the grounding. Also, use the dielectric grease. Without it, the chances of the primary spark energy leaking past the boots is greatly increased.

The MSD wire and boots that SB uses are good quality. Should not have a problem there as long as the were assembled correctly.

Lastly, what charge time is the ECU set for?

 

Sweet will set that up this weekend then if there is time... Just bought a house aswell, need some care that too

4.5ms dwell time is set in the ps1000 for the coils

 

still having some issues

just for fun I swapped the bur9eqp for the ngk 7420-9, ran HARD on third gear, zero misses... but at 6000rpm on 4th I felt loss in power, like spark blow out..... didn't see any odd on the plugs when I pulled them...

Im still very fond of getting this **** working... Now thinking I should draw completely new trigger wires from the haltech to the coils, just to rule out the poem wires I have used now...

any thought?

 

Ok guys, finally got around to further look into the problem and went to my mapper and went out logging everything...

Seem like it misses to fire the fuel mixture when I have a IAT under 20 degrees C...
All above works, but after crusing a bit and seeing 16-17 degrees (V-mount), and I WOT, it misses when the turbo spools...

Wtf can I do about it? Run 9s leading and 11 trailing, the mapper did lean it out as much he dared, still on safe side.
Is my only choise to put on a smaller IC or what? 😁 now seeing a max of 45 degrees IAT on track, don't want it too high 😅

 

well, after moving in to a house and so forth a finnaly got around to further look in to this problem

and just in a fluke I found the fakking issue... was going out to the garage and looked at my burgluralarms app in my phone, it said the garage was 12 degrees celsius... great..
went out and turnd on the ignition and my apexi gauges said 12-13 on oil and water to..
the hooked up the PC and started the Haltech program, seeing 6 degrees celsius on IAT

finnaly dawned on me that the tuner hadent switched to the haltech IAT sensor calibration, was still on stock...
****!
that little miss had cost me my season, so hoping for a better 2016!!