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Haltech E6K T-II issues

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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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From: high point, nc
E6K T-II issues

Ok, so ive got an 87 T-II with 550/750, bnr stage 1, stock coils, stock cas, and a E6k. I just got it running and it runs like ****. Its acting a little wierd. Ill de-flood it and get it started. It will run up to about 2k rpm with 80-100% throttle but wont rev past that and doesnt sound like its running correctly. If i pull the fuel pump fuse while im doing this, it will then start to rev and sound right until it runs out of fuel. Sounds to me like i have too much fuel. The car was running fine before i installed the haltech. Ive been trying both the hitman stock T-II map and claudio's 550/800 t-4 street port map with no success. What am i doing wrong??
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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From: san diego
have you zeroed the ignition timing properly? and what is the afr while its idling?

if you are sure the igntion timing is right ( somewhere between 10-20 degrees at idle on the leading) then you have a fuel issue. but just saiying you pulled a fuse and it ran better means nothing unless you can verify an afr.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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cant verify the idle since it wont idle. Ive got the timing locked the way it says on hitmans site. Its got to be an over fueling issue since the car seems to run right when i cut the pump off. i guess i need to check my rail pressure. If i were to disable injector outputs, and the car still acts like its overfueling, then it should be stuck open injectors. If it gets no fuel when i do it, it should either be too much rail pressure or the haltech is requesting too much fuel. Does that sound right?
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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so, i turned my injector trim for 1/2 to -13 and 3/4 -5. It now idles and revs but still not smoothly.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 11:57 PM
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From: san diego
the easiest way to find the needed amount of fuel for idle is to turn off all of the correction maps, then turn on the zero throttle map. then reset the tps, but for the zero throttle setting open the throttle about half way. this will create a dead spot so you can use only the zero throttle map for tuning. from zero to 100 percent just put a flat line of fuel, select the whole row and start to raise the whole line unitl it starts. with 550 primaries it should idle at about 2.9 ms so id say start about 2.0. once you can get it to idle well with the zero throttle map then you can just take that fuel value and put it into the map at your idle vaccum.
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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From: high point, nc
Originally Posted by JSP john
the easiest way to find the needed amount of fuel for idle is to turn off all of the correction maps, then turn on the zero throttle map. then reset the tps, but for the zero throttle setting open the throttle about half way. this will create a dead spot so you can use only the zero throttle map for tuning. from zero to 100 percent just put a flat line of fuel, select the whole row and start to raise the whole line unitl it starts. with 550 primaries it should idle at about 2.9 ms so id say start about 2.0. once you can get it to idle well with the zero throttle map then you can just take that fuel value and put it into the map at your idle vaccum.
dude, rock on. that **** worked. i was able to get a steady 760rpm idle out of it. the car still smokes like crazy though. I still need to transfer the numebers to the normal maps. Ive got it at about 2.5ms right now.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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i have to fastest spooling turbo ever. Im making 10psi at idel!!!! Ok so we know thats wrong. Im gonna see whats up with my map sensor and then start my tuning over with hopefully a better start.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:38 AM
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From: Grand Prairie, TX
Make sure you've got the Trigger Angle and Tooth Offset portions of the map in the Ignition Setup set right:

- Tooth Offset of 11 if you've never removed the CAS and is inserted in the factory way
- Tooth Offset of 3 if you're attempting to insert the CAS according to HITman's method
- Trigger Angle around 55-70* depending on how the CAS is aligned

Wouldn't hurt to set your Trigger and Home pickup Gains to 1 and 2 respectively.

B
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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From: high point, nc
Originally Posted by BDC
Make sure you've got the Trigger Angle and Tooth Offset portions of the map in the Ignition Setup set right:

- Tooth Offset of 11 if you've never removed the CAS and is inserted in the factory way
- Tooth Offset of 3 if you're attempting to insert the CAS according to HITman's method
- Trigger Angle around 55-70* depending on how the CAS is aligned

Wouldn't hurt to set your Trigger and Home pickup Gains to 1 and 2 respectively.

B
not sure what your advice has to do with the map reading boost at idle. I did have a hunch, so i played with some settings today. If i change my settings to a 1bar map, the map reads correctly. So it looks like i have a 1bar rather than the 3 bar it was supposed to have.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:56 PM
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From: n
Are you sure it's a "1 bar" MAP?
If so, the Haltech has no idea you're going into boost.


-Ted
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 11:02 PM
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From: high point, nc
yeah, im pretty sure. when i had it set to 3bar it read 28.9psi with the engine off. If you change it to 1 bar, the vacuum readings match my boost guage. I got this unit used off of ebay, so there is a good posibility of it being the wrong map sensor. My friend is going to bring me his 3 bar sensor to try on the 31st.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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Ok, so i borrowed my friends 3 bar sensor. It worked perfectly. I reloaded my base map and locked the timing at -5. It cranked right up and idled. Ive got a new one ordered. As soon as it gets here, ill be loading it up on the trailor and having it tuned.
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