Okay, I just finished installing an E6k into my 3rd gen. I wired it up according to the wiring diagram on the Ricemobile site, with the exception that I have the terminated harness and only used the stock wiring for ignition, fans, tach, speed, fuel pump. Now the problem! The car only starts if I hold the gas pedal all the way down. Once it's started, if I let off the gas, it stops. Plus, while it is running, it only feels like 1 or 2 plugs is actually firing. The fuel side seems to be fine, so I'm guessing ignition. Anyone else had similar problems or know the answer to the problem? Thanks...

Don

 

see other posts on this same subject

 

I read the other posts, but they didn't make much sense. For instance:

"for CAS install set the e shaft at 90 degrees before TDC. this means from TDC you will turn the e shaft counter clockwise 90 degrees. then insert CAS with the pointer on the P/U coil inside the CAS. set the ignition setup to 70 or 75 degrees and timing lock on and engine should start."

What do I set 90 degrees before TDC? The piece sticking out of the wheel or the groove cut into it? Also, this line totally confuses me: "then insert CAS with the pointer on the P/U coil inside the CAS. " P/U coil inside the CAS? And I know what TDC & CAS stands for. My understanding when I bought the Haltech from RP, all I had to do was install the computer/wiring and load the program onto the laptop, then I'd be able to start the car up and tune it. Are you guys talking about 3rd gen 7's?

 

the ECU needs a certain amount of time to make all the calculation for the engine. 70 to 75 degrees is what Haltech recommends, this is set in the ignition setup program. you want to have the engine a TDC the rotate the e-shaft counter clockwise 90 degrees. then insert the CAS with one of the pointers inside the CAS pointing at the pick up once installed rotate so the pointer is on the pick up. this will allow you the 70 to 75 degrees for the ECU calculations as well as about 20 degrees advance. it is not necessary to be exact but it needs to be eye ball close to get the engine to start. once the engine is running with the timing lock set you can zero the timing(very important). once the timing is "zeroed" the ECU knows and can calculate the exact crank angle as the engine rotates and can make all the appropriate calculations for fuel and ignition. the Hitman's site has a very good description on this part of the installation if my rambling instructions are difficult to decipher. I hope this helps.

 

Okay, just talked to Ari and found out all this information is for 2nd gens. I have a 3rd and my CAS is stationary and I don't have to do all of this pre-startup stuff with mine, that's why I was so confused about what you where talking about. Still not sure about my problem, though. Anyone with a 3rd gen had this problem?

 

sorry about the confusion of models. some of the same problems I wrote about may still be valid. if the CAS is installed and wired correctly then go through the rest of the ignition "zeroing" steps. also check the engine output page and make sure the rpm is showing a correct number while cranking, approximately 600rpm. if it is reading 150-180 and occasionally jumping to 1000 rpm then there may be a problem with the ECU not picking up the CAS signal at low rpm. once the engine is running you will need to work on the tuning and verify with the timing light that all spark plugs are firing. it may be necessary to change the plugs as they may be fouled from raw fuel.

 

Ouch, some bad advice in this thread. FC wiring and setup is different that FD, not by a ton, but different.

Did you lock your timing? It should be somewhere around 67* on the Haltech. Did you calibrate the TPS? Do you have the BAC hooked up, is it setup properly in the PWM options? Email me you map and I can see if things are setup proplerly or within reason. Where did you get the map from that you are using?

 

I got the map from Ari, at RP. Everything is okay on the map. I did some messing around and it looks like the Haltech itself is defective. I tried a couple of things. The car was only starting when I pressed the accelerator all the way to the floor and as soon as I let off the pedal it shut off. It only felt like one plug was actually firing. So what I tried was I took #1 inj connector and plugged it into #1 & #2 primarys at seperate times and tried starting it. Started up same way on both trys. Then I tried #2 inj connector and got nothing both times. So then I was curious and tried #3 & #4 connectors on both primarys and still got nothing. I took out the Haltech computer and measured #1,2,3 & 4 inj pins. I got a reading of like 2.010 k ohms out of #1, but got nothing out of 2,3 &4. Then I also started thinking, I've had my leading coil go bad before & the car still ran with just the trailing coils going(actually beat a mustang with it like that), so I was wondering, even with just one inj going, why didn't the car stay running with my foot off the pedal. I started to check my ignition and found out that both the trailing plugs weren't firing. I have extra good coils and igniter laying around, so I made sure they weren't the problem and they weren't. I actually used your wiring diagram to hook it up and have tripple checked every connection since. Also checked out the wiring harness I got with the Haltech and it is fine. Also noticed that the cover on the back end of the Haltech looked like it had been removed before, cause the 4 screws were over torqued/slightly stripped and one wasn't in all the way. Looks like I may have just gotten a rotten Haltech! I'm going to send it back to Haltech tomorrow to check it out...

Don

 

I am not sure what map Ari is giving out right now. I sent him the wiring I did and a map that has the proper setup, but he still might be selling the 8509s and giving out the old map.


Ignition:
Do you have the MSD8509s installed? If so, the wiring for the igntion is a little different than my site. If you bought the 8509s and installed them, you need to follow Ari's ignition wiring that he most likely sent you. If you did not install the 8509s and followed the wiring on my site, you need to modify Ari's map in the setup to use the inernal reluctors. You can get that info from one of my maps if you need it.

Fuel:
I believe it is injectors 1 and 2 that are primaries and 3 and 4 are secondaries, so when cranking or just idling the car should only be firing injectors 1 and 2 (ie primaries).

If you know anyone locally that has an E6K you can try theirs and see if it works. That is the easiests way to see if you have a bad unit.

Rev. Dr. Jay
http://ricemobile.net/

 

He gave me the map that doesn't use the MSD's. I'm pretty positive that everything is hooked up right. I checked over about 3 times to make sure. I sent out the ecu today, so hopefully it's the problem... For the inj, if you're looking at the 4 connections that came with the harnesses, the 1st and 4th con. is for the secondaries and the 2nd & 3rd is for the primmaries. On the plug, where you plug in the inj harness, 1 & 2 pins are primmaries and 3 & 4 is sec. Had to use an ohm meter to find out which con. were which. Glad I didn't just assume that the connectors were in order. I also tried starting the car with the inj on multipoint, which fires all of them together, and left the secondaries disconnected, but still got the same results. I wished I did know somebody near by with a Haltech, so I'd know for sure. Anyone willing to let me borrow theirs?

 

Started the car tonight and I'm getting the same exact problems. I also don't have the use of any of my stock gauges. I'll post more when I can figure it out.

 

ok, I got my instruments working again. I don't image people who piggy back the stock ecu with the Haltech to have this problem, BECAUSE it appears that there is a missing ground in the X-14 harness. It is part of the stock harness that is with the engine and it utilizes the ground on the upper intake manifold for all of the gauges. So find the white X-14 connector in your car and the black wire associated with it will be on the one to ground. Just to clarify it is Black on one side of the connector and black/blue on the other side and it is one of the corner wires. After looking through the wiring diagrams, I believe that the gauges are the only thing affected.

 

Ok, I have tried several maps on the net (including ricemobile's site) and I have found the stock 550/850 maps to be the closest with the least amount of problems. After connecting a trim **** and taking out 12.5% fuel at idle it runs better and starts easier. I will dyno tuning tomorrow, so I'll have some more results then. I included a map of some of the fuel taken out at idle if you would like to try and see if it gets you closer to running smoother.