Haltech Haltech PS1000 ecu dies!
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Haltech PS1000 ecu dies!
Hey everyone, I'm having some trouble with my fb rx7(It has a Turbo II engine swap). I have a ps1000 ecu in my car that seems to randomly shut off. All my grounds and power connections are fine and my data log shows nothing out of the ordinary for the sensors. For the last two weeks I have been trying to get my car to the tuner but it never fails to start acting up the day before my appointment. At first thought I believed it was the ignition switch so I disassembled it and cleaned all the contacts and put it back together. The car started and drove fine afterwards. Today as I was driving around and the car would randomly die again. When this happens my fuel pump, and electric fans would also turn off like the ecu is not sending power to the relays. If I cycled the key sometimes I could hear the fuel pump prime and the ecu would come online again and the car would start. Other times (more frequently) when I cycled the key the pump would start to kick on but would suddenly stop priming. If I cycled the key on and off eventually the pump would prime fully and the ecu would remain online where the car would start. Like I said this happens randomly at an idle sitting still and even when I am driving the car at any load/rpm range.
#2
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Higgi has the same problem, and so did i but with the E11V2. if you do a search Higgi has a thread, and he put a light on his so he could see that the output side of the ECU shuts down.
we both had/have 20B's so we were thinking because the 3 rotors use all the outputs its the ecu overheating. keeping the ecu cool does seem to help, but doesn't fix it.
so hopefully this isn't you, and good luck!
we both had/have 20B's so we were thinking because the 3 rotors use all the outputs its the ecu overheating. keeping the ecu cool does seem to help, but doesn't fix it.
so hopefully this isn't you, and good luck!
#3
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my E11V1 was shutting down completely (connection to laptop dies, car dies) - sent it back to haltech, got E11V2 instead and sold it...
now my PS2000 had 'only' problem with overheating injector driver and cutting that part, everything else was working, it just stopped controlling injectors) - fixed it by cutting hole into case, installing 2 computer PSU fans and keeping it cool.....
now my PS2000 had 'only' problem with overheating injector driver and cutting that part, everything else was working, it just stopped controlling injectors) - fixed it by cutting hole into case, installing 2 computer PSU fans and keeping it cool.....
#6
Rotary Freak
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Bringing this back from the dead.
I have a street car that stops working when it gets really hot.
It has to be a 35+ degree day and the car has to have been running for an hour + and computer stops pumping an injector and spark pulse.
Still gets a crank/home pulse and shows as everything is in order.
If you swap the computer for a cold computer out of another car it starts straight up.
Any ideas?
I have a street car that stops working when it gets really hot.
It has to be a 35+ degree day and the car has to have been running for an hour + and computer stops pumping an injector and spark pulse.
Still gets a crank/home pulse and shows as everything is in order.
If you swap the computer for a cold computer out of another car it starts straight up.
Any ideas?
#7
talking head
well , suggest maybe a PC fan blowing on the case heat sink might cost next to nothing and be easy enough to prove
but my personal suspicion is some of these issues may be linked with insufficient earth path to the battery that deteriorates as resistance increases with the connection point temperature
as an example i had a very similar experience recently when i had my LPG tank removed and inspected
when i reconnected everything, ( battery in the boot ) i neglected one of the major earth cables
only hooking up that which ran back to the starter long bolt
there was enough connection ( via engine mounts etc ) for the cars devices to work and the ECU ( e8 ) to operate
during cranking it would hard start .. as it warmed up it would shut off the fuel pump relay
( which runs the solenoids on my LPG tank )
and the car would shut down
similar, i could induce the same fits if the engine hit the setpoint to operate the radiator fans, or if i turned on the lights or interior fan
it seemed i had a problem when hot.. or when at higher voltage demands ( fans running ) the ecu would run the ignition erratically or try and bounce the tank solenoids ( fuel pump relay )
i looked all day and rewired lots of things before i had the eureka moment at the first cider break
-put on the - body- earth cable .. and bingo
but my personal suspicion is some of these issues may be linked with insufficient earth path to the battery that deteriorates as resistance increases with the connection point temperature
as an example i had a very similar experience recently when i had my LPG tank removed and inspected
when i reconnected everything, ( battery in the boot ) i neglected one of the major earth cables
only hooking up that which ran back to the starter long bolt
there was enough connection ( via engine mounts etc ) for the cars devices to work and the ECU ( e8 ) to operate
during cranking it would hard start .. as it warmed up it would shut off the fuel pump relay
( which runs the solenoids on my LPG tank )
and the car would shut down
similar, i could induce the same fits if the engine hit the setpoint to operate the radiator fans, or if i turned on the lights or interior fan
it seemed i had a problem when hot.. or when at higher voltage demands ( fans running ) the ecu would run the ignition erratically or try and bounce the tank solenoids ( fuel pump relay )
i looked all day and rewired lots of things before i had the eureka moment at the first cider break
-put on the - body- earth cable .. and bingo
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#9
talking head
oh,, but double check what injectors are in each bank and double check the injector current settings
if you have rochys in them use the low ohm peak hold settings
( IIRC 4 amp peak to 1 or 1.5 amp hold )
if you have rochys in them use the low ohm peak hold settings
( IIRC 4 amp peak to 1 or 1.5 amp hold )
#10
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Bringing this back from the dead.
I have a street car that stops working when it gets really hot.
It has to be a 35+ degree day and the car has to have been running for an hour + and computer stops pumping an injector and spark pulse.
Still gets a crank/home pulse and shows as everything is in order.
If you swap the computer for a cold computer out of another car it starts straight up.
Any ideas?
I have a street car that stops working when it gets really hot.
It has to be a 35+ degree day and the car has to have been running for an hour + and computer stops pumping an injector and spark pulse.
Still gets a crank/home pulse and shows as everything is in order.
If you swap the computer for a cold computer out of another car it starts straight up.
Any ideas?
Only solution to the problem was fitting computer fans inside ECU case, cutting the case of course - to let air in it.
When this was happening to my 20B racecar, i thought its issue with low/high impedance injectors and lots of inputs/outputs in use. Now, since its doing same thing in the RX8, i am sure its issue with some faulty chips in ECU.
#11
It wasn't me!!
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same kind of stuff was happening to my car, changed looms rewired everything... even changed ecu.. found out it was my external map sensor. The haltech wasnt picking up the signal lost, and I never saw an fault on the ecu... I switched over to the on-board map sensor and she works fine now.
hope this helps
hope this helps
#12
Hey...Cut it out!
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This is strange, but not entirely unfathomable. I emailed Haltech about this odd shutdown issue, concerned that mine would fall on its face as my PS2000 is using all of its outputs for the 20B twins. Haltech replied and said they've not heard of a shutdown issue when using all of the available I/O
Got logs on this? I'd like to see more about it so we can get this issue fixed properly.
Got logs on this? I'd like to see more about it so we can get this issue fixed properly.
#13
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When it first happened to my 20B setup, there was no show of anything out-of order in the logs, wiring in diode to injector output showed up its the all of the sudden cutting out the injectors.
Later on, we figured its heat related, fitting fans to ECU case solved the problem.
I have same ECU in rx8 now with much less outputs used, in the heat of the engine bay and without fans, it started shutting down even at idle....hooked up the fans and its running fine....
I have contacted the Haltech about the issue when it first happened with 20B setup , tried different settings of INJ impedance but it made no difference. Now in rx8 it does not share anything with the 20b setup (different trigger, different ignition, different injectors) and its doing same thing.....i belive it must be hardware issue, as no firmware updates or downgrades changed anything....
Later on, we figured its heat related, fitting fans to ECU case solved the problem.
I have same ECU in rx8 now with much less outputs used, in the heat of the engine bay and without fans, it started shutting down even at idle....hooked up the fans and its running fine....
I have contacted the Haltech about the issue when it first happened with 20B setup , tried different settings of INJ impedance but it made no difference. Now in rx8 it does not share anything with the 20b setup (different trigger, different ignition, different injectors) and its doing same thing.....i belive it must be hardware issue, as no firmware updates or downgrades changed anything....
#14
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To reply to my original post, my problem turned out to be a defective poly fuse within the ecu. Haltech said it was just a bad part and was not a common failure. The signs and symptoms of a bad poly fuse is the car dying randomly and this will happen more and more frequently as the poly fuse acts like a switched fusible link that will deteroriate more and more as the ecu switches on and off over time. Eventually the poly fuse will stop making contact and leave the circuit open all together and the ecu will stop powering up the accessories (electric fan, fuel pump etc...)all together. Keep in mind the whole time I never lost power to the ecu, the little lights would light up but none of the accessories would remain powered up.
#15
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Bringing this back from the dead.
I have a street car that stops working when it gets really hot.
It has to be a 35+ degree day and the car has to have been running for an hour + and computer stops pumping an injector and spark pulse.
Still gets a crank/home pulse and shows as everything is in order.
If you swap the computer for a cold computer out of another car it starts straight up.
Any ideas?
I have a street car that stops working when it gets really hot.
It has to be a 35+ degree day and the car has to have been running for an hour + and computer stops pumping an injector and spark pulse.
Still gets a crank/home pulse and shows as everything is in order.
If you swap the computer for a cold computer out of another car it starts straight up.
Any ideas?
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