Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Hi everyone. First time using a Haltech and have tried to google/search for resolutions to the problems I'm having. If anyone can help that would be appreciated.

electronics installed are-
Haltech elite 2500
Rywire engine harness
Rywire IGN-1a harness
AEM smart coils

The problem I'm running into is that I overheated one of the ignition coils. Specifically T2. After some research i found that i should set the Haltech to Direct Fire instead of waste spark. So i swapped out the coil, changed the setting, and plugged everything back in. The car started and idled but i noticed that the T2 coil is getting really hot again. The other 3 coils feel cool to touch. I unplugged the Rywire harness and eventually after a hour it cooled down but I'm afraid to connect it back in.

Not sure how the Rywire harness is wired since they don't provide a pinout/wiring diagram. But it does say to run 12v from the battery to the positive post that they supply.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

If their harness is designed to work with an OE ECU or PFC, then the Haltech will need to be setup as wastespark. Get out the multimeter and see what pin on the ECU each A pin at the coils in connected to and report back.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

The rywire harness is a direct plug and play to the haltech ecu. no patch harness required.

The rywire ign-1a harness has a deutsch connector that plugs into a prewired deutsch convector on their single turbo harness. So basically their instructions state to just wire battery +12v to the junction post that they include in the kit. the rest is all pre-wired and plug and play.

I did check for continuity from the coils to the ecu. the readings are as followed

A-plug
pin 3- IGN 1 = l1 coil
pin 4- IGN 2= l2 coil
pin 5- IGN 3= t1 coil
pin 6- IGN 4= t2 coil

resistance reading on those circuits was .5 ohm or less.The i/o chart in the haltech also reads the same pin assignments.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Ok. With that info, ignition setting should be direct fire, falling edge. Set it up that way and then disconnect the coil that’s getting warm and measure voltage on the A terminal of the connector. You should see 0v with the key on, engine off.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Those are my current settings. On pin A with the connector unplugged from the coil, I'm reading 18.6mV. Another thing to note is that no matter what connector I plug in, that same coil gets hot within 15 sec.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Ordered another new ignition coil. I think this second coil is bad out of the box so we will see what #3 does.

GucciBravo

You might want to correct your sensor data before trying to start the car again.

Coolant Temperature is rarely below Air Temp, so that's probably on an incorrect dataset (one or both).
Throttle Position isn't set.

These two are basics, which makes me think the critical stuff hasn't been gone through yet.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

Good looking out! you are correct. A lot of the vehicle has not been gone through yet since the coil over heated with just the K.O.E.O so that has been my main concern.

Since the coil won't be here until mid next week I will be taking care of the other items this weekend.

Unkachabull

iTrader: (7)

It was a defective coil out of the box. Thank you for the help!