I want to put on a Water injection kit and I need suggestions on where to put the nozzle.
Should I put it before the IAT (which is in my Greddy compression tube).I have an extra hole in my Compression tube but the IAT sits almost directly across from it,so I am afraid that the water would screw up the Iat somehow.
Should I move the IAT to the manifold somehow?( maybe drill the manifold and place it a runner?,and run the WI nozzle at the elbow?
Run the WI after or before the turbo?
any suggestions Lads??..(Chris?)
thanks alot in advance.Dave/STYX.

 

run it before the turbo.

 

I'd agree with that. You will not hurt the sensor with water. Methanol will ruin them though. Pre-turbo has many advantages when done correctly.

 

Ok,let me get this right.Lately I am screwin up making KD!
Before turbo..meaning on the Air filter side?,or after the compressor's outlet ..2 inch snorkel lookin thingie!..?
Sorry,still learnin ****!

 

in between the air filter and turbo.

 

Have you ever heard of water erosion. If you inject pre turbo you are going to ruin your compressor wheel. 60,000 rpm + water will trash your turbo........ Google Turbo water erosion and look at the images..

 

You ever hear of experience trumping Google? Google it.

 

My water/meth 50/50 mix is 18/24 inches before the IAT sensor. It's only a 600cc M10 nozzle with a 150psi pump. Recently went from water/air intercooler to air/air. Well after the change over my air temps were 145f. Then installed the water/met injection and air temp dropped to 125. My front mount is hid behind the front bumper. Very little direct air exposure.

Use to inject water pre turbo 10 years ago for several years. Never had a turbo wheel erosion problem. That's when I was trying to get more power out of a smaller turbo.

 

LOL TOO funny

 

Why the switch to air to air intercooler? I am running a water intercooler, and so far at 10psi (on a to4s) the results have been positive.

 

Water air is great. But do this for a few years. Getting ice at 10$ every time I go to the track and having to replenish the ice in the ice box after every run was getting tiresome. Now with the little shot of water/meth injection the air temps are not far apart. And just being able to relax between runs is great.

10psi on a TO4s, is nothing when it comes to air temps.

at 30psi on a S480 and it went though ice like I was just throwing the ice on the hot asfalt. 10 to 15 lbs of ice a run. It got old after a few years of this.

 

Ohhh, you are running a race car? Got you

 

Thought about going with a heat exchanger to cut back on the ice and run coolant throw the water/air intercooler. I think for a street car it would have worked great but did not think a heat exchanger would work at the track.

Very pleased with the cheap ebay front mount.

Doing the change over saved me 60lbs

 

Yup, I am using a heat exchanger thats its 3/4 the size of the actual radiator Only reason why I went with this setup is because the installation was simpler, intercooling piping is way shorter, and the [real reason] my WI tank is taking about 1/4 of the space where a FMIC is supposed to go.

So by switching to A2A you daved about 60lbs? Ice shops around the track are now taking a hit after you changed your setup lol

 

My ice box held 2 to 3 gallons of water, two 8lbs bags of ice, two bilge pumps. three 3/4 hose from the middle of the car to the front. The water intercooler was heavier then my air/air intercooler

It's nice to just drive by the gas station and not have to stop for ice. Carrying around two ice chest was a pain.

 

Ever hear of proper research trumps trial and error. It would be wise to heed the advice of others and learn from their failures than make the same mistake by ignoring their warnings. Pre-turbo injection may work but it will not work for long.

Let us do the math, a compressor wheel of 2-3/4" diameter has a circumference of 7.85 inches, the wheel tips rotating at a moderate 50,000 rpm's travel at a speed of 32708 feet per minute or 371 mile per hour.

A piece of aluminum roughly 1/32 of an inch thick being pelted by droplets of water traveling at approximately 400 mph is going to start distorting to a point that the extremely delicate balance that the factory put on it will begin to shift. Your now unbalanced water abraded compressor wheel will start to show signs of mechanical interference where moving parts start to collide to the point that the mechanism is no longer efficient at performing or in an operation state.

This scenario does not take into account variables such as operating temperature, malleability or most importantly cost.

 

I heard this same thing 10 years ago and still today. Ran pre turbo water injection for years on the same wheel. ABSOLUTELY no issues.

You cant just take a water hose to the turbo but a properly sized jet will do wonders for a small turbo. The wheel is so hot I dont thing 50% of the water actually touches the wheel. Just evaporates from the heat. just my opinion

 

The heat is generated by compressing the air I don't see the benefits of injecting until the air temps are peaked. Evaporation is the ideal, you want to transfer the heat energy out of the charged air into the water by evaporating it. The ideal is to use the water to quench the hot charged air. Water injection has been run in bomber engines since World War II and was used to run low octane fuel in combination with superchargers and not have the motor detonate itself to death. There is a plethora of literature on this out there if one where to research it.

 

Some of us have tried pre tubo wi, have you?

Yes, I've heard the horror stories, I've read them, and even seing pics of the "aftermath".

 

I have not tried pre turbo injection to be honest. I do not intend to come off the wrong way as someone who likes to knock it before I try it. I have seen far to many pics and vids of injector nozzles in the air filter or intake plumbing. In my opinion injecting before the intercooler is the optimal point of injection and that is only to assist the intercooler with exchanging some heat by using the mist as a conductor. Water injection has only one function and that is to prevent detonation, not act as some type of turbo cooling system or majic boost juice. I f you are having issues with your turbo getting too hot it is because the turbo is being pushed way past its efficient operating range. If you dont push your car that hard very often it may not be a bad option. My goal is to build a 7 and make it run strong for a long time I have been through too many experimental builds and made some pretty stupid mistakes to keep wasting money.

I am a Plant Maintenance Superintendent in a factory with over one thousand workers and trust me I have the experience by dealing with people pushing equipment far beyond it's boundries or "fixing" equipment to make it run better and the good ole moron on a daily basis. There are more reliable ways to get those few extra ponies out of these cars.

 

"I have not tried pre turbo injection to be honest."

enough said.

 

 

i have tried it for 10k miles of hard boosting. nothing happened.