I bought the flying lead, wired everything up. Black wire with ring connector is on battery. Red 13AWG and Black 13AWG have gone to pos and neg terminals, but the 3A fuse in the fuseblock doesn't get power nor does the haltech. Whats wrong!?

 

Got the grey (i think its grey, i forget) wire hooked up to 12v igniton (hot wire cranking) usually black/yellow on the car, test with a DVM

 

Actually, the grey wire needs to have 12 volts at engine crank AND ignition on key positions, but NOT in the accessory position. Like Mike said, use a meter to backprobe the wires going into your ignition switch (a copy of the factory wiring diagram is a big help here too) and figure out which wire will provide 12 volts under these conditions.

Here's a hint: If all else fails, you can connect the grey wire to the positive wire connected to your ignition coils.

BK

 

I am not worried (yet) about getting the ecu to turn on during cranking, I just want to get the ecu to turn on for diagnostic purposes, which leads will turn the ecu on when I directly connect them to the battery?

Thanks for the quick responses!

 

Grey would do it right?

 

The computer has constant power via the big red and black leads, the grey wire is just an ignition trigger... Kinda like a remote on wire for a car stereo amp ...So yes its the grey wire that powers it up..

 

It is the switch right?

Now I got it turned on and It gives me software comp errors, says I need a later version of software. Does anyone have a later vers than 6.34? I called haltech but they are all on vacation!

 

Actually, no. . . the grey wire is NOT the ignition trigger. The grey wire is the field wire that energizes/closes the ECU power relay. You're going to need to connect this to the switched 12 volt source to complete your installation anyway, so why not do it now?

BK

 

Because I am not ready to start the car.

 

It doesnt matter if you are gonna start the car or not, its a intergral part of the wiring, it needs to be done regardless of what order you do it in, so just connect it to a hot while cranking source now..

 

I just wanted to get a map on it. Where does everyone recommend splicing the grey?

 

Take another look at my first post in this thread.

BK

 

Do the coils have power when the key is in the 'on' position?

 

The coils AND the ignitors should have power to them when the key is turned to the crank and run positions.

BK

 

If the coils are mounted on the firewall, where are the ignitors?

 

Some coils have the ignitors built in, others do not. The ECU doesn't connect directly to the coils. Rather, the ECU commands the ignitors to alternately charge and discharge the coils. The ECU ignition drivers are not capable of providing a sink to ground capable of handling the voltage/amperage required by the coils. The ignitors are basically transistors that are capable of handling the role of charging the coils. Some automatically control dwell and are called "smart" ignitors, others do not and are called "dumb" ignitors.

You're going to have to figure this out on your own. If each of your coils has three primary wires connected to it, then the ignitors are built into the coils. If there are only two primary wires connected to the coil, the ignitors will be on the end of these wires opposite of the coils.

BK

 

Two wires I believe, I have the stock FC coils.

 

Another hint --

The OEM calls an ignitor an 'ignition module.' Therefore, if your car came from the factory with an 'ignition module' seperate from the coil/s, then THAT is where you'll find your ignitor.

Making any sense here?

BK