Haltech E6k install no spark (yes another one)
E6k install no spark (yes another one)
Well i just got through wiring up the whole thing like i wanted it. I went to start it but i checked to make sure both relays were clicking on and the fuel pump was priming (which it was). I tried to start it and i got nothing. It seems to only spark when i cut the key on to crank it over and when i cut the key off. I double checked the CAS wires and they are right according to this site i was referring to http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm . Im assuming its an ignition coil wiring problem. The tac will jump also when the key cuts on and when it cuts off and doesnt move while cranking. If it helps im getting a cable so i can link my laptop to the ecu today and check everything on the computer. This setup came off of a bridgeported fd with stock coils and mine is an fc with stock coils. Is there any difference in how the trigger is setup that i need to change in the tune? Any ideas?
FC trailing use a toggle to swap between front and rear rotor trigger, whereas the FD uses individual triggers. It worries me a tad that you have wired it in without researching this. You need computer connected to set trigger angle etc as well...
finally got the computer linked with the ecu and changed all the ignition settings. I cranked it over with the engine data page up and all the sensors were putting out good readings but it was reading 0 rpms.
Assuming you're using a 2nd gen crank angle sensor and factory ignition:
Home and Trigger types both set to Internal Reluctor, Gains both set to 2
Trigger type multitooth, trigger angle 65, tooth offset 11 (assuming it's inserted stock way)
Trigger mode Adaptive
Spark mode Distributor
Engine Type Rotary
Output Type Const Charge, Dwell 4.5ms, Spark edge Falling
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After setting up those trigger settings, if you're still getting 0 RPM while craning, then you've got either a disconnection in your wiring to the crank angle sensor or the four wires aren't wired up correctly to it.
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What ignition settings?
Assuming you're using a 2nd gen crank angle sensor and factory ignition:
Home and Trigger types both set to Internal Reluctor, Gains both set to 2
Trigger type multitooth, trigger angle 65, tooth offset 11 (assuming it's inserted stock way)
Trigger mode Adaptive
Spark mode Distributor
Engine Type Rotary.
Output Type Const Charge, Dwell 4.5ms, Spark edge Falling
B
Assuming you're using a 2nd gen crank angle sensor and factory ignition:
Home and Trigger types both set to Internal Reluctor, Gains both set to 2
Trigger type multitooth, trigger angle 65, tooth offset 11 (assuming it's inserted stock way)
Trigger mode Adaptive
Spark mode Distributor
Engine Type Rotary.
Output Type Const Charge, Dwell 4.5ms, Spark edge Falling
B
[Mazda Crank Angle Sensor]
- There are four wires that come out of the Crank Angle Sensor: RED, WHITE, GREEN, and WHITE/BLACK
- The Haltech trigger harness is shielded and contains these small-gauge leads: BLUE, RED, GREEN, and YELLOW
- Wiring connection:
Mazda CAS -> Haltech Shielded Trigger Harness (wiring explanation)
RED YELLOW Trigger + (Purple on MSD 8509) (trigger pair)
WHITE RED Trigger - (Green on MSD 8509)
GREEN GREEN Home + (Purple on MSD 8509) (home pair)
WHITE/BLACK BLUE Home - (Green on MSD 8509)
- There are four wires that come out of the Crank Angle Sensor: RED, WHITE, GREEN, and WHITE/BLACK
- The Haltech trigger harness is shielded and contains these small-gauge leads: BLUE, RED, GREEN, and YELLOW
- Wiring connection:
Mazda CAS -> Haltech Shielded Trigger Harness (wiring explanation)
RED YELLOW Trigger + (Purple on MSD 8509) (trigger pair)
WHITE RED Trigger - (Green on MSD 8509)
GREEN GREEN Home + (Purple on MSD 8509) (home pair)
WHITE/BLACK BLUE Home - (Green on MSD 8509)
Ok so i checked my wiring like you have it and i have it exactly like that ^. I did notice that whenever im cranking the car the computer tells me to reconnect the haltech and wont read throttle when i pump it while cranking. Thats tells me that i may have a bad switched 12v source. Seems like all the ones in the fuse box cut out during cranking though.
Yep, switched +12V source is on a source that's being cut of power when cranking the starter. Try using the 6-prong green clip that's just behind the driver's side headlight. Perfect spot since you've got to send the light green signal wire to the leading ignitor/coil pack. On that 6-prong connector, the one that has switched +12V, that's tied to the EGI main fuse and remains on while cranking, is the upper-center one.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM




