Is there a setting that would cut ignition if it runs too rich?

 

What is your intent with doing so? Trying to avoid fouling plugs? There is engine protection for a set lean value, but it only works that one way.

Skeese

 

I dont have any experience with Elite. However, I do have experience with platinum ECUs.

I dont know if this is the best method, but you can take it how you want.

EDIT: You can trigger ignition cut under engine protection tab, and activate by AFR.

 

I recently had a problem with the ignition being cut--seemed like it was running real rich at the time.

 

FYI you can detonate from running too rich.

 

I only recently realized that when you install a wideband into the bung at the top of the downpipe, chances are it will be damaged from the heat of the turbo. While running auto-tune, I believe that happened which may have caused the rich condition.

 

Yeah 24" minimum from the turbo outlet

 

Please explain to me the combustion mechanics of auto-ignition of an overly rich mixture.

 

Side Note: Unburnt Fuel does not show up on an AFR Sensor...

 

I cant but im sure one of these other geniuses on here can chime in.

Something about residual unburnt fuel trapped in the combustion chamber can preignite on its way back around.

"A rich mixture allows "clumping" of fuel in the chamber. This leads to a slow broken flame front. Tuners some times increase fuel a little to run more ignition advance. The increase in fuel slows the flame front, but go to far and you get poor distribution. The cylinder pressure raising faster than the flame front can propagate through the cylinder. The "clumps" ignite from the increased pressure and explode instead of a nice smooth flame front causing a knock sound. Lean condition is the same but the flame front goes out from gaps in fuel."

 

I can only see this being a possibility in a rotary engine in the unique case of huge amounts of overlap, in a high preturbine backpressure system, at extremely high rpm, with a severely rich mixture, and severely retarded ignition timing. The combination of which you should have well adjusted for during the tuning process prior to pushing an engine hard enough to have a detonation from too rich mixture, if possible.

Just my .02cents. I dont think the condition relates to 99% of rotary owners, nor being a factor for the OP's issues.

Skeese

 

Cool story bro.

People on THIS FORUM have blown their engines from being too rich.

 

Welded a bung towards the rear of the downpipe and put a new wideband in. No cutouts over the past couple of days. Still have more tuning to do.

 

Then their tuner mis-balanced a ton of factors to cause it, not just too much fuel. WAY too much fuel, not enough octane in said fuel, too much timing advance, and I would think using closed port injection angles at high boost/rpm as opposed to sprarying the mixture during the open port adding to the "clumping" and making things worse.

but again I'll say this is my opinion and that I don't see it being the case for OP.

 

I really wish someone else would chime in on this. Some of the people are well known tuners and engine builders.

Never said it was the case. OP never said he was detonating. I even put an FYI at the beginning of the statement when i posted it. Just said it to warn the OP.

You asked me to explain to you the mechanics of it. I did. You challenged it.

 

you copy and pasted the first answer from a google search of deonation from running too rich, so thank you for that.

I'm sure any experienced tuner will agree if you are detonating from running too rich, you have done a really poor job tuning and need to back down the boost and get your afr right before running boost capable of blowing your motor.

 

Did you see how I put it in quotations?

How many experienced rotary tuners do you know not on this forum? I know three experienced rotary tuners.

You didnt know that before I educated you with my google search.

You were 100% sure running too rich wouldnt cause detonation.

Which is why you said....

Thats why I had to explain it to you in the first place.

Theres a common misconception that you can run as rich as you want with the only consequence being fouled plugs and carbon buildup. I was trying to clarify that.

You were wrong. Just admit it and move on.

 

Brap brap kaboom.

Moving on. Have fun with those 7.4 afr's.

 

you can blow an engine from rich-misfire. It can dent the rotor faces. Silver6port blew his 13b from rich mis-fire at 25psi. Rich misfire isn't usually so detrimental until over 1bar+. As combustion pressure increases, the issue becomes exacerbated.

 

Didn't mean to start an argument, guys.

Anyways, until I have it running the way I want it to, I have haltech's electronic boost controller set much lower than even stock levels. At the time of this post, I had it set to 2psi. Currently, I have it set to around 6 as I have the issue mostly handled.
I installed a new wideband, relocated the o2 sensor bung and leaned out the base and coolant temp fuel mappings and it is running *much* better/afr's are where they should be up to ~6psi.
There is still somewhat of a hesitation around 4200 rpm from time to time. I think I need to replace the battery pos and neg wiring to make sure that I've got good fundamentals as much of that wiring is 30 years old, then, if necessary, diagnose from there.
But, until it's running perfectly, I won't be going above stock boost levels(much less my target hp).