Haltech E6k ignition tuning question
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,793
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From: Southern California
E6k ignition tuning question
I am such a newbie at this, so please forgive me if this is a stupid question. I am currently trying to set up my ignition properly.
On my haltech (E6K) base map ignition setup reads a 3 tooth offset. How do I know I have the CAS inserted properly? I have tried everything, but cannot get the car to idle.
I have 3 marks on my pulley. 2 next to each other, and one off by itself. I am assuming the second of the 2 marks is 5atdc. If I line up this marking, and insert the CAS, which tooth should it be on? 0, the 3rd?
Can someone explain how the CAS should be installed so that I have the timing set correctly to start with?
This is on a cosmo engine with a TII ignition.
On my haltech (E6K) base map ignition setup reads a 3 tooth offset. How do I know I have the CAS inserted properly? I have tried everything, but cannot get the car to idle.
I have 3 marks on my pulley. 2 next to each other, and one off by itself. I am assuming the second of the 2 marks is 5atdc. If I line up this marking, and insert the CAS, which tooth should it be on? 0, the 3rd?
Can someone explain how the CAS should be installed so that I have the timing set correctly to start with?
This is on a cosmo engine with a TII ignition.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,793
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From: Southern California
Okay, I read this, but did not understand what the 3 tooth and 11 tooth meant. I have since figured out that the 11 tooth method lines up the little hole on the CAS. I will reset to 11 tooth. Once that is done, I will zero out my timing with the timing lock feature on the haltech? Can someone explain how this is done? Or what is the easiest way to do this?
The 3 v. 11 is only regarding the two different ways to insert the CAS. You'll arrive at the same ends either way...you should anyway. I always use the Mazda method.
1-Remove the cover on the CAS.
2-Align the dimple on the CAS drive gear with the tab on the CAS body.
3-Note the alignment of the teeth under the CAS cover (that you have removed).
4-Bring the pulley up to -5 BTDC. Refer to the Hitman illustration of the pulley or the FSM if you are unsure here.
5-Insert the CAS. Make sure that the teeth line up as they were before you inserted the CAS. Rotate the CAS body to align them if you have to.
6-Set Tooth Offset at 11 and Trigger Angle at 65.
7-Lock timing at -5 and run engine. Timing on L1 should be close to the -5 mark. Rotate CAS or adjust Trigger Angle to zero timing. Either accomplishes the same effect. If you have to make wild adjustments of either you've made a mistake and need to start over.
8-Once the timing is zeroed at idle rev the engine slightly (~3000 rpm) and make sure the timing doesn't waver. It can possibly move by a degree or two but it should not move a great deal. If it moves a great deal you most likely have something wrong in the Trigger Edge settings.
9-Unlock timing and tune.
BTW, I wasn't trying to be an *** when I asked for this to be stickied. Sorry if I came off that way. But these things do come up all the time and it would be nice for a mod to just sticky this stuff for reference.
1-Remove the cover on the CAS.
2-Align the dimple on the CAS drive gear with the tab on the CAS body.
3-Note the alignment of the teeth under the CAS cover (that you have removed).
4-Bring the pulley up to -5 BTDC. Refer to the Hitman illustration of the pulley or the FSM if you are unsure here.
5-Insert the CAS. Make sure that the teeth line up as they were before you inserted the CAS. Rotate the CAS body to align them if you have to.
6-Set Tooth Offset at 11 and Trigger Angle at 65.
7-Lock timing at -5 and run engine. Timing on L1 should be close to the -5 mark. Rotate CAS or adjust Trigger Angle to zero timing. Either accomplishes the same effect. If you have to make wild adjustments of either you've made a mistake and need to start over.
8-Once the timing is zeroed at idle rev the engine slightly (~3000 rpm) and make sure the timing doesn't waver. It can possibly move by a degree or two but it should not move a great deal. If it moves a great deal you most likely have something wrong in the Trigger Edge settings.
9-Unlock timing and tune.

BTW, I wasn't trying to be an *** when I asked for this to be stickied. Sorry if I came off that way. But these things do come up all the time and it would be nice for a mod to just sticky this stuff for reference.
Last edited by C. Ludwig; Jan 14, 2008 at 03:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Southern California
On to more pressing issues. It still won't start! I have no idea what I am doing wrong. I have fuel, I have spark. I have restabbed the CAS 20 times, it makes no difference. Anything I can try?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,793
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From: Southern California
I went back and checked the spark from the coil. the T1 bank is not firing. Is it possible for only one bank to burn out?
Or have I screwed up the wiring somewhere?
Or have I screwed up the wiring somewhere?
Could be the trailing is not wired up properly, or IGN toggle isn't setup properly thus its only firing one side of the trailing.
In reality though, it *should* run, or at least fire, on leading alone. But you should have all plugs firing.
In reality though, it *should* run, or at least fire, on leading alone. But you should have all plugs firing.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,793
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From: Southern California
Are there any other features in the e6k that would cause the one of the trailing plugs not to fire?
Are the plugs clean? Firing a new engine can be a vicious cycle of fouling plugs. If I am not sure I'm getting spark on a plug I'll install a fresh plug in the wire only (lay the plug on the inner fender to ground it) and crank the engine or plug up a spare CAS and crank it by hand. Pull the fuel pump fuse when doing this to prevent the engine from filling up with fuel. 
Like classic says, it probably should fire even if you're down on T1. Again, getting a fresh rebuild to fire for the first time can be a bitch. If the plugs are fuel fouled remove them and crank the engine to clear it. Install new plugs and try again. There are lots of threads on this subject.

Like classic says, it probably should fire even if you're down on T1. Again, getting a fresh rebuild to fire for the first time can be a bitch. If the plugs are fuel fouled remove them and crank the engine to clear it. Install new plugs and try again. There are lots of threads on this subject.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Are the plugs clean? Firing a new engine can be a vicious cycle of fouling plugs. If I am not sure I'm getting spark on a plug I'll install a fresh plug in the wire only (lay the plug on the inner fender to ground it) and crank the engine or plug up a spare CAS and crank it by hand. Pull the fuel pump fuse when doing this to prevent the engine from filling up with fuel. 
Like classic says, it probably should fire even if you're down on T1. Again, getting a fresh rebuild to fire for the first time can be a bitch. If the plugs are fuel fouled remove them and crank the engine to clear it. Install new plugs and try again. There are lots of threads on this subject.

Like classic says, it probably should fire even if you're down on T1. Again, getting a fresh rebuild to fire for the first time can be a bitch. If the plugs are fuel fouled remove them and crank the engine to clear it. Install new plugs and try again. There are lots of threads on this subject.

The coils were sparking, but it was a fairly weak spark. We grounded the coils, and that problem went away. The second mistake was all me. I had the injector plugs on backwards, doh.
Switched them out, and she fired right up. I zero'd out the timing as best I could and was able to drive it for a few miles. However, it started getting really hot so I had to bring it in. I am thinking that the belt on the waterpump is loose. I am going to tighten it up, and see if that fixes the problem.
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