As the title says, Yes i have installed a Fd motor into a FC. Wondering about the timed input wire, and the 8v wire, And the Bac wire to hook up (which ones) I figured for the bac the 12v switched wire and a one of the PWM wires, But which one. And do i hook up the timed input to the yellow/blue wire at the stock coils for the tach to work. Everything else is done, Pretty close.

 

The BAC in the REW motor is just a 2 wire deal so 12V on one side and the other can be any PWM output.

The 8V power wires are for Hall Effect sensors that require that voltage instead of 12V.

Timed Input wire is for Road Speed or AC activation, or NOS/Antilag/Flatshift Switch, etc.

The tach wire should be PWM1 and the settings should be 50% duty, 4 cylinder, and the pull up to 5V, if the the tacho doesnt read right, change the pull up to 8V, or to 12V.

What ignition system will you use? stock coils/igniter? MSD? LS1 coils?

 

I`am using the stock T2 ignitiers/coils.

 

Well i have everything finished. Just waiting for new motor mounts, And the front turbo was sent to BNR for a basic rebuild. Need to wire up the fans, And may do a electronic boost control solenoid for the Haltech. Going to have Chris Ludwig do the tune. I`ll post the complete wire to wire conversion sometime this week and have it inspected by Claudio RX-7 so i know its been done correct, I`ll post a couple of pictures too.

 

I have an FC with a 13B-rew with stock twins and an E8.

If your going to try and controll the stock sequential twins, I would recomend not using the stock solenoids, they un reliable after many miles are on them, there other industrial solenoid choices in the 20 dollar per range, I used 6 MAC 3 way valves (same part as the haltech boost control solenoid), but If I could do it over again, I would use something smaller, quieter and with lower current draw, probably clippard 3 way mouse valves.

Also the stock FD ignitor is better than the FC trail ignitor with the toggle system.

 

Going Non-Sequential.

 

I'd put that comment to the test. The toggle system maaaaay be the weak link, but those coils have been proven to be powerful under a lot of conditions, especially with control over the dwell.

You're doing what now? With an E8?? It can handle the 13B in a sequential/staged manner with no problems, why would not want that?

 

I didn't say anything bad about the coils, just the ignitor.

What I finaly settled on was a stock trailing coil pack with 2 lead ignitors in its housing.

It takes 3-5 outputs and 5-6 sollenoids to control the twins, and its very worth it.

 

You seen this thread? It can actually be done with 2 or 3 outputs. Does work well, and there are several ways to go about doing it.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...+twins+haltech

Edit: Yeah, saw you did towards the end there. Are you still using the stock twins being controlled by the Haltech? any feedback on the results and performance?

 

I used 3 outs counting the wastgate (closed loop) and turbo pre control (PWM'd from wastgate map) and one RPM switch, with 6 seprate 3 way solenoids.

It works very good. The limitation to the system is how much boost you can run on turbo #1 just pre transition, without having a DIP/rush in power at the transition, and the fact that you have to have a hard transition RPM irregardless of throttle position. With no intercooler (methanol injection instead) and a non restrictive exhaust its possible to have 15 PSI or more at 2500 rpm or less. That has to taper back to 10 or so then back up to 15.

I have the solenoids that do the actual switching connected to the haltech by way of a relay (to protect the haltech from excess current draw) and a manual switch that allows me to put the car in parrallel only mode at any time which makes for better fuel econ and in traffic driving.

All in all the system is less complex than everyone makes it out. There is in total maybe 15 feet of vac hose with a total of 10 or so connection which could be further simplified by using manifold valves rather than individual valves.