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Haltech FC: How to keep your wipers/cruise/stock cool. temp

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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:10 PM
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FC: How to keep your wipers/cruise/stock cool. temp

There's been alot of questions floating around at different times when people install a Haltech (or any other) standalone in their 2nd gen with regards to keeping the wipers running as factory.

Alot of people run new wires, splice things into other wiring, ditch them completely or god knows what else.

This is a picture of the plug you're after. This is on my S4 TII, I don't have an S5 to check, but would imagine the plug is the same/similar and in the same spot but don't quote me if its not an S4 TII. To get it seperate, you simply need to trim back the loom and tape from the stock harness, and feed the wiper plug through the grommet. You can retain the original clips for it all if you like, but I opted to cut/redo the coolant sensor. The cruise and wipers are 100% OEM wiring however.



The plug contains the wiring for:
Wipers
Cruise
Stock coolant temp
Stock cooling fan (sender ontop of water pump)
A few other non-essentials

Basically, everything you'd consider keeping, all in one neat, seperate wiring harness that you can retain with your standalone.

Hopefully this helps some folks out during their install - cheers
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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That's the orange plug!

Check my wiring installation notes. I list the colours in there from the leads coming off that same plug. It's a bit of a pain but if you want to keep those goodies that's the guy.

B
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Old May 5, 2009 | 12:06 AM
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classicauto how did you rewire them to run like factory? thanks
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Old May 5, 2009 | 06:21 AM
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Say, you rewired and re-wrapped your harness didnt you?! That looks pretty! Got pics of the engine bay side??
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Old May 5, 2009 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by full-cruise
classicauto how did you rewire them to run like factory? thanks
Thats the point, there's absolutely ***NO*** wiring to do. You simply remove that section of the harness that is pictured from the stock engine harness and plug it all back in. Nothing to cut AT ALL.

Originally Posted by claudio RX-7
Say, you rewired and re-wrapped your harness didnt you?! That looks pretty! Got pics of the engine bay side??
Yes I do, no shots of it on the bench though, camera was MIA at that point in time.
Note its not on a haltech though...don't hate!! TECgt for me this time...

Coil wiring


Firewall


Engine


Everything is wrapped/labelled and all connections were made without solder. Racheting crimp tools are badass!
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Old May 6, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by classicauto
Thats the point, there's absolutely ***NO*** wiring to do. You simply remove that section of the harness that is pictured from the stock engine harness and plug it all back in. Nothing to cut AT ALL.
this is one of those times i wish i had PC connection at my shop..

anyways ill check out the harness and try to put 2n2 together,, but you setup looks clean
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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hey Classic, thanks for the pic. im in the process of cutten out my wipers and cruse from my main harness, but i found several extra wires that i dont know where they go to. i have a S4 TII w/ sub zero start, but even still, i have 4 extra wires.

1: brown /red stripe with blue spots running twords the large factory ECU plug.
2: yellow / white with brown stripe heading into the engine bay side of harness.
3: brown / blk with blue spots same destination as #2.
4: green / blk with brown spots same destination as #2, someplace in the engine bay. heres some pic of each pin.

if you look closely at image #1, you can see the 4 wires im questioning, i have a black twist tie on them to keep it separated from the rest that i know of.

#1


#2


#3


#4


sorry for the poor picture quality, i only have a cell right now. thanks for your help guys.
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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hmmm....

IIRC there were a few wires that I trimmed, but I think two of them were for factory temp sensors, one in the block for the stock gauge, the other in the waterpump. I re-wired those with new wire (from the plug to the sending unit) I think.

I would just take a multi meter or continuity tester and quickly stab some of the important things, or namely anything in the engine bay you'd like to keep, to make sure they're not tied into it though.

I guess I should re-write some of this a little better LOL But I was mostly just reffering to the wires for the wipers etc. that you can keep without cutting

Hope that helps, post back with what you find!
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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so far i have figured out what the cables are. as soon as i posted last night i realized that the green / blk wire was the thermo sensor above the water pump, the yellow / white is right above the outlet for the heater / by the oil pressure sensor i believe. i've chased the yellow / white cable back to the ACV and that little bunch, i dont really want to cut anymore further since thats where the main britleness of my harness is at. but it is the only yellow cable i can see in this loom.

additionaly i've found out that the br/r cable is for the pressure sensor to the dash / ecu (they merge latter in the harness closer to the ECU plugs) and the B ( brown / blk ) is a ground i believe, because it splits into mutiple strings heading back into the engine bay (as a possible ground for throttle sensor, Variable resistor, pressure sensor, water thermo, intake air temp and so on) ( FSM: Wiring Diagram 22)

and i found out that the sub zero is just a loop of a blk / red cable going to the actual fixture and coming directly back out to the FEM-01 plug to the sub zero sensor. ( FSM: Wiring Diagram pg 31)

my questions so far:

the sub zero stuff. how can i cut it out, or what would i need to put in to trick the car that it isnt there.

the pressure sensor cables. since the B one is a ground (i believe) can i just ground it to the frame? since im eventually goin to get a Haltech and all.

then what am i suppose to do with the br/r cable (pressure sensor), leave it wraped up one end? or put a resistor onto it and somehow make the factory boost in the gauge cluster work somehow?

and for the water thermo and oil pressure? (dont know if thats exacly it) just run then to the new sensors?

heres a pic of the yellow / white cable still pluged in before i removed the engine and all.



thanks again for your help guys.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Violent Gravy
my questions so far:

the sub zero stuff. how can i cut it out, or what would i need to put in to trick the car that it isnt there.
Cut them out, it won't know the difference. mine were snipped and taped.

Originally Posted by Violent Gravy
the pressure sensor cables. since the B one is a ground (i believe) can i just ground it to the frame? since im eventually goin to get a Haltech and all.
I would make damn sure it is a ground before tieing it into the frame. Just check for continuity between it and the frame before hand.

Originally Posted by Violent Gravy
then what am i suppose to do with the br/r cable (pressure sensor), leave it wraped up one end? or put a resistor onto it and somehow make the factory boost in the gauge cluster work somehow?
I couldn't get my factory boost gauge working (never tried) because I was under the impression its driven by the factory ECU/sensor, so by removing the factory box, you lose it. It may be able to be made to work, but I don't know. Mine doesn't.

Originally Posted by Violent Gravy
and for the water thermo and oil pressure? (dont know if thats exacly it) just run then to the new sensors?
The oil pressure wire should run with the driver's side of the harness. So you won't be touching that one. the water temp for the gauge, I just attached a new wire to the plug at the start of this thread, and ran it with my new harness over to the sending unit. Did the same for the one on the water pump.
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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If for *some* reason the stock ECU was MIA is there any way to rewire the wipers to get the variable speeds back? Or is that all controlled within the ECU itself. Having only 1 speed has been plaguing me for weeks.
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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Should be able to. I do not believe the wiring is tied into the ECU at all.

I have no idea where they run from that plug (on the body side) to the wiper switch though. I can tell you that with none of the factory plugs plugged into the ECU, and the ECU in the trash, the wipers work on all speeds on my car.

I would ask RETed as I know he's an advocate of re-wiring the wipers when doing a standalone install. he can probably guide you on which wires to hook where.



Do you have the plug pictured at the start of the thread on your car?
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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I'll have to check. The car is currently in transit as I just moved to the west coast. 1 more week before I get to stop worrying it will get damaged in transit. I'll definitely hit up RETed for his opinion as well, thanks.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 06:21 PM
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worked good for me good write up
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 12:31 AM
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Can someone tell me which wires from the wiper motor go to that connector ?

I made the mistake of cutting the wireing harness but not ditching it. I know you guys mentioned above it`s for an S4T2. I have an S5 N/A and that dark yellow/orange connector looks the same as mine and by the way I got rid of the cruise control. I am assuming that the wire colors for the wiper motor are the same. I just want my wipers to work again.

And if the rear wiper is also associated with that connector that would be helpfull.
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 10:23 AM
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The wires from that plug go directly to the wiper motor.

So if you go purely by wire colour/stripe you *should* be ok.

I don't believe the rear wipers are tied into that plug at all, but I don't use mine so I can't really say for sure. But wouldn't think so...
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