Hi guys,
For some inexplicable reason, the ecu started to communicate with my lap top BUT only if the ecu is turned on first and then I bring up Halwin.

Anyway, so I get an RPM signal. I checked timing with a timing light and all channels are lit except the rotor 3 trailing but I'm not worried about that right now. I can smell burnt fuel in the exhaust!

So I have a noob question, how do I adjust starting timing and ignition values? Is there a separate screen for that (like the Wolf unit) or do I change it from the "master maps"?

I went in the Fuel Correction Maps drop down, but I could not make any changes to any of the sub maps (such as prime map).

Please take a look at my attached map and tell me if anything is wrong.

Thanks a bunch.

 

here's the map...

 

I forgot to say that the ecu is an E11.

I still cannot get the engine to start.

I was checking timing today as the engine was cranking and it seemed like the ecu as actually retarding time as the engine is about to start up. I think this is maybe why it won't start.

Is it possible for the ignition map to be inverted somehow? I mean instead of advancing time as it is shown in the ignition map, the ecu is going the opposite direction.

 

This is how i fired up my car for the first time...

1.stabbed the CAS using the factory method... pulley on yellow and the CAS dimple lined up with the hash mark

2.set timing for the 0, 500, 1000 and 1500 rpm range @ 10 degrees flat across the board then increase timing from 2500 rpm up based on an old map

3.Using and old map from my 13b-re I mocked up a fuel map

4. set up my zero throttle map from 3ms @ 0 rpm to 4ms @ 2000 rpm (this way you don't have to fight the osolating idle that keeps you guessing what RPM your at when you make an adjustment to the fuel map) *edit* stock 550 injectors

5.I used an 11 tooth offset... your trigger angle will vary but i started with 65. Your spark mode should be set to Falling for both L&T and the dwell should be set to constant charge (unless your using some other igniton system IE msd boxes) and you should use 4.5 Constant charge time

6.using a remote starter button in one hand and the CAS in the other I could crank the engine and adjust the timing by ear until it started running.

7. once running I could tell the A/F ratio was super fat... I then used the zero throttle map to crank down the injection time until it smoothed out... this caused the idle to increase to about 1800... so i closed down the idle air screw until it was back at 1200ish

8. once it was running ok I locked the timing @-5 and zero'd the timing. my CAS was way out @ 65 so i used 50 as a trigger angle and that brought the CAS back.


9. I then used my zero throttle map as a guide to adjust my fuel maps at the 500 - 1000 rpm idle range and turned the zero throttle map off... unlocked timing and started tuning


to adjust your Fuel and Ignition setting you will have to goto the "Setup" menu where you can select various options

 

So I am having connection problems again.
The ecu is intermittently connecting to the lap top.
When there is a connection, I get spark and fuel. When there's no connection, no spark no fuel.
I'm at the point where I want to tow my car to a haltech/rotary shop and have them make it happen.

 

This seems like a pretty clear power/grounding issue...the reason you are intermittently connecting appears to be because the ECU is powering on and off. Where do you have it grounded and where are you getting the +12v from?

 

Your diagnose makes sense. +12 comes straight from the battery and ground is to the chassis.
I was sure to clean paint around the ground area, but I guess there might be some left. I will try another ground point.

I noticed that the power relay for the ecu has warm to touch. I'll check that too and see if it's functioning correctly.

 

I have a 4 gauge wire running from the battery to the intake manifold, and ground the haltech at that same spot. I also have the engine grounded to the frame with a different 4 gauge wire. No problems with that setup.

 

Ok, so my battery is in the passenger bin inside the cabin. It is grounded to the chassis there.
Just to be sure, I removed the circuit breaker and ran the +12 )2 gauge) cable straight to the battery. The other end of this cable goes to the engine bay and into a distribution block. I checked voltage at the distribution block and it is a solid 13 volts. I am using an Odyssey PC 1200 battery btw.

I checked voltage at the ecu power relay and it is 13 volts as well. Interestingly, when I crank the engine, voltage at the pin going to the ecu drops down to 9.3 volts. Prior to cranking, the ecu does not make connection with the lap top even at 13 volts.

Now as for the connection problem, it still exists. Every time I power the ecu, it primes the fuel pumps regardless if it makes connection with the lap top. So it is getting power.

I did remove more paint around the ground for the ecu in the engine bay, but it did not seem to make a difference. I checked for resistance between the ground for the ecu and other metal areas on the chassis and it is only .5 ohms at the most

Short of running a dedicated wire from the battery - side to the engine bay, I don't know what else to do.

 

I recommend doing what I did, which is run a dedicated wire from the battery direct to the engine (intake manifold is easiest) and ground the ECU at that same spot. I've had no end of trouble with poor grounds on ECU's but this so far has worked quite well.

Worst case you get to eliminate a potential trouble issue and move on to the next

 

I ran a line from battery - side to the grounds of the ecu and msd boxes. The result is the same. Next step; call Haltech.

 

So I sent the unit to Haltech, and it came back clean. No problems were found with the coms. For some reason, it is communicating fine with my lap top now and I am not complaining about that. It still won't start. I get an RPM signal, sparks and fuel.
I am using a DIS-4 for the leading plugs and DIS-4 plus for the trailing plugs. When cranking, the engine seems to want to start but then quickly stalls out. I checked timing on the pulley while cranking the engine to see what is going on. I saw that timing was being pulled as soon as the engine is about to turn over. Crank timing on the Haltech at 10 degrees, but I think the MSD boxes are pulling time away, to ATDC territory.

I checked the timing map in the Haltech and all timing values are BTDC.

The dip switch settings on the DIS-4 are:
OFF for SW1, SW2 and SW3 1234. ON for SW3 5678

The rotary switches on the DIS-4 plus are:
0000090

Based on these settings, is it possible for the boxes to be pulling time at cranking?

Thanks.

 

well, according to the DIS-4 instructions (http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/6211_6215_frm23729.pdf ... pg 10) it won't pull any timing regardless of the dip switch settings until 4000 rpm.

Have you locked your timing when your cranking it?


I see your Ignition cranking map is set to +10 accross the board. I found that mine fires up faster when set @ -8

and you might try leaning out your fuel maps in vacuum just a little more, at least up by the secondary transition

also, are you still using 5 as your tooth offset? What method did you use to stab your CAS?

 

I stabbed the CAS Mazda style and changed tooth offset to 11, 65 degrees trigger angle.
I have not locked the timing while cranking. I did see on the pulley that time is right about 10 BTDC while cranking.
Cranking fuel value is about 9.2 ms. Is that too much?
I also adjusted the fuel map at idle range (500-1000 rpm) to be around 2.2 ms

 

the fuel inj time is dependant on fuel pressure, injector size, fuel pump etc... if everything is stock then 2.5ms should be good ballpark for idle, but i think your 9.5ms during cranking is a way to high... even if you add in the coolant temp map @ 50% when cold(60-80f degrees), it should still be down by 3ms or so. I know my car likes running lean at idle 12.5 to 13 AFR( nice having 550 primary injector).. I kept fouling plugs until i leaned it out.

I would give you my map, but i am running non turbo with a 1 bar map sensor

 

I give it another shot at 7.5 ms fuel for starting.

Another thing, the water and air temps are about 10 degrees warmer than ambient temp. I am using Haltech sensors and I calibrated the sensors using Haltech calibration built into the software (1.71). I did a sensor diagnostic and the sensors came back with error. What does that mean?

 

You cold use a stock cosmo WT sensor. I have a formula to calibrate it.
I used nissan sensor calibration for haltech IAT sensor. It works close to true.

The cosmo's WT sensor formula:
R=2.45*EXP{3500*(1/(T+273)-1/293)} KOm, T [C]

Enjoy

 

I switched to the calibration for stock mazda sensor, and that worked out much better

Now the thing is, the engine started!!

But, it wouldn't do it on it's own. I had to open the throttle a little bit while cranking. It would only run if I open the throttle a bit. As soon as I let the throttle out, it stalls out. There's a loooooot of fuel coming out of the exhaust.

Could fouled plugs do that?

Here's my map. Please take a look and comment.

Also, trailing #3 is not working.

 

cant see your map...the zip file isn't working...

as far as your trailing plug not working, if you are checking with your timing light it is because you foulded your plugs. put new ones in and try again

I decided to lean the hell out of my fuel map in the idle range because I got tired of thowing 45 bucks worth of plugs out everytime i fouled them

I had to crack my throttle to get mine fired up the first time to. you can adjust your throttle stop screw on the back side of the upper throttle shaft. it's a 7 or 8 mm jam nut and small flat scewdriver

 

I try again with the map....

also, I am using 550/1680 injectors
MSD DIS-4 for leadings and DIS-4 plus on trailings

aeromotive fuel pressure reg, 40 psi during cranking

I will also check the gasket between the UIM and LIM. maybe there's a leak.

 

what firmware/Halwin are you using?

 

It is possible that your throttle just goes too far shut. Mine did at first. Wire up the BAC or adjust the idle screw.

 

i am using 1.71

 

so playing around with the settings tonight, I realized that the throttle closed fuel setting was zero for all rpms. I figured maybe this is why it wouldn't idle. So I increased the value to about 2.2ms upto 4k rpm. It didn't change anything. Still won't idle with the throttle completely closed.

Holding the throttle slightly open, it idles but was throwing about 4.5ms of fuel! I use stock 550 primaries and 40psi on the FPR. I am going to turn off the secondaries just to be sure that they are not throwing fuel. They shouldn't be....but just in case.

 

the BAC valve is not hooked up to the ecu, could that be why it wouldn't idle?
as of now, the engine is getting air via the screw on top of the throttle body.....