Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

First of all, sorry for the book, but I wanted to get everything in.

So the car has been running fine for a few weeks since I put on the haltech with no problems. Normally I have only driven it once a day, if that. Yesterday I drove it right when I got home around 4 then parked it in the garage. When I came out 2 or 3 hours later, it just totally died as I was pulling out of the driveway. I managed to limp it back in the garage but I had to leave in a hurry so I couldn't test. When I got home it seemed to run ok, but I couldn't do anything because it was late and my car is very loud.

Today, I drove it when I got home and it did fine - I drove it for 30+ minutes with no problems. I went inside and came out 2 hours later, and it was cutting out again. Luckily this time I had the logs running, but I still haven't figured everything out on it. First, it was running rougher that normal. As it was idling, I noticed that the tach would stop working occasionally, sometimes for up to 30 seconds at a time. Since I know the tach gets signal from the trailing coils, I pulled off a plug wire to see if it was still sparking. When the tach cut out (which was about half the time) the trailings weren't sparking. Occasionally it would stumble for a second on top of this. I noticed that when it stumbled, the leadings weren't getting spark either. I also noticed from the logs that as far I could tell, there were no times when the fuel injectors stopped firing as well.

So what could cause this? If it was trigger problems, wouldn't it lose ALL spark and fuel at the same time, not just the trailings and occasionally leadings? Could this be problems with the wires going to the coils? Also, it only seems to do it after the car has sat and heat-soaked stuff (the wires are currently routed under the manifold, on top of the engine). I'm very experienced with electronics, but new to the Haltech. Any help is greatly appreciated!

bumpstart

sounds like a trigger / RFI issue

not so sure about E6X,, but on the E8 and better there is a cranking threshold you can adjust to set the point where the ECU considers the car is no longer cranking and reverts to sequential injection and sequential ignition
-ie,, if the ECU sees revs that are under the cut off point, ONLY the leadings will fire
( and all injectors will operate )
this is typical of just about all aftermarket ECU's which revert to non sequential during cranking

i suspect yours is filtering too much signal and dipping below this RPM threshold

you may find the cure is a simple as re-routing the cas wiring away from B+ and ignition leads and coils
( and perhaps adjusting the filter settings )

else,, just check that coils are not running too hot from too high a dwell if in duty dwell mode

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Thats whats so weird - the RMP signal is correct. When I look at the logs, the RPMs never dip below 700 RPM, and thats just when the ignition totally cuts out. Also, there is no break in the injector timing either. The CAS wire is routed away from the B+ wire and nowhere near the ignition wires. Why would it work perfectly for 30 minutes, and then when I come back 2 hours later, with the wires in the same place, have interference?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Here is the log - let me know if you can't view it. When you look and see the RPMs dip to 700 is where the leading spark was failing momentarily.

bumpstart

log file works OK for me

just on a quick glance there is noise in the TPS result
if E6x has deadband adjust like the e8 on then maybe allow 1 -2 % variance on it to prevent it actuating the acel pump inadvertently
and also,, why does the log show battery voltage as 1.8V ?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Is the TPS noise the large jumps toward the beginning? If so that was me moving it. Otherwise I didn't see any variance, bu I didn't look at it in too much detail, I haven't figured out how to zoom on it vertically yet.

I just noticed the batt voltage this afternoon as well when I was looking at another log. It seems that the voltage starts out correct, and the longer the car runs and the more heat-soak it has, the lower the voltage reading gets. I got the harness used and it was pretty half-assed, so I redid tons of the wires. Its starting to look like I didn't redo enough of them, though. I'm pulling the UIM tomorrow to fix a few other things so I'm probably going to dig into the harness as well. There were a number of wires that were just twisted together, so there might be another one that I missed....

On another note, I took it to a drag strip today since there is one real close. I went straight there and did a few runs and it did great (14.0 @104 thanks to awful launch) then left. On the way home I started getting ignition breakup if I got into boost. Again, battery voltage on the log showed very low.
Is that voltage actually what the ECU sees? If so, could that be causing the problems?

bumpstart

i think so,, should be 14.2- 14.4 provided the alt has kicked in
( at least the logs on the last {e6s} i worked on recorded true battery volts in the log )
me thinks youve wired off the alt and its having an issue and may also not be connected to the battery very well via the B+

yes can see where youve moved it,, but it has also a calibration zero error for significant periods,, just off zero
on E8 halwin software you can widen the deadband so it ignores any changes within 1-2%
this is to rule out noises and earth potential issues
hopefully E6 software is similar

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

The power wire is connected directly to the battery via a soldered in terminal so I am certain that the battery side connection is good. I'm sure its something in the harness that I didn't catch when I was redoing it.

As for the TPS signal, my throttle is sticking quite badly at the moment, which is the reason for the offset. That is one of the main reasons I'm pulling the UIM, I'm just going to soak the damn thing in carb cleaner since nothing else is working.