Haltech Haltech Help and Otehr question
06-06-05, 08:23 PM
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Haltech Help and Otehr question
Hey guys!
I have a problem with the HAltech E6X i have installed in my 1997 Tiburon.
First of when im at a complete stop or just have the car started i noticed i have a 1-2 second delay when i PUNCH the gas pedal all the way down.
With my Stock computer i never had this problem as when i Floored the gas pedal at idle it will rise quickly.
BUT if i keep a steady RPM and then floor it it will be fine.
For example if im reving the car at 2000rpms for about 5 seconds and then Floor the Gas pedal all the way down it respoonse quick BUT if im idleing and then floor it, IT will have a 2 sec delay...
You think this has to do with the LARGER Aftermarket Intake manifold and 70mm TB i have installed?
OEM TB is 52mm and the Intake manifold Runners are smaller.The aftermarket Intake manifold has Longer Runners..
Im thinking the Injectors just DUMP fuel and doesnt no and thats why it has a delay at Times and its probably a machanical problem as opposed to the HAltech?
Finally my last problem i have from what my machainc tells me is that my Timming Belt Walks under load when it was on the Dyno.What he did was make the tensioner a Bit tighter but teh DAM car has a Loud wisling sound when you rev the car up?
You can tell it sounds tight..
My two questions to this is why im i getting Timing belt walk and he has to tighten it so it wont coem off?
Its not liek im running crazy HP YET as im breaking in my new motor?
Its Only 6PSI spring at about 160WHP .
Stock is 140 Flywheel HP which is about 115-120WHP
Once the motor breaks in then i will hit about 15psi............
ANy help would be appreciated
I have a problem with the HAltech E6X i have installed in my 1997 Tiburon.
First of when im at a complete stop or just have the car started i noticed i have a 1-2 second delay when i PUNCH the gas pedal all the way down.
With my Stock computer i never had this problem as when i Floored the gas pedal at idle it will rise quickly.
BUT if i keep a steady RPM and then floor it it will be fine.
For example if im reving the car at 2000rpms for about 5 seconds and then Floor the Gas pedal all the way down it respoonse quick BUT if im idleing and then floor it, IT will have a 2 sec delay...
You think this has to do with the LARGER Aftermarket Intake manifold and 70mm TB i have installed?
OEM TB is 52mm and the Intake manifold Runners are smaller.The aftermarket Intake manifold has Longer Runners..
Im thinking the Injectors just DUMP fuel and doesnt no and thats why it has a delay at Times and its probably a machanical problem as opposed to the HAltech?
Finally my last problem i have from what my machainc tells me is that my Timming Belt Walks under load when it was on the Dyno.What he did was make the tensioner a Bit tighter but teh DAM car has a Loud wisling sound when you rev the car up?
You can tell it sounds tight..
My two questions to this is why im i getting Timing belt walk and he has to tighten it so it wont coem off?
Its not liek im running crazy HP YET as im breaking in my new motor?
Its Only 6PSI spring at about 160WHP .
Stock is 140 Flywheel HP which is about 115-120WHP
Once the motor breaks in then i will hit about 15psi............
ANy help would be appreciated
06-06-05, 08:45 PM
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Its rather simple really, 3 words, Tuning, and Throttle Pump. These are the main factors for the behaviour. Proper Throttle pump adjutments can make the engine respond a hell of a lot better.
06-06-05, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
Its rather simple really, 3 words, Tuning, and Throttle Pump. These are the main factors for the behaviour. Proper Throttle pump adjutments can make the engine respond a hell of a lot better.
What do you mean by this..
Sorry im not Incliend in this feild...
What is the throddle pump issue and does it have to do with tunning teh HAltech or a machnical issue
My machainc says it has to do with teh LARGER intake manifold which has Longer runners.
Also can you help me with teh Timing belt issue i have?>
I also forgot to mention taht at i have an aftermarket Cam sproket,with this have to do with teh walk also?
Thanks!
Last edited by Tibby; 06-06-05 at 09:28 PM.
06-06-05, 10:05 PM
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The haltech is a universal system, meaning it can be installed an a wide variety of vehicles, regardless of intake manifold length and throttle body diameter. The throttle pump feature is designed to add an extra quantity of fuel when you make sudden moves on the throttle.
Here's an example. You are sitting at a red light, engine at idle. You press the gas to the floor when the light turns green. The throttle plates open so quickly, there is now a lot more air introduced to the engine and the injectors don't have time to catch up with the fuel scheduling. This will cause a hesitation and stumbling. The throttle pump will boost the fuel being delivered in these circumstances. You can set how much fuel boost is added, and for how long it last. There are 3 different RPM ranges that you can set this for. 0-1500 RPMs, 1500-3000 and 3000+ RPMs. You also can set how much throttle movement is needed to activate this feature. Its all in the Haltech manual.
As for your timing belt issues, I found it sorta ironic that you post a question about a timing belt here in a RX-7 forum because rotary engines don't have timing belts. They don't have cams shafts or any of that crap I mean stuff found in a piston engine.
Here's an example. You are sitting at a red light, engine at idle. You press the gas to the floor when the light turns green. The throttle plates open so quickly, there is now a lot more air introduced to the engine and the injectors don't have time to catch up with the fuel scheduling. This will cause a hesitation and stumbling. The throttle pump will boost the fuel being delivered in these circumstances. You can set how much fuel boost is added, and for how long it last. There are 3 different RPM ranges that you can set this for. 0-1500 RPMs, 1500-3000 and 3000+ RPMs. You also can set how much throttle movement is needed to activate this feature. Its all in the Haltech manual.
As for your timing belt issues, I found it sorta ironic that you post a question about a timing belt here in a RX-7 forum because rotary engines don't have timing belts. They don't have cams shafts or any of that crap I mean stuff found in a piston engine.
Last edited by Project84; 06-06-05 at 10:08 PM.
06-07-05, 03:04 AM
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You're asking Hyundai question in an RX-7 forum?
You gotta be kidding me right?
I would suggest you find another tuner.
Your current one doesn't know what he's doing.
-Ted
You gotta be kidding me right?
I would suggest you find another tuner.
Your current one doesn't know what he's doing.
-Ted
06-07-05, 06:51 PM
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Are your injectors in the TB??
I have a similar problem with hesitation and I have not yet been able to tune it out 100% completely.
If the injectors are in the TB and you have a long intake manifold - when you open the throttle quickly, the increased pressure in the manifold can cause the fuel to condense on the manifold wall.
The colder the manifold, the worse the problem.
I'm pretty sure that is what's happening - at least in my case - because my wideband O2 meter tells me so.
If I punch the throttle, it gets VERY lean and over the next few seconds it gets VERY Rich (as the deposited fuel makes it into the engine)
Using the accelerator pump function helps somewhat, but it mostly it just makes things MORE rich after the lean part passes.
For me also - no problem if the throttle is punched from cruising
Steve
I have a similar problem with hesitation and I have not yet been able to tune it out 100% completely.
If the injectors are in the TB and you have a long intake manifold - when you open the throttle quickly, the increased pressure in the manifold can cause the fuel to condense on the manifold wall.
The colder the manifold, the worse the problem.
I'm pretty sure that is what's happening - at least in my case - because my wideband O2 meter tells me so.
If I punch the throttle, it gets VERY lean and over the next few seconds it gets VERY Rich (as the deposited fuel makes it into the engine)
Using the accelerator pump function helps somewhat, but it mostly it just makes things MORE rich after the lean part passes.
For me also - no problem if the throttle is punched from cruising
Steve
06-07-05, 07:03 PM
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If the fuel is sticking to the manifold, you need to add extra fuel via the throttle pump feature. It will supply enough fuel to overcome the loss of the fuel sticking to the manifold and allow the engine to accelerate without stumbing. As I said earlier, it has a feature that lets you set how long this extra fuel last. This is so you don't make it more rich when the sticking fuel does make it to the engine. As the engine speed increases and the extra fuel isn't needed, it should be set to gradually reduce back to the normal amount of fuel that would be injected based on the fuel map. I'm no super-pro tuner, but basically it sounds like a tuning issue.
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06-07-05, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by haltechrx7
Are your injectors in the TB??
I have a similar problem with hesitation and I have not yet been able to tune it out 100% completely.
If the injectors are in the TB and you have a long intake manifold - when you open the throttle quickly, the increased pressure in the manifold can cause the fuel to condense on the manifold wall.
The colder the manifold, the worse the problem.
I'm pretty sure that is what's happening - at least in my case - because my wideband O2 meter tells me so.
If I punch the throttle, it gets VERY lean and over the next few seconds it gets VERY Rich (as the deposited fuel makes it into the engine)
Using the accelerator pump function helps somewhat, but it mostly it just makes things MORE rich after the lean part passes.
For me also - no problem if the throttle is punched from cruising
Steve
I have a similar problem with hesitation and I have not yet been able to tune it out 100% completely.
If the injectors are in the TB and you have a long intake manifold - when you open the throttle quickly, the increased pressure in the manifold can cause the fuel to condense on the manifold wall.
The colder the manifold, the worse the problem.
I'm pretty sure that is what's happening - at least in my case - because my wideband O2 meter tells me so.
If I punch the throttle, it gets VERY lean and over the next few seconds it gets VERY Rich (as the deposited fuel makes it into the engine)
Using the accelerator pump function helps somewhat, but it mostly it just makes things MORE rich after the lean part passes.
For me also - no problem if the throttle is punched from cruising
Steve
All i have is 440cc injectors in my Intake manifold.
I went by my machanics place and i did mention about teh throddle pumps and he did say that weather he Richens or Leans it the problem is still present ONLY at 1000Rpms but crusing and then punching the gas i have NO problems.
He said its a machaincal issue becuase of the increase in Air.
So basically there is no way around this?
06-07-05, 07:32 PM
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Project84's reply is the answer to your question, play with the throttle pumps on the 1000 rpm setting, add or take away fuel and sustain untill you get the hesitation to disapear, it could also be too much fuel. That's why that feature is there.
And i also think your tuner might not be the best advocate of Haltech knowleadge, since he is not willing or unable to tune the car right.
Haltechs can be tuned to perfection with patience and proper knowleadge of your engine and the ECU.
And i also think your tuner might not be the best advocate of Haltech knowleadge, since he is not willing or unable to tune the car right.
Haltechs can be tuned to perfection with patience and proper knowleadge of your engine and the ECU.
